Building a 20x20 fur shed on a concrete slab with 2x6 walls. I'm could use some help with framing the roof. I would like a vaulted ceiling so I can install a skinning machine and possibly a loft for storage. I've been looking online for some plans but not finding anything specific. Im in Northeast PA so not a lot of snow but occasional 12-20 in dump every few years.. Do I need some type of support beam, etc. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Whole ceiling vaulted or just one portion? Gable or hip? Full dimension of engineered?

Gable. Whole ceiling for now. Full dimension or engineered?? Not sure what you mean?

Why not pole frame, make it any interior height you want and use trusses?

I am not a builder or a great carpenter.. In my shop , I put a large beam, actually a hydro pole, a good stout one , across the width of it . 28 feet. It is not part of the building support, but could be, , sits in pole barn support beam. Has been used many times for , big bucks, machine lifting , you name it.. Your skinning machine might work into it. If you know someone in the utility field . or a logger they could likely fix you up. with something.. Good luck with your new building. old243

You will need a fairly steep pitch to make a usefull loft in a 20x20.
Be better off doing it with regular trusses and just make a spot for a winch between 2 of them.

Already in the process of framing the walls. One more to go which ill do tomorrow.

Stick or truss?

If stick simple span you're 2x10@16" on your ceiling joists. If loft up them to 2x12" or close up to @12 or both if planning to store weight. Also plan on a couple rows of bridging.

But I'm still pondering just how you're planning on bracing the roof over a clear span, particularly with possible snow load. A knee wall each side would probably be best.

20' is about maxed out on span.

For a raised ceiling portion, double a joist each side run a double on top of those inline with the knee wall, continue the knee wall on top of those. Joist across the rafters supported by the knee wall. Or at least that is what comes to mind. I would probably do this on one end so an end wall carries most of the load.

Beams.There are charts for beam requirements for different spans/loads.

This. Get a para lam 20’ long for a ridge and frame away. 11.5 or maybe 14”. Depends on your snow load and how steep the pitch. Steep pitch, metal roof equals very little snow load.
Put a cross beam at wall height rafter tails to rafter tails center of wall. Anchor it good and the walls will never spread - the peak won’t sag. Use that one cross beam to hang things, make it stout.

Osky

truss it tell the makers what your doing they will build them

Framers..... those are the folks that work with precious materials like gold smith's right ???

I would get parallel cord trusses. The beam thing is easy but the R value will be hard to pick up. Parallel cord trusses will be deep enough to stuff them with whatever or i would do blow in. When you get that 10” of snow and it rains for three days youll be happy. A beam/glue-lam sufficient enough to hold that load would be somewhere around 7”w and 12-16” deep from my experience here(actually a full time framer/carpenter).

All these things aside, i would do regualr trusses and incorporate storage in the collar ties. Unless you have a bull head to hang

i built a 16x20 2 story barn for under $800 with scrounged and mark down material. it doesn't cost hardly anything to go up an extra 4 ft of knee wall, or more, basically just a few extra joist's and floor deck. just leave some of the upper floor out for that vaulted ceiling.

Scissor trusses come to mind.

^^^^^^^^^^ This.

A 20 foot span is nothing. Have a truss plant engineer your trusses for a vaulted ceiling. That will give you some room for insulation.

I would build any loft as a free standing assembly and support it to the floor across the gable end of the building.

Increase your wall height to 10 or 12 feet and sheet ACROSS the joint. Don't break your sheeting at that hinge point.

I appreciate everyone's input. A lot of food for thought.

Could you vault the ceiling in the middle 1/3, and have joists on each end 1/3 for lofts? Using rafters/ridge board that is.