You might want to check the drive sprocket while you are changing the chain. Sometimes the sprocket gets damaged when the chain is thrown. The damage to your drive links was probably done by the sprocket when the chain was thrown.

I remove those chain catches, I cut a lot of huckleberry brush with my saw, I try to keep it pretty tight while doing this but still manage to throw the chain often. If I don't remove the chain catch some of the drivers will get messed up and I usually need to file at least a couple of them to get them to slide in the bar gain.

Sounds like you need an $89 Poulan, just kidding of course. Poulans are the worst for the chain flying off. I like to have 2 saws with me mostly in case I get hung. I keep one that is filed about 28 to 30 degrees for cutting bigger stuff. The other one at about 33 or 34 degrees for cutting small limbs. It won't grab those small limbs as bad.

They will still fly off occasionally. I put them back on fast, when the saw is new I take the screw adjustment off and throw it away and just loosen the two nuts and freely slide the bar back and put the chain on and pull the bar out and stick something in the slot on the bar and against the saw for leverage and tighten bolts. They don't slip, I've did it for years.

I know, any one that would use a cheap saw must be a little off so take that into consideration.

I have a 435 and it's as simple as you mentioned. Where a novice can get into trouble is having the chain brake in the wrong position and then taking to bar and chain off. It's hard to do but it can be done and then you're likely off to a dealer to have him reset the chain brake.

My suspicion on throwing a chain would be a bent or tweaked bar.

Lumberjack, it is simple once you know how to reset it. You got to take off the cover, bar and chain put the cover back on press on the cover then move the handle forward then pull back so the break realigns with the cover. Then take off the cover put the bar and chain back on. Everytime the chain was thrown the break had to be reset as stated above. I probably got a returned chain but that chain looked brand new.

Foxpaw I've ran a Poulan for a bit which was free to me. I hated that thing with a passion. Hard to start always flooded.

Posco, do you think the bar got messed up from the burrs on the chain? This was a new bar new chain new saw.

I own a tree service and run husqvarna and still, Adam alot of times with a blurred up chain you can put the chain back on really loose and run it for 30 secs and let the bar clean the burrs off the chain for ya. Once it starts riding on the bar smooth then tighten everything back up. Easier than having to file it

Look into the Holzfforma saws. Chinese copys of the old Stihls and Husquvarna. Plus they do Jonsred too. Neighbor bought one and really likes it.

It could of . Put the new chain on and see if there is a lot of slop side to side . Also check the sprocket on the end of the bar closely to see if has any damage . If there is a lot of slop side to side the defective chain opened up the grove the chain rides in and is going to cause you problems .

hmmm good tip RM trapper.
Yup I'm going to check the new chain the bar sprocket etc... later today

Are you sure the chain was engaged with the drive sprocket correctly when you first used it?

Yup. Chain moved normally after I put it on

My thought too, easy to mix up a .325 and a 3/8's pitch. Also check that the driver width's are correct.

The aluminum chain catch is sacrificial and much softer than the chain drive links are...the spinning drive sprocket is what damages your links when you throw a chain. For safety sake leave your chain catch on the saw and replace it when it's damaged.

^^^^^^
That makes sense.
It must just be coincidence that my links haven't seemed to get damaged after I took the chain catch off.

It could be that it (the chain) doesn't get quite as balled up under the clutch cover without the chain catch in place? I'm still advocating for keeping the chain catch on