I’ve only clean skinned a few,hopefully get better,but don’t do alot of beaver.didn’t want to hijack the other thread

So how long did it take you? Faster then skin and flesh? That does not look bad for a first one, good job. I sort of tried twice but old people have old ways.........jk

There is some scraping to do on that one after boarding,
A one handed scraper will remove most and a knife will get the rest.Scraping that skin after boarding wont take too much extra time or effort.
Clean skinning can be what I call "rough clean" which is very fast-as fast as rough skinning,then there is true clean skinning where the only scraping required after boarding is to remove the liquid grease.

Extremely sharp knife is key to fast and effortless clean skinning,and also learning the knife technique.
Best way to learn is directly from a cleanskinner.

never did board that one,gave that an another to my brother in law to make some mittens,said he wanted to try it.i was basically just trying it out didnt seem to go to bad,next time ill sharpen my knife better,and i screwed up the head which he didnt need anyhow was trying to cut the ears an eyes with my dexter,which i know better,. next time should look a little better.i dont know any clean skinners around me in fact im about the only one around here that does beaver at all

and someday ill make a trough,seems that guys on here says it makes it a little easier

That's one about half done. That's just about at the point where I flip it over and come in from the other side. You can't see it but that beaver is propped up in a trough.

OP, your knife isn't sharp enough. Get a system where you can get it razor sharp, then get a strope or even a smooth, knotless 2x4 or 2x2. I'm right handed, so when I'm stroping the knife, the last lick on the strope is made while drawing the knife back towards me. That causes the "wire" of the blade to face away from me. That will also cause the wire to face the carcass rather than the skin. You can then clean skin quite rapidly without as much worry of putting holes ib the leathet

Lately I have been using a Dickie extra hard smooth steel for touch ups, a ceramic for slightly more aggressive tune ups and a Dunn grit wheel for sharpening.