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Re: Conibear shy marsh beaver
[Re: trappertom222]
#8123749
04/17/24 10:00 PM
04/17/24 10:00 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 25,758 Georgia
warrior
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 25,758
Georgia
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Try a food lure with a foothold or snare for a change up scent. If you have the castor from the first beave put that on the bank with a foothold Woodchipper is my go to initial lure. I leave the castor in the bag on the first part of a job as I assume every beaver up here has seen a castor mound set before.
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Re: Conibear shy marsh beaver
[Re: Swamp Wolf]
#8123770
04/17/24 10:27 PM
04/17/24 10:27 PM
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 666 Lakes Region Indiana
loosanarrow
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 666
Lakes Region Indiana
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Deep channels to hide the 330s, use a dive stick.
Snares hung on trails blended well, gang set.
Footholds on drowners on pullout real and simulated, sac oil single drop. This^^^^ ...is my strategy too.....during winter months. But, during warm months (closed otter season) ...I leave the 330s at home and use snares very discretely on fresh beaver sign at crawlouts (not crossovers) that DON'T have any otter scat. A belly, hip, or tail snared otter is hard to release....safely. So, it's footholds only set for back foot only. Use no lures with castor. Use sac oil from single beaver. Set blind at crawlouts and dam breaks.The two sentences in bold are the way for me. As another tman member said in another recent post, a beaver has “no defense” against a big foothold blind set and well concealed. Study the shoreline carefully, figure out what where it is leaving the water and set the biggest foothold the law will allow back away from the bank in 10” deep water. All the rest will work sometimes, this will work all of time eventually. With exceptions. Had one a few years back that for real stopped coming to shore. It built islands of mud and lilly roots, and ate what it could find from the pond. I expect it would have started coming back to shore in the fall for trees, but I could not wait that long and solved the problem with a shotgun.
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Re: Conibear shy marsh beaver
[Re: Trapperman12]
#8124045
04/18/24 11:07 AM
04/18/24 11:07 AM
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,501 Idaho
bearcat2
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,501
Idaho
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It is real common for a pair to move in together, but usually they are relatively similar in size if they are a breeding pair. As stated above, blind set footholds with as little disturbance as possible. If he is already square shy, he may or may not be foothold shy. Normally I just bed my footholds solid for beaver and don't worry about covering them at all, but if I am dealing with a trap wise beaver I will use waterlogged leaves or whatever is available and looks natural to blend the trap. Pretend you are trying to trap an amphibious coyote and blend everything so you can't tell a trap is there... and then don't mess around when you check them, don't walk anywhere close to where you suspect a bank den might be, don't walk anywhere you absolutely don't have to, as a matter of fact. Try and check your sets from a distance if possible, and no more often than the law requires (sounds like you have a daily check requirement or I would recommend only checking every three days or so).
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Re: Conibear shy marsh beaver
[Re: Trapperman12]
#8126401
04/21/24 10:13 PM
04/21/24 10:13 PM
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 12,696 South Ga - Almost Florida
Swamp Wolf
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 12,696
South Ga - Almost Florida
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Tman12, The dam on your property is likely a secondary dam that the beavs aren't considering critical. Your neighbor probably has the primary dam. The beavs will return....more than likely during/after a high water event or a routine visit. Those cameras are a good tool. Be ready to move on em when they return.
Thank God For Your Blessings! Never Half-Arse Anything!
Resource Protection Service
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