Hey guys I thought id share this with ya.
This is a little info on how I stretch my rats.
First two pictures are just to give reference if you didn't pull the skirt of the rats down.
You'd have a 14" rat.




These next two pictures are showing the skirts of the rats pulled down.
Gained 1"




Here's just a couple pictures of the finished look.
Now days, the rats bellies are what are being utilized the most, hence the reason I stretch the belly side that way.





Mnratman

I know some guys that lost a ton of money the years we had good rat prices because they didn't pin those skirts down.

Wood Is the way to go.


But I think your shoulder area Is too wide on the form. Take 3/8ths of a inch off and you will gain another Inch or more In length. Making the shoulder width less Isn't even noticeable when that rat Is being graded.
You can't make a rat any bigger then It Is. But you can stretch it to where It benefits you when that rat Is being graded.

I use NAFA sized boards which some buyers feel are too narrow, so find buyers that do not dock you for those board sizes. I did not narrow up my boards, but I did run my 6-7 dozen boards of 3 sizes through a planner and took the board from 3/8 inch to 1/4 inch and that has gained me some size on about 1 out of every 3-4 rats, especially from the large to xl size or the xl to xxl. Big rats are big rats on almost any board. Pinning skirts is something I have been doing for many years. I also put a line for each size intended for year board about 1/4 to 3/8 inch past the sizes that are listed to account for shrink.

Bryce

Yep, that's a good idea Bryce, to plan them down a little! Most of mine are roughly 5/16" thick.
I have 3 different sizes also. S/M boards, L/xl boards, and 2xl/3xl boards.
Made by a guy in WI many moons ago.
Greg recommended him to me.
Mnratman

beav can you post a picture of your boards with the dimensions?

Wood or metal,,,,,this is the question

My question is why (unless it is you source of income) would anyone put up fur to get robbed.

Economics 101
Make them pay
Someday the middle man may thank us,,,,,not

ttt

X2

I don't do pics but I can type In some measurements.

NAFAs boards.

XL 51/2" at 7"
6 1/2" at 18"

ML 5"at 6"
6"at 16"

SM 41/2 at 5"

51/2" at 14"

The boards are 24" long and 3/8ths thick.


My boards.

XL 3 1/2" at 3"

4 3/4" at 6"

5 1/4" at 9"

6 " at 12"

6" at 15"

6 1/2" at 18"

My boards are 24" long and 1/4" thick.

I can stretch just about all my rats On a XL board. But I do have a few smaller boards for those grey backs.
The other thing I do Is I shove the belly board In from the mouth end. The head area when dried Is the tightest area so having the slimmest part of the belly board In the head area makes no sense. And the other thing Is that It's easier to pull out the belly board when It's sticking out In the open.

Wood boards for me for mall species, as they provide the ability to pin out a square butt and the tail as well as providing overall better consistency in shape and fur density thus giving a better overall appearance. Untreated boards also help in the drying of pelts by absorbing moisture from the hide. In between use the moisture evaporates from the boards.

the question is Who are you selling to? do they like wood stretched rats or wire stretched rats

Looks like a “top lot” put-up job there!

Thanks for the info Beav