I am finishing up the tanning of 5 coon. My hands will not take many more. I was thinking about an electric shaver today while I was working on them. I thought one would sure be nice... that was until I priced them. At least the one I thought I would be comfortable using, until I priced it... It was close to $900.00. That is almost what I get a month in Soc. Sec. The way shipping costs are, they probably want another hundred for shipping.

The one I was looking at is the Dakota IV. I watched a video and demo of it and looks like they do a great job... but out of the question.

I saw a smaller handheld, but it was pneumatic and I don't have a capable compressor. I am not sure how good of a job it would do anyway.

Oh well, I was curious as to how many had them, if they used them and liked them.

If I wasn't tanning the hides, I wouldn't have a need for one.

Take care,

Garry-

I have the handheld pneumatic mini flesher. I tan some hides and dabble in some home taxidermy from time to time so it helps a good bit. There is a learning curve to it as I have had to figure out after sewing some holes up here and there and you are correct you do need a decent air compressor to run it.

I had the Dakota IV when I started doing taxidermy, I have the Pro Model of the Dakota now. It definitely makes quick work of fleshing coons, beavers and badgers. I wouldn't trust myself to flesh anything else on it. Someone who runs one daily can make it do incredible things. I used it primarily for fleshing and thinning deer capes and hides.

The learning curve is very long, you can and will ruin a lot of skins to get proficient on a round knife. If you have an old, or cheap belt sander, put some 60-grit paper on it and secure it somehow so both hands are free. While the skin is damp from the pickle, before tanning, work the skin up against the belt, make sure the belt is cutting from tail to nose. Keep it moving so you don't heat up the skin. Something flat to cushion it between your hand and the skin will help make a more even cut.

Thanks guys....

Thank you, Keith, for the instructions using a belt sander. I think I have an old one packed away someplace, I will try and dig it out in the morning and go get some belts.

What will happen if you already have a pelt tanned and use a sander on them?

Garry-

I have a t handle curriers knife. It works great but is a whole lot like work. I no longer use it. After using it, the only part of me that didn't hurt was my hair.


Rickey

That would be called "buffing" it is one way to thin the thick spot plus clean up the rest.
You might have better luck with a side grinder with a Flap disc. 120 or finer is what I use most times. One can control the amount of heat you make in the hide. A belt sander makes it harder for me to keep the heat caused by the work low.
I use it outdoors. One can use a belt Sander indoors if you have a dust collector. Not a good idea if you don't have one.
This is done after tanning and stretching as much as possible. I only buff dry tanned hides.

Commercial tanneries use drum sanders that look to be custom made for them probably have dust collector systems.

I have a fleshing machine. Not a Dakota. Better machine. It does take practice for sure. I only use it on beaver, otter, coon and did one badger with it. Still use the flap disc to even them out and clean the up before sewing anything with them.

I have a Dakota. Don't remember the model. I got it back in the 90's. Just keep your fingers out of it.

I want to thank each and everyone that has added to my request for information. I may be old and unable to go very far afield, but I do what I can.

What I can do is learn to handle the critters we have all been catching for decades. Well, at least some of us. Others are just beginning this long-time honorable quest of harvesting what the Good Lord hath provided to us.

I have begun this new quest... Preparing the fruits of the harvest, so other may use them. It always seems like it is a static climb, when one tries to find the pieces of any puzzle, when they are scattered far and wide. There is so much information out there it is hard to know what is good, feasible or even possible. The problem is when one person has the funds or knowledge, it is hard for them to convey to others the entire picture. This is with everything and with most of us.

So, I have made it my quest to not only learn this process, but to learn it so I can convey, or show others how it can be accomplished, through perseverance, and with most of the pieces of the puzzle, and most of all where the pieces are and how they fit together. The biggest challenge is to put the pieces together, with limited funds and equipment. I want to be able to show others how to create an acceptable, finished product they can be proud of, and others find acceptable.

I have watched so many videos about tanning and preparing pelts, one would think I would know everything there is to know... Wrong! I am just a beginner and I have been at it for 5 years. Each year I learn something new that helps me improve the finished product. The problem has been all of the videos I have watched last for 30 minutes to maybe even an hour... but stop and think about it... An hour...? They show the highlights and leave out most of the nitty gritty details. The details are what gives you the best results.

So, if the good lord is willing... when I am comfortable with what I have learned, and can personally produce the product I want to produce... I am going to write the procedure and produce, with photos, so anyone with common sense and desire will be able to produce a quality finished tanned pelt.

Again... I want to thank everyone that has participated with their information. This is still open to any additional information anyone would like to add. Thank You.

Garry-

You need to have the skin thinned before you tan/dress it, so the solutions can penetrate and work properly. Sanding/buffing after the fact will help take off the high spots, but if the tan and oil did not penetrate properly all you are doing is thinning a stiff skin. It will get softer just by virtue of the fact that a thinner skin will bend easier.

You are a little under 2 hours from me, if you ever want to take a day trip and see all the different parts, and machines in the process feel free to come up, just get with me ahead of time.

Dang, wish I lived closer...I would load Garry up and we would BOTH learn some of your craft!

I don’t think you could ask for a better offer than what Keith just gave you.

Only a little over 10 hours to Kansas City, nothing to it!

Something you can also use to flesh skins is a wire wheel on a bench grinder. I have used one many times. Keep it moving so you don’t heat up the skin and beware on thin smaller hides it can and will snatch it out of your hands if not careful.