How many of yall do it. What lb test line and type are you using and what kinda knot. Thinking about using it versus the commercial bought trip wires. Love having the trip wire just thinking fishing line may work just as well and cheaper. This is strictly for mink trapping, I use Victor 110's and belisle 155s.

I flatten the last 1/4 inch of the triggers with a hammer
Then tie spider wire (fishing line) just above where I flattened the triggers
I tie a couple overhand knots and trim off the tag end
I then put a dot of gorilla glue on the knot

I do something similar. Flatten the ends then drill a tiny hole. Fireline from hole to hole.

Nice Bronzeback. I'm going to try that.
I've always just used very thin wire and cross twisted it to the trigger ends.

Fuel line tubing not bad option either. I find that either way you’ll be fixing it pretty regular

I also flatten the ends but I use floral wire

I used fishline, spider wire, ect for years and went back to floral wire. I make one end tight and twist the other end kind of loose. It can break off but I found that if I leave one end a little loosely wrapped it will slide off and I just have to twist it on again so I am not fighting broken wire all the time. I fight with fishline. My finger don't work like they used to...

Floral wire for me too.

I used spider wire with a double ferrule on the trigger ends to hold it. This was on 330's and 280's for otter. I did it one or two years and found it worked pretty good and did increase desirable catch locations (ie: neck and chest) but from time to time required untangling a head wrapped in wire or the wire broke. The maintenance kind of jaded me on it.

The whole technique of wire between the triggers is great.
I have never used this on beaver but always do on otter. It creates the illusion of 'open space' for them.
I use the technique on all my mink conibears. It increases your catch for sure.
You will need to snip & replace the wire sometimes with a mink or muskrat. Easy enough to do out on the line

I think you can see the mono held by silicon tubing. a loose belly catch loop, doesnt need to be taught, I'd rather it not be taught.

As Larry posted, I started using floral wire years ago at his suggestion and it works great. You can always just re-wrap it when it comes off one side of the trigger.

I use that light weight cooper wire.

Just reading this thread and got me wondering how electrical butt connectors would work for crimping on wire for triggers?

They would work.

So I came up with a little trapper ingenuity. It's 16 gauge braided stainless steel cable (amazon find) and 3/32 3:1 Heat shrink tube. Put it through some pretty rigorous testing and only way I've been able to get it loose or off is actually cutting it off with a knife!

Nice.