I am using MB 550 and they come with two swivels. I am reading that three swivels should be standard for coyote and Bobcat and some even advocate shock springs as well. What set up are you using? I target mainly Bobcat and some Coyote. I also use a super stake with cable that works very well with foot holds I use cable to tie off my snares to trees. I have never used drags because if they get onto adjoining land I do not have permission to pursue. I also do not use quick links as I feel they make it to easy for the trap to walk. Coming up on my fourth year of trapping with very little to show in regard to my target animals so looking to perfect my system. Thank you for any feedback.

2 swivels are OK. Shock springs are NOT necessary on a 24 hr check.....also in the way when bedding.

I use cabled earth anchors...pogos and fangs. I cut cable when I pull trap. I use quick links and tighten with pliers. If someone wants to steal your trap they will find a way...I've had a chain shot in two with a rifle.

Drags don’t work for me either.....BEARS.

Stay at it. Good trapping!!

I add another swivel as an added precaution but two will work. I use Super Stakes and agree with Swamp Wolf. If someone wants it bad enough, it's gone. I don't have time to chase drags.

I use the stock 550’s as they are. I use quick links and chain. I’ve used cable in the past, just use chain now. I’ve caught them in the 1.5 free traps from MTP when setting for a coon and a coyote checked it out. 550’s are fine as they are.

Law here states traps must be checked every 24 hours so I will forgo the shock springs. I to have cut the cables when pulling stakes but it does get expensive when buying them commercially. Hopefully will be able to make my own shortly out of pipe and nut. I just need a welding machine.

Bear destroyed one of my box traps.

yea they probably will steal the traps if they find them, especially when using visuals for Bobcat. Going to use survey tape this year and set out a lot of false leads. Plus I have three or four Dukes I will set in more exposed areas. Thanks guys. I think the way I am currently set up will be good. I have been watching a lot of videos and asking a lot of questions. Thanks for the feedback.

I’ve tried various methods of staking. Used duckbills for years and those worked but I always tried saving them and I couldn’t pull them in the colder temps. So I went back to double 24” rebar. I’ve tried the shock spring thing and I’ve tried without and I’ve found they don’t make much difference when checking every 24 hours. I’ve run the 550’s with the stock chain/swivel setup and haven’t had and issue but I do like a slightly longer chain then what is on the 550.

Traps that come with good quality chain like MB’s, no bs, and some bridgers all I do is cut the stock chain in half add crunch proof swivel and either a 18” chained wolf fang or super stake. Drags I like a good 10’ minimum length and quality num3 chain some of my drags have 15’ of chain on them. If I modified the trap the chain set up is swivel off the base - 3 links of num3 - swivel- 3 links of num3 - swivel - chained anchor.

Probably would not hurt to put a third swivel on chain. I think I have a bag full of the no crunch may stick a few on when I add the pan extenders.

I like chain super stakes because I don’t have the cable end sticking up. I use a stake puller and a digging bar to dig instead of a pick axe. Really saves on the back and can dig much faster. What I like to do if I can is use 10 foot 1/8 cable and loop it around the tree and then attach the trap. If a person tries to steal it they need a j hook tool to get it off. People will definitely steal stuff if they really want to but I feel like if you can stop people from just walking away with it you’ll stop most of them.

Just buy the cheapy stick welder from harbor freight will work for trapping

In winter,for footholds,when ground is frozen,a heavy clog on a long chain for big animals.For small animals a pole drag.They dont go far with either.Bodygrips are wired off,to a swivel installed at the trap.I like a swivel on bodygrips as some animals like fisher will spin when first caught.Although they die quick,you will need to change the wire more frequently if no swivel.
Snares are wired off to a live brush in good entanglement or if in open trail a high stake and kill pole nearby.
Only difference when snaring big animals is wire is not used as a tie off,just a support.Snares are cabled off with an extension to a solid tree.
Swivels not needed on lethal snare set up.
Swivels are a must on live holding snares,or any live holding device,other than a cage I guess.

I may do that but I will need a welder that will work on aluminum shortly. 80 foot Hickory fell on my Seanymph and did a lot of damage. Going to require some work.

I add a mid chain swivel to my traps as well as a JC shock spring. I like swivels. Shock springs are not necessary but I like them. They take a lot of pressure off the trap and stake.

Anyone use nails when setting their traps. Just watched a youtube video on them. Looked interesting if they work as described.

I use nails for constructing some sets but not to anchor traps.

No, I would not try to anchor with nails but they seem to add a bit more stability to stabilizing traps. At least they seemed to work well in videos. Seems to always be something new to learn about trapping. I appreciate everyone's willingness to share information.