It shoots factory rounds perfectly fine. Reloads jam pretty much everytime. There will be a occasional one that doesn't jam and will fire.

The few that have fired don't have flattened primers. Other than that idk any other ways to tell if it does or doesn't have too much pressure. And yes my press is caming over

What are you calling the lands?

Im going to try and make my length alittle longer and see if that helps at all

I would suggest a different powder....i tried imr 4198 and had the same problem your describing... tried RL15 and fixed the problem...Geuss what i'm saying is your powder maybe to fast of a burn. RL15 is a medium burn powder just like H4895.

It sounds like it is jamming before he fires, so different powder won't help. You want your overall length shorter, not longer if they are not chambering all the way. Something is catching if the bolt isn't going far enough forward to lock down. The "lands" are the beginning of the rifling, jamming into the lands is the bullet touching or being forced into the rifling by the bolt. Some target guys run their bolt actions this way for consistent accuracy, I've seen loads with too long an overall length where the bullet was jammed into the lands hard enough that it stuck there and pulled out of the case when you tried to eject it unfired. Not a good deal, and it can cause pressure spikes also. It could also be your shoulder hitting, or the brass back by the base if it isn't getting sized down enough. Try loading one without a primer or powder (dummy round) then take a marker and color it all. Then chamber it and if it doesn't chamber all the way try pressing on the bolt to get it to, then eject it and look for marks on it where you colored it. See if you can tell where it is hitting. If you know what is hanging up you can go from there.

Should I put a bullet in it for that or no?

I'm pretty sure it's hanging up on the main shell right as your shoulder starts to neck down. But I'll have to try coloring the bullet and see. I'm going to a truck show with my work today so it'll be late afternoon before I can check it

Aint nobody going to give you good advice till you figure out how to accurately describe your problem in detail.

One aspect that is being overlooked is his seating die may be screwed in to the point that it is roll crimping and buckling the case shoulder. Doesn't take much of a bulge to bugger it up. Back your seating die out a couple turns, without the seating stem. Then slowly screw it back in until you feel it start to touch a freshly sized and trimmed case. Once contact is made back the die off half a turn. You don't need any roll crimp, proper neck tension is enough. Worst case get a taper crimp die and follow the directions. The other scenario is you might have a bad set of dies. In 50+ years of reloading rifle and pistol ammo I have only seen one set of bogus dies. Just so happens it was a set of RCBS 223.

Do some reading on how to set up your dies properly, you might be doing something wrong.

Yes. I suspect it is the brass, either shoulder or base that is hanging up, but you want to load a bullet just like normal. Only difference being that you don't have any primer or propellant in it. That way if you are causing a bulge in the brass somewhere during the seating process or something it will show up.

I backed my seating die off alittle bit so it was as tight of a crimp. And they seem to be going in and out of the chamber now with no problem. I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet but hopefully it works! Crossing my fingers and praying that's what it was!

Wait.... Back off your seating due you just make your bullet longer.... I have no clue how a longer round would solve jamming issues....

Interesting

Backing the seat die out doesn't make the cartridge longer. It just reduces or eliminates the role crimp. Backing the seating stem out will make the cartridge longer. So when you back the die out you need to screw the seat plug in to keep the same OAL. I maintain the OP issue is the die is set too deep creating too much roll crimp which is causing the shoulder to buckle or bulge. You don't need no stinking roll crimp on a jacketed bullet unless you are running this ammo thru a FULL AUTO. Neck tension is enough for any AR I have or used. If one is really paranoid about it use a taper crimp die in a separate operation. I have seen this over crimping cause issues in pumps and bolt guns too. Read the directions!

Exactly.

That's why I recommended he read how to properly set up his dies.
I adjust my seater dies to crimp on my lever actions that are a tube magazine but all others I don't see the need to crimp.

I do find it interesting that folks that have just recently started reloading and glean most of their “knowledge” from you tube, always seem to offer their opinions on matters they don’t fully comprehend. I have looked at YouTube a few times and from what I’ve seen there are more idjits posting info, than people who actually know…. Reading an established manual and referring to it often is the way to learn, along with decades of first hand usage.. all this accomplished is to confuse and possibly endanger a fellow reloader. Reloading isn’t a game to play, it can and has killed and maimed many over the years.

Sounds like to me your over all length is to long. If you shoot it with the over all length to long and the bullet is jammed in to the lands that is creating huge pressure and is dangerous. I think you might try loading the over all length to what the book says