Spitballing an idea in my head, let's hear what you think.

Baseplate fully across the bottom and extending out both sides but the extensions are curled to meet the frame above the jaw tips, d-ring hung off the side.

Not sure what exactly it would solve but the thought came to me that it would stop any possible flex.

Really shouldn’t be any need to go up and around the jaw tips. As long as the ends of the new baseplate bend to match the curves of the existing baseplate. Though I suspect any bending in those corners is minimal and may not be worth the trouble. Most of the flex comes from the center of the existing base plate.

I have some that turn the corner, only thing I noted is they are harder to fix when run over.
Lot of guys notice main frame flex, few notice spring pin flex.

Please explain. By flex do you mean movement? I got some duke #4s with wandering pins. I have to knock them back into the groove when I set them, hence I rarely use them.

Certain models when tuning on the bench, press levers and see spring pin flex.
Takes force away from intended purpose. Over sprung traps especially.
I did not "discover" this on my own.
Many that have not noticed will now say it does not matter.

I see a need for four coiling,
I also see a bigger need NOT to with good mechanical designed traps.

I saw a fix for the wandering pin. A little P-clip like used for plumbing or wiring.

Just figured I'd reply. In older days we had some great topics on trap mechanics.

Sounds interesting.
If I'm understanding this right, I can see 1 problem which is debris getting caught between the tips and the extended base plate

The extensions unless kept short would probably need to be narrowed or even rod to clear the holes in the levers which may mitigate debris issues there.

That's really why I posted. I remember those threads and enjoyed them.

That I'm always tossing around ideas in my head how to improve the tools I use. I've got a really good trigger mechanism for cage traps that borrows from a couple cage designers I know. If and when I can get a prototype made I believe it could be easily applied to any size cage scaling up or down from squirrel to hog, single or double door, guillotine or slant.

I have a cage here made by a cabinet guy that needs a new trigger.
If we lived closer we could reinvent the trap lol.

Ideas have been swiped from forums, and many should have been.

Many levers on traps just barely clear the jaw tips if you could overcome that obstacle you'd have a good product for everyone but the live market folks who need center swiveling to be more gentle on the coyote's foot/leg. Also the top corners of the frames are often rounded so the levers will slide over them more easily. All in all I'd think you'd almost have to make a different model for nearly every trap style and some could change depending on where in the run the trap you have came from. If you wanted them for just your traps I think it could certainly be done but a nightmare to manufacture for sale.

Yeah I figured it would be a one off job for the DIY or custom fabricator.

That should work

I have some Bridger #3s that I love, super modified, they are tanks, the only things I would add to them is a spring pin keeper and beef up the pan post somehow. Other than that there isn’t a coyote that can touch them.

I’ll post a couple pics, I think you’ll like them warrior.

It has full baseplate, laminated jaws, four coiled, center swiveled. Then Took a rod and welded it to the jaw tip and up over the frame and welded to the jaw. Nothing is popping that jaw.

On top of that, welded another rod to the top of the dog, leaving just enough at the tip to file in a night latch. No coyote alive can bend that dog.



I’ve caught a few coyotes in them and they work really well. I did have a badger rip the four coil springs off, hence the need for a better spring keeper system but all in all extremely solid trap.

Another thing I’ve thought about is baseplating the cross frame as well. They seem to get bent up or down sometimes and mess up the pan height. Anyone tried that?

I've been baseplating the cross frame for years, I'd rather do that than the baseplate on the main frame. Keeps the pan oriented correctly and it gives an additional 1/4'' windup on the springs. No need to 4-coil. I use exclusively #1.65 bridgers for cats, it's small according to some, but I make full foot catches over 90% of the time. They are very highly modified, in addition to the cross baseplate.