Looking to poor a 27 by 44 slab 5 inch's Thick addition(pole building) it is attached to a 40 by 40 slab (pole building) that has in floor tubing heating system in it, if I remember right we removed out 7 inch's of gravel compacted it ,put down 2 inch pink foam insulation 4by 8 wire panels and attached tubing to that.
One Quote I received he wants to remove gravel and put in 6' of gravel and or sand base and compact, put a 6Mil vapor barrier under sab, 1/2 rebar every 24 inches on center
and put down 2 inch's of foam insulation I would place tubing. Price 8316.00 is that in ball park and what way do you do it. A side note I may run a Modine heater in it for awhile before I hook up a boiler would it be in my best interest to put a insulation bearer between slabs if so what kind
Thanks

that looks like 500 bucks a yard ....if that includes materials concrete and insulation.. rebar id say that is par going rate for flat work here is 300 for concrete and rebar. looks like 17 1/2 yards

You should buy or rent a tubing stapler for the heat tubing and staple it to the foam before the rebar is placed. Then it's not touching metal inside the slab or in the middle of the cracks. It's also faster to install this way.

I would bid that around 5800 go 3 foot rebar grid 4 ft is normal and I've never had a complaint plus the lesser grid the weaker the concrete will be ask him why 8300 the vapor poly is important he just seems high on price that could be area you live or he might be busy and throwing a bigger number out

One thing about the price usually you don’t put fiber with rebar but some do we just use fiber no bar or wire unless going vertical, make sure he didn’t bid the job with fiber and rebar.

Fiber is 8 more a yard so that's not much in the bid

The cost of 2 in 25 density is a dollar per sq ft …

So...I would screed your sand or gravel, put down your poly, then Styrofoam, lay your tubing, then, lay your 2' square grid of rebar on top to hold it down, and let him pour it at 8300 bucks, as it's only $5.20 a square foot, and comparable to what we would pour it for up here. I think I would get a little more if I supplied the foam too, say 6 to 6.50 per square foot.


2' on center rebar grid, 4" of concrete, equals $4.50 / square foot with no bells and whistles around here. You can add other materials and double that for labor from there if you would like, and add a floor drain if it's heated.

The purpose of fibermesh is to control plastic shrinkage cracks, it doesn't replace rebar or wire mesh.

Thanks for info I was told today I should figure 108 per yrd for just concrete, real like some ideas how I should insulate between slabs since it is unlikely that I wont heat the new slab next winter

108.00 is a very good price for mud. Up here I would not have anything poured, particularly outside, that wasn't a 6 bag, 6 air mix.
Good luck with what sounds like a great project.

Osky

I was looking into having a slab poured a while back and someone was telling me that rebar reinforcement isn't the way to go anymore. They found that the metal expands and contracts at different rates than the concrete and that's why all our bridges are failing. Once there's a crack water infiltrates to the metal and the rust causes even more cracking. Don't know how accurate that is, but it might be worth looking into to see if you really need the rebar.

Concrete goes down wet, dries hard. This I know. In all seriousness, concrete has a mind of its own and no two pours are ever the same. You can throw any binder you want in a pour but limiting cracks is a roll of the dice. Compaction, slump, initial mix, drainage, frost...

Poured a lot with nothing but fiber Crete will crack where it wants and I’ve abused the Crete with a loader and seen 80000 pound trucks bounce on to it doesn’t break it, the biggest thing is the base if its bad your Crete will be bad.

Yep.

Plastic shrinkage cracks happen in the first few days when the wet concrete looses 85% of it's water. After it's cured the cracks are from movement.

What you said is true but the mesh was made to stop large flat slabs from developing plastic shrinkage cracks. Not to replace rebar or wire mesh.

Agreed.

There is a product called Helix steel micro rebar. It's tiny twisted steel strands and that replaces rebar. I think it's about $40 a yard to compare to 2' on center 1/2" rebar. But if you've tied millions of rebar ties in your life like me it's something to consider lol.

We started using gator bar its much cheaper and lighter than rebar very good product

Makita makes an 18V rebar tying tool that works pretty slick. I haven’t used one but I’ve seen demos and it looks like it works pretty good.