video I found for the other vaccum line

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TyxtQbOXfZo

Sounds like the blend door. My 01 had issues till I swapped out the heater core (what a pain in the rear). I as well have ongoing issues with the vacum lines but after awhile one gets to be an expert on diagnosing the problem.
When I worked on mine last year I did the youtube searches and the blend door came up most of the time (mine was fine) and they did say make sure heater core was circulating properly as it could vapor lock on the refill.
When you do get it fixed it will roast you out. On mine I have to turn the temp down and fan on low or it will cook ya, even in minus degree weather.
Mine also takes awhile to warm up just due to being a diesel.

Just changed the hub bearing assembly on the driver side--THAT WAS FUN ! Can you say rusted on ! IF you do this buy the assemblies off amazon "detroit axle" as you can buy a pair for less than one from Autozone or O'Rielly's and free shipping. The axle nut is 1 11/16" or 43 mm.

Not trying to change the thread but when doing those bearings the first thing you need is a good torch.

I agree Bob. That is what it took to get it off.

I wont ever buy a Dodge again !No matter how you spin it .Had lots of trouble with my 03
Hemi , 178000 .Motors been Ok Transmission slow to shift , power steering ,Wheel bearings Brake calipers , door handles ,and the list goes on

Little trick getting them out.................

Back the two bottom bolts almost out, top one completely out, start it up and turn the steering wheel, which bumps the bolt head and loosens them right up.

I'm not sure if my actuator door is broken, could it have a leaf or something holding it slightly open?
I found video on changing actuator shaft that usually breaks, mine switches from hot to cold ok, but it seams maybe the door isn't closing all the way.

Hippie, I will try that on the passenger side in the near future....Makes sense.
Tactical I would say no but anything is possible. If they weren't so easy to get to it wouldn't be a big deal. I hate taking the whole dash down just to work on something.

I lowered the dash to Change heater core, I need to pull it back soon and check hose clamps, actuator door is accessible from under dash without moving it I think

I lowered the dash to Change heater core, I need to pull it back soon and check hose clamps, actuator door is accessible from under dash without moving it I think

That works if it breaks easy, they used a air chisel to get mine loose, anti seize makes things come apart much easier

Finally changed my throttle position sensor, 22$ , parts store wanted 260$!! Too much!

I’ve heard that some people have had probelms like that. I never have had with a dodge, others yes Chevy transfer case, and front end, ford was interior and motor.

A lot of drive train pieces were made by same company for Ford, Chevy, Dodge, seems usually no matter which brand you buy you usually get repairs, maybe depends on which day of week it was assembled mid week good, beginning or end of week not so good

I will agree with that.

Few years back I think 2-3 of the big three used new process transfer cases, I forget name of manual transmission, maybe it was new process too, Chevy and Dodge used that one

thanks for all the advice!!
wish I would of known about blend door when I changed the heater core could and would of done it all at once. any ways took dash off again, opened up cavity on passenger side of the transmission hump. everything looked fine to me. ( I am not a mechanic but every thing seemed fine) a friend came over to help and it was a pain. changed it anyways i dont like doing half a#$. its open to the part im going to change it. also burped the system again.
heat is better tho. way better. my problem now is it still isn't what it was when I bought the truck 2 years ago. I can handle it though. if it gets sub zero again and I'm not warm than off to the mechanic. i just dont trust mechanics. have had alot of bad deals with them.
Thank you all again I really appreciate it.

It seems my truck shifts smoother with the new throttle sensor, I don't seem to get backlash when kicking off cruise control now too, looks like 22$ sensor is working, they wanted 260$ for sensor at parts store

Tactical What was your truck doing to make you want to change the TPS.

At the rpm used the most the sensor lost contact, rpms drop instantly then bam back to normal, get above that and ran fine, when 0 degrees it worked good, 20 degrees it started doing it again, started last fall

Alot of posts on here. I didn't read them all.

Step 1 there are two hoses in the firewall engine compartment. When its heated up feel both hoses. If they both aren't hot you have a flow problem.

Step 2 if they are both hot then you can surmise that your new heater core is hot too. If you have good air blowing then its not the fan or a blockage in the vent / HC.

Step 3 if you are to step three then you have a door problem. Yes a leak may put the door in the wrong direction if its vac. See if you can find the door. Its most likely the one nearest the blower. See if its moving full travel from hot to cold.