I watched the NAFA tape and the guy expertly shaves off the neck starting right behind the ears down to front legs with sharp side of Necker knife. I am just learning and have no problem with everything except the necks/head area. I can push off most everything else with the dull side of knife but just cant get the sharp side work done. Some necks look jagged and rough, some look like I cut too deep, I cant get a good looking fleshed coon neck to save my hide.....please help with any advice

I'm with you on that Blackdog. I've fleshed six coon this year... I think after six more I'll have it down. Is your fleshing beam flat or does it have a curvature to it? I find it easiest to start cutting on the curved part of my board. I did catch a big old coon this year, 28 lbs. The grissle on his neck was impossible to deal with. Maybe others can offer more advise.

Use a sharp flesher, hold at an angle and shave it off the back of the neck. By shave I mean the blade is cutting the fat more than it is scraping it. By holding the blade at an angle it will cut the fat next to the skin.

Joe B nailed it. The key to getting that grissle off the neck is a good,very sharp knife.A sharp knife allows you to not push so hard that you don't control it well. I finally found a way to get my Necker sharp enough to shave with.The beaver have become much easier too.The tough stuff rolls off like county truck plowing snow.

How do you sharpen your necker?

Is it a firm, slow slicing motion similar to doing an ottters tail? Does it have to be sliced like that all the way to the front legs, or does it push after you get it started?

Yes. It is a firm slicing motion. But you only need to use the sharp edge in the neck and shoulder area and also the tail area on a beaver.The rest will push of fine with the dull edge.
I found that the Lansky sharpening system gets it razor sharp and unless the edge has been mistreated, it sharpens up quick and easy.I also made a jig for my Dremel to put a nice squared up edge on the dull side and that seems to help. Mine got dulled up pretty good from using it as a draw shave to make my beam fit the knife perfectly.That was a bunch of work,but the two fit each other exactly and that is what makes things go better also.

Start on the side next to the ear and work around. Like was said above it is easier to get it going on the curved side of your beam.....

It really makes your coon shine when done right......

Be carefull cause you can do damage when first getting the feel.

score the head behind the ears with a knife to start. easier to get your fleshing tool started then to remove.

I have found scoring it to start with a knife helps but my smooth slices are not too smooth. I kind of skip around knicking up the neck and try to push as hard as I can with my dull side then - seems I cut too deep if I slice with the sharp side. I end up with a coon that looks smooth as silk from the neck down but a rough neck. When it dries it doesnt look too bad, but I am sure it could be better.

the more coon you do, the better you will be. the way it sounds your coon are not that bad now. i have seen a lot of terrible coon put up. sounds like you have the desire to put out quality, it will come with more practice.

Floyd -

What angle hole are you using on your Lansky? I just got one but am not shure which angle to put on, since the Necker is beveled one side only.

Thanks,
Ed

I use the 25 degree angle.If you look at the back side, you will see that there is a small part of the blade that is sharpened.It does not have as big of a shoulder as the other side does. It is important to get this side also. It won't take much, but it will finish off the blade with a real clean edge.Take your time when using the stones. I started with the course one on mine and slowly worked to the finer ones.The ultra fine stone finishes it off very nice.Keep the stones oiled. This is what carries the metal and grit away.Make sure you get all the grinding marks out from the previous stone before you move onto the next stone.