Have any of you had a chance to compare different rabbit traps? This is one of those years when rabbits need to be thinned out or completely removed.

I've had decent luck with the 9x9 two door Tomahawk and other two door cages. Comstocks are kind of iffy. Rabbits are wimps and don't really care to go through the wires.

I have my doubts about the WCS wooden trap as well, but if you guys say so, we'll give it a try.

I got started catching rabbitts out of gardens close to home several years ago always made my own out of wood worked great problem was you couldnt see a skunk until you opened the door.LOL!!!!

Paul I've actually had good luck with Comstocks and drift fencing. And before we had the mighty C-Stocks the 9x9 DD Tom's worked fine.

The WCS wooden trap looks exactly like the traps we built in my wildlife biology class 40 years ago. They were cheap, easy to build, and worked great on cottontails in Michigan. The only improvement I would suggest is to stake them down so they can't easily be knocked over. The doors are held closed by gravity, so if something knocks the trap over, the bunny gets loose. Also, if there are weasels or mink in the area they can take a rabbit out of the trap.

As per Dave, I've caught lots of them in Comstock traps with drift fencing.

Okay guys, here's the deal. You guys have apparently got those muscular cottontails that show up in the movies and expensive ads, while I tend to have those somewhat gay wabbits that usually only show up in San Francisco.

Yesterday I switched out two of the Comstocks that had obviously been eaten at from both sides, for two 9x9 Tomahawks. Today both of those cages had wascally wabbits.

Here's a question for you. Rabbits have good sized and reasonably strong teeth, right? So how come I've never been bitten by a wabbit? ( I did have one put some reasonably bloody gashes in my arm with his hind legs, but that was because I'm a moron )

Paul I thought of you this morning while running my snareline,I had one in a fox snare not what I wanted but itll make a good supper. so I guess you could also use snares.LOL!!!! or maybe I just make mine to fast at closing? anyway thought Id throw that out at ya incase you get a tough one.HAHAHAHAHA!!!!

I too have caught rabbits in the 9x11 size from 18 to 30 inches long, as small as a fist. Set trigs light, grease the contact if you need to, do some forcing if necessary or extend the trigger wires. Sometimes little things make the difference for lightweights like rabbits. I usually like a trail set too. Seems like I end up with rabbits by accident at times when doing chucks. If the bottom of the traps are covered with dirt and or straw or grass, the wires blend pretty well.

Jim, thanks to PMs from this site, I'm way ahead of you. I have gotten a lot of very helpful information on how to make my Comstocks more presentable to our very delicate cottontails that I seem to encountering.

On the bright side, I know of very successful companies in the northern tier of states that won't even take cottontail rabbit jobs because they can't make a profit.

I just use double door colony traps at den sites

Vinke, our cottontails can sometimes be chased into holes, but they never den. Even when giving birth, they just cut a well camouflaged hole in your front lawn and come back at night to nurse. I drove over one a dozen times with my riding mower and never knew it was there until everyone was raised and were gone.

Thanks for the area lesson,,,,Two questions on the mower

did the lawn ever grow back
after the blades rototiller for you?
and did you fall off the mower?.........

Vinke, I would love to watch how Mrs. Cottontail does that. She makes a slit in the lawn and then somehow scoops out and carries away the dirt and leaves a very well hidden, large softball sized hole. She then rips out some fur for the bottom and it's just big enough for the babies and probably most of her body.

She leaves enough sod, apparently, that the grass never dies. I always find the holes after the litter has left because even rabbit children do not leave things the way they find it. I have yet to see the female visit the hole during daylight hours.

I also think that John Deere must have had me in mind when they designed my lawn tractor. Every time I fall off, the engine conks out and the blades quit turning. That sure beats having to chase it around the lawn like that team of horses I used to use for mowing.

Have heard others say the same about rabbits at times, not easy. Sometimes I have had to wait with a trail set, but at least the homeowner was checking and it time they produced so I still had only a set and removal. Some guys say they don't have bait that worked, but I have caught them on good old apples in a single door cage before I went pretty much to all double door traps, positive den sets and trails.

Well Jim, that certainly didn't take long. I grabbed one of your 30 inch 8x10 traps yesterday, made a positive set and went and picked up the rabbit today.

I just finished reading your January post on live trapping rabbits, sorry for the late response, I've had a lot of success trapping rabbits in Minnesota
and thought I might offer a few suggestions. First off: all my live traps are 1079 victors, I'm a fur trapper not an ADC guy, and I'm content with
the quality of the older 1079's. Having a trap that smells like rabbits is a great help, and explains why the guys who use wooden traps do so
well by them. That said, my 1079's work really well once they've caught an animal. After I've sifted snow over the wire floor, and insured that the
treadle will fall freely, I throw rabbit droppings in the trap, on those which haven't caught an animal. Traps which are set next to cover out produce
others, I like to take advantage of discarded christmas trees. The rabbits in my area respond very positively to the cuttings I produce when pruning my
apple tree. A pile next to your trap is a huge asset. As for bait: I like thinly sliced apples, and bread crusts in winter. I rarely go a night without
catching a rabbit, they're easy.