I am finding that the most common place for raccoons to break into a soffit or attic is were two roof lines meet.The raccoons are able get go to these corners and force their way in. The tracking that holds the soffit in place will no longer be nailed on, usually bent, and the soffit bowed up enough to allow entry .
I have not been able to come up with a good working repair for these areas. There is almost no room to work in these tight locations.
Any help will be appreciated.

thanks Bob

Bring it out to where you can work on it! Box it
In and wrap it with coil stock, use whatever color
Matches the soffit! I just use treated plywood for the
Box! I usually screw the coil stock down with pole barn
Screws that match color!

Stuff the hole with 1/2 hardware cloth..lots of it....liquid nail...then foam that sucker shut with todal pur black foam..

Like kasey said. Don't just fix the hole, block it off further out so the coons can't access that area again

Box it , like casy said its the best way to do them , learn how to do a good looking job bending the coil stock and the repair looks and functions great , or just do like all the big guys do here and screw a bunch of 1x1 wire mesh with fender washers and call it good

Thanks for the help. Boxing it in is good advice.
There is not much solid to work with other than the fascia. I am reluctant to screw anything into the roof.Do you use liquid nail on top of the shingles to secure the frame work ?

thanks bob

So, you're the one to blame for that... Nice...

I do a lot of boxing on those dormer/roofline transition corners, but have also came up with another method that has been working very well for a few years now. After straightening or replacing the last soffit panel (damaged by animal for entry), secure the channel again all the way to the corner, re-installing soffit panels.

Now, back up about 6 to 8 feet and remove a couple soffit panels (pull fascia trims loose first or bend open). Use a couple 1x8's (or sizes as needed) to get the correct width of the soffit (internal cavity width). Cut them about 5 or 6 feet long. I also sometimes cut a single piece using 1/2 or 3/4 plywood.

Shorter boards (3 to 4 feet) work for steeper roofs, gradual roof angles require longer boards. Slide the boards into the opening you created when you removed the panels. Position the boards (or board if single) all the way to the roofline INSIDE the soffit cavity. Secure the internal boards using 1.25 deck screws (or similar). Run the screws up through the soffit panels right into the boards.

This locks the boards to the soffits, creating the same result as a large, heavy soffit panel. I also use a bunch of small self-tappers and screw them up through the soffit channels into the soffit edges. The soffit area from the roof back to the ends of the internal boards effectively becomes a giant panel that raccoons are not able to pry or tear open.

No cosmetic change to the structure other than the screw heads, which only YOU will ever see. I often use a drill attachment (90 degree) to install the screws where the space is limited near the deepest section of the corner. The first screws are easy to start at the far (outermost) end, as you can put your hand/arm inside the soffit cavity through the hole you put the boards through.

Once you get a couple screws in place, the boards will become rigid enough to simply add screws towards the corner without holding the top/inside. I'm not going to tell you to be careful when installing the screws with your hand in there.... but if you see blood, it's not my fault.

EDIT: You can also use 2x4's and get a similar result, just place them towards the outer and inner edges of the soffit panels. I prefer the wider inserts as using 2x4's doesn't provide a solid feel due to the gap between the boards. May allow coons to bend the panel right at the corner.

I use the 1/2 plywood method like Ron mentioned. Most of the customers want us to do this to ALL of the vulnerable entry points not just the one that the raccoon used. Have one next week with 12 of these points we have to reinforce.

Thanks Ron . Your method is about as good as I could hope for. ( I would never thought of it myself ).
Your experience will save me from myself, and a few half arse experiments that I would have tried.
Being able to freely obtain competent advice from some one who has been there done that makes my day.

thanks again Bob

X2, Thanks Ron! That's way easier than I have been making it on myself.

Yes, I would be the one to blame for that. I seal the hole. I'm not a handyman and nor do I advertise as being one. But I do have one that I gladly refer work to that is cosmetic and needs a higher skill level than I can provide.

Go in from the inside glue and screw 3/4 ply-W . Go back out replace soffit . Done deal 30 min start to finish looks like new

Pesky I am not certain that I understand your repair. I expect what you mean ,is to access the soffit from inside the attic. The sloping roof line prevents this (no room on the inside)

thanks for the help.

So there profile overhangs which means they run on the same angle as the roof pitch . Those are harder for sure . I would bend sheet metal and paint it to match run soffit back over it . Inject it full of foam as well to stop that urine Oder from cause the coon to work it again . Coon will even chew off a chimney cap if they really want in . Coon will just keep working for hours . Injecting it stops Oder and having that big glue glob behind your fix locks things in and can't be seen from the outside