i'm looking for pics of a 110 support. i can weld and would like to see some designs. i think maybe i need a better support then a sapling through the spring. any help would be great, thanks.

Here are two styles for your reference:





Jonathan

I use the double bar type like that too Jonathan.

Here's an RBG 110 on a lefler type stabilizer...


And NW 110 on a stakalizer type stabilizer...


They all work about the same for me, and not at all in cement culverts. LOL

~ADC~

lol@ADC .... i have a few tricks for those concrete thingies ... lol

I really only have one Gary where I don't use a foothold and years ago there was a crack in just the right spot for the holder, It's still in there I could never pull it out, I guess the ground shifted, anyway I just put the trap in the holder, year after year. Get at least one mink/season in it.

KB stabilizers would work but I'm too cheap to buy them. I got a few RR tie plates I thought of welding a bracket on.

What ideas you got? Or are they trade secrets?

man if i shared em with ya id have to use ya as a drownin weight ... and from what i understand ... i would prolly have to leave ya as i couldnt pull ya back out !!! lol

You got that right! LOL I'll pick your brain at the NTA, unless your too good to talk to me there like SP was you. LMAO!!!

lol .... now he is gonna be MAD !!! he seems like a great guy .... wish he could make it up north ... anyhow ... would love to sit and talk trappin with ya ... so i could learn ... ya well above my level as far as trappin is concerned ... i can tell

LOL, yea right, you likely learned more trapping with Charles in an hour than I'll ever know. Of course at your age maybe you forgot it by now. LOL

i have no doubt that HE knew more than i will know multiplied by 50 ... by the time i pass .... and yes i have forgotten alot at my old age ....:( ... lol .... but i still member things that he taught me ... and things that happened while with him .... but its funny .... i member more bout what kind of man he was ... his posture, hand gestures, looks (when diff things happened), etc more than anything else ... he was god-like to me then ...and still is .... i just couldnt get enuff of his writings, discussions, etc .... a true genious !! .... but the biggest trappin tip i think that he gave me ... that REALLY stuck and burned into my head is .... THINK !!! he would stress that all the time ... and thats why im passin that on to others now .... it doesnt matter what ya read, are taught, or shown .... its not gonna work in every situation ya come to .... learn ya animals and THINK like they do

See you already know all the important stuff.

~ADC~

well thanx .... i try ...... lol

I make all kinds of deep & shallow coni stabilizers most out of 1/4" round but here's another way to stabilize a 110 ... this might interest you and others

It's done using zip ties and bamboo poles (I'm sure wooden stakes/poles could be substituted)

The zip tie goes through one spring eye and through the end spring around the pole. Multiple catches are made without having to replace them.

This method works really good! Way better than any ol sapling you've been using. And under certain circumstances better than the "H" type stabilizers. But I do build and use the "H" type for all my 220's through 660's.

I pre rig'em and they go in quick.

This is another wooden stake option comparable to Skinner's method, using plaster lath. I use these exclusively on my #110's for muskrats in cattail marshes. With older, full dimension lath through the spring coil, the trap's elevation on the stake can be adjusted accordingly without tying it down. Someone, in a previous discussion of this topic, mentioned that if you have a table saw, you can rip a standard 2"X2" (to a desired thickness) that will yield a width for a snug fit. By kinking the spring down on the stake, it securely locks itself to the stake.

The "newer" lath is not wide enough to do this with without wedging it in place with something. I use a clothes pin at times, or simply stuff some of the chain and it's ring to lock it in place. One member here uses wooden, door jamb wedges to accomplish the same thing.

Don't giggle too much at the shape of these genuine #110 Conibears. They are almost as old as I am - started buying them in the 1950's before the round-cornered ones showed up.

The following photos are self explanatory to illustrate my option:







Jonathan

thanks for all the pics. the wheels are turning now. looks like for the 110's 3/16 round should be right. 1/4 looks too heavy. the bamboo suport is so easy, might have to try that one also.

UB all mine are 1/4" rod. Its not too big IMO. Probably last forever too.

~ADC~

possum skinner I like your method. Thanks