So you really weren't asking about staking, you are asking about stabilizers. LOL.
I personally use a similar setup to the Lathe board, but I am thinking of using spikes in the bottom rivet for some next year. Just to see. Maybe a dozen or two to start with.

It is easy to use a table saw to rip down old scrap 2x and make your own lathe. It is the perfect dimension. That is what I like for long stabilizers, and up here I have little use for short ones. I do like the carriage bolt thing though.

I must say, that I set conibears all the time with that "wrong" orientation and it has never given me any trouble. Even when setting on lather or sticks, I often bend the conibear all the way down so it is tight against the stick. The closing on the sides thing doesn't matter a whit in a submerged set for muskrat/mink. I try to avoid it on dry land, but don't worry too much about it.

Clark,
It's into the ground and use a rock between the jaws to keep it from swiveling. It works well with a bottom edge set also. Just use a rock or a stick to keep from swiveling. This way you won't have the bottom of the trap too far into the mud or the bottom. Hope this helps!

Soft steel bends easily without heat.
The nuts used to attatch the rod can be use to add tension to make the trap not rotate.