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Input on slots/stabilizing conibears in mailboxes #1611509
11/23/09 07:03 PM
11/23/09 07:03 PM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,755
Nevada
thrstyunderwater Offline OP
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thrstyunderwater  Offline OP
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Posts: 2,755
Nevada
I'm going to be running 160's in some mailboxes I just got in. These are going to be attached to logs or fenceposts anywhere from 45-90 degrees from the ground. How do people recommend cutting the slots for the springs in the mailboxes? Also how do you stabilize a conibear in them. I know that you can either insert a screw behind each spring and attach wire to both or run a piece of wire around the box that's attached to each spring. Let me know what works for you!


Originally Posted by Ole Hawkeye
Pat, as usual, you are right....

Re: Input on slots/stabilizing conibears in mailboxes [Re: thrstyunderwater] #1611618
11/23/09 07:47 PM
11/23/09 07:47 PM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 327
Maine
reggiejr Offline
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Posts: 327
Maine
I cut the slots in mine with a die grinder.the #160 fits right in and just crank the springs down and your good to go.the victors,dukes seem to be the best fit for the boxes I use.basically take one box and cut a little here and there until your happy with the fit and use that box to mark the others by holding them side by side and trace the slot.trap is very solid in this box.this is a Bridger in the pic which is slightly bigger and it just tilts the top of trap forward a little.

Re: Input on slots/stabilizing conibears in mailboxes [Re: reggiejr] #1611625
11/23/09 07:51 PM
11/23/09 07:51 PM
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Nevada
thrstyunderwater Offline OP
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thrstyunderwater  Offline OP
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So that trap is there entirely from spring tension on the sides?


Originally Posted by Ole Hawkeye
Pat, as usual, you are right....

Re: Input on slots/stabilizing conibears in mailboxes [Re: thrstyunderwater] #1611648
11/23/09 08:03 PM
11/23/09 08:03 PM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 327
Maine
reggiejr Offline
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reggiejr  Offline
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Maine
yes,if you take your time cutting they fit in very solid.Ive even used them totally vertical like this before with no brackets just trap springs.these boxes have a flare that comes out wider before the mouth of the box the spring seats in right at that bend of the flare.dont crank the springs up tho because if the animal climbs on the box it can knock the the trap out if it steps on the spring.

Re: Input on slots/stabilizing conibears in mailboxes [Re: reggiejr] #1612176
11/23/09 10:33 PM
11/23/09 10:33 PM
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thrstyunderwater Offline OP
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thrstyunderwater  Offline OP
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Anybody else have anything. I need these things to be super solid for a couple of reasons.


Originally Posted by Ole Hawkeye
Pat, as usual, you are right....

Re: Input on slots/stabilizing conibears in mailboxes [Re: thrstyunderwater] #1612220
11/23/09 10:48 PM
11/23/09 10:48 PM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 336
Idaho
ID Trapper Offline
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ID Trapper  Offline
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Posts: 336
Idaho
You tryin' to catch a mailman?



Re: Input on slots/stabilizing conibears in mailboxes [Re: thrstyunderwater] #1612223
11/23/09 10:50 PM
11/23/09 10:50 PM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 35,183
McGrath, AK
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white17 Offline

"General (Mr.Sunshine) Washington"
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McGrath, AK
Why cut the box at all? The few body grips I use are vertical. I use a small stick or a piece of 1/2" I.D plastic pipe with a small hole in it. One nail holds the pipe or stick to the tree and the trap jaws clamp down solid on the pipe/stick. Just wire the box where you want it, relative to the trap. This is with 120's.


Mean As Nails
Re: Input on slots/stabilizing conibears in mailboxes [Re: white17] #1612262
11/23/09 11:01 PM
11/23/09 11:01 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 508
SE. Minnesota
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Flesher Offline
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SE. Minnesota
We use a router table to cut the slots on our marten box's. We use fencing and an end stop, to run them thru so they are all the same. Seems to work for us.

Re: Input on slots/stabilizing conibears in mailboxes [Re: white17] #1612568
11/24/09 01:36 AM
11/24/09 01:36 AM
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thrstyunderwater Offline OP
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thrstyunderwater  Offline OP
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Originally Posted By: white17
Why cut the box at all? The few body grips I use are vertical. I use a small stick or a piece of 1/2" I.D plastic pipe with a small hole in it. One nail holds the pipe or stick to the tree and the trap jaws clamp down solid on the pipe/stick. Just wire the box where you want it, relative to the trap. This is with 120's.


Originally Posted By: Flesher
We use a router table to cut the slots on our marten box's. We use fencing and an end stop, to run them thru so they are all the same. Seems to work for us.


Either of you have pictures?

Last edited by thrstyunderwater; 11/24/09 01:36 AM.

Originally Posted by Ole Hawkeye
Pat, as usual, you are right....

Re: Input on slots/stabilizing conibears in mailboxes [Re: thrstyunderwater] #1613007
11/24/09 11:01 AM
11/24/09 11:01 AM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,827
Alaska, USA
Top Jimmy Offline
"Assistant Speling Zcar"
Top Jimmy  Offline
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Alaska, USA
Thirsty,

I do the same as reggiejr, cut them out and just fold the springs down. They clamp down real good and hold it solid. If you check the Wilderness arcives, there are several other options in the Marten thred that you can try as well.

-TJ


Some people are like slinkies - not really good for anything, but they bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.

Re: Input on slots/stabilizing conibears in mailboxes [Re: Top Jimmy] #1613548
11/24/09 03:24 PM
11/24/09 03:24 PM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,755
Nevada
thrstyunderwater Offline OP
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thrstyunderwater  Offline OP
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Thanks for all the advice, I'll be sure to get on the archives. I still want some pictures though guys.....


Originally Posted by Ole Hawkeye
Pat, as usual, you are right....

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