We've had a drought the past couple years. The result is very low water in our channel at the lake. Beaver moved in, so I had to take them out. 330s would be difficult to work as the water near the bank was only about 5 inches. There was about 3 feet of water out about 5 feet or so. I opted to go with CDRs on 8 foot drowning rods. I used 2inch poplar pieces I had cut in my woods for bait. The first night the bait disappeared and the trap was never sprung. I couldn't believe it! So, I drove a couple stakes in the ground at the water's edge the next day and wired the poplar to the stakes with the idea that if the beaver had to work hard to get the bait, it would step in the trap eventually. It worked two days in a row.

Some of you more experienced trappers may have tried this already. But, for those who haven't, its a solution for the problem.

Low water has been making things tough for me too. I just set yesterday and finding enough water for a 330 to be legal or enough to drown them with a #5 has been a challenge. I am toying with a new drowner system that so far has worked pretty well in shallow water and doesn't require near as much weight to drown them.

Welcome to my world. Unless it's a subdivision pond all of mine are little ditch creeks.

At least we don't have snakes!

I really ain't got none to be worried about. I'm at the fringe range of moccasins. None to the north of me, none here. Got to look long and hard on the west end of the county for one. Got to go south to get into good moccasin water.

Call me crazy but I miss the things. Grew up with them around it's kind of nice seeing them like an old friend.

When you first set it up.... did you shove that poplar stick into the waters edge pretty good ?

Floating 330 sets? Or live catch them?? Or 15/20 foot of cable to get them to deep water?

Fiberglass shines for shallow water as you can put a pretty good bend in it when you find the occasional thigh deep hole. The issue though is anchoring the top with one bent into a quarter circle. That much flex wants to pop the top stake.

I've had more than a few where the lock had to go uphill before going down the rod.

Dug a trench under many 330’s this Spring with the low water. . Adapt and conquer !

Yep, leg holds with #5's is my answer when that is the situation.

Truth

Not really because the sticks were about 2 inches in diameter. I scraped some of the bark off to give it a visual effect. After I wired the poplar to the stakes, the poplar were pretty tough to move without some wrangling.

My experience has been that the top stake is usually up a little which seems to force the beaver to go down the rod better. I think they pull it up some when they first get caught.

I had one in a Bridger #5 today sitting on the shoulder of the road. I guess the water wasn't as deep as I thought and he drug the weights up the bank and almost to the shoulder of the road. With a 10 foot chain drowner they make quite a catch circle.

Was that with your test drowning system using less weight?

I love a long chain a t stake and a 5 or larger trap,,,,,

I am playing with a "light weight" at the end of a chai drowner with an extension cable across the creek to another anchor. So far it has worked great. This beaver wasn't caught in such a set up.

them big brauns make great "light" weights,,,,,,,

If conditions allow the digging of a trench, it's worked for me. Submerge #330 and add thick dive stick above. If it's really shallow prior to your trench, additional dive sticks on either side a couple feet from center dive stick gets the beaver thinking about staying submerged. Doesn't have to be elaborate.

Also, #330 on KB stabilizer allows it to kick out of the run most of the time prior to expiring.

Dive poles work pretty well if you have a 330 shy beaver, especially if the water's a little murky. In clear water you can camouflage the edges of the trap. I've had success doing that sometimes.