I want to night latch some new traps that I have. Couple of questions on the process.

tighten dog
level pan (by bending dog holder)
square up dog with file and then file 30 degree angle from bottom
file night latch in pan notch
re-level pan

Would this be the right order for the above?

Does it matter if I do this before I dye/wax? Or should I do it afterwards?

Thanks,
Keith

Bout right Keith, once you have your latch cut you will still have a little adjustment left to do. I dye and wax afterwards, just take your knife or similar to remove wax from end of dog and pan notch as you set the trap.

I have been working on night-latching a bunch of traps too. I do all the work on the pan with it in a vice and then put it on the trap. It may then take a little more fine tuning of the night-latch.

I do everything before I dye and wax, with the exception of setting the pan tension.

Last year, I couldn't figure I had any need for a night latch. I can see alright and darkness isn't a problem. Trouble turned out to be that I made them so hair trigger, the frost fired a bunch of them on me.

3Bridger, A little more pan tension should fix that for you. I want a "hair" trigger but with more pressure needed to fire the trap.

Last year, I set my #2s with just under 2 pounds and my #3s just under 3 pounds. I had probably a half dozen traps fire without moving from their spot in the trap bed. I think the ground froze just enough to set them off.

What kind of file does everyone use to night-latch their traps. Where can you buy them?

I'd say a dremel tool with a small grinding disk.

I just use a small hand file (square one).

I use a 6 inch flat file. It fits in the dog groove most of the time. The flat file gives you good clean grooves and nice square dog ends. IMO.............

3Bridger, I bed my traps almost totally with peat moss, that may make a diff. I know that before I began to put some pan tension on them I too had some of those problems. But I also started using peat about that time.

may i ask why you would want to nightlatch your traps?


i personally think its pointless

Derek, there isn`t any pan creep! Crisp fire, snap,bang ,boom! Any questions?

Ditto what Keystone said.

I add some pan fall to my nightlatching. Just file the notch in abit more and you can adjust how much pan drop, if any, you desire.

Derek...it is somewhat of a novelty thing but it assures you the same trigger action everytime. I like it on my water traps as its easier to get the same pan position with big/goofy gauntletts on.

This is the best picture i could get on my camera of the nightlatch I prefer with a stock dog on a #2 bridger. Reasons I like to nightlatch. Animal puts full weight on trap pan, just like stepping on surrounding area, pan only has to fall 1/16", trap fires, foot pushes pan to bottom of trap = good pad catch. Traps are pre-adjusted prior to season for pan level and pan tension. Whether you set day or night, you know when you click, your good. Almost zero pan travel or creep needed to fire the trap. I know there are some people on here that don't see the need to night-latch, and thats fine by me. This is only why I like to do it. For some of you guys that don't nightlatch, do you think there are disadvantages in nightlatching, or just don't think its worth the time? I have heard all the why you should's, but never, why you shouldn't. I am also assuming we are talking land traps for canine's and coon's.