Had hub bearing put in a yr an half ago an heard noise the last few weeks that was questionable, wether cup tires or not loud noise an uncertain if something else, took shop an had hub bearing other side front loose they say ,$405 , just for bearing plus 2.8 hrs labor at $89 hr, that crazy for just auto part, $405, these auto part prices are absolutely insane. Scary go shop. U could blow a grand like nothing

Hubs on colorado's are no fun.

Sounds normal in price . When the seal goes on a sealed hub it’s over replace and move on

Binden is behind all this inflation an crazy prices on everything u buy

Just a tad on the high side for an independent shop in this area, but not by much.

become a mechanic= start out as a detailer and work your way up. Lots of money to be made.

the whole hub assembly is $67.51 on Amazon. Under $100 lots of places on line..... https://www.amazon.com/Assembly-Com...qvfN8XPf3XomrU0Wt0aArVSEALw_wcB&th=1

I now always replace in pairs it is never more than a few more months till the other side is going out

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE77079141

not a cheap one $232 just for the part at napa

189 from autozone and 227 if you want a warranty

probably just worth it to got to napa

they aren't rocket science but it takes some tools and they would be no fun to do in the snow

on a decent day I can do one that isn't too rusty in about an hour to hour and a half

if your going to try it you need an impact a big socket and a way to pull the old one easily 250 in tools at the cheapest so it depends what you have

wheel hubs are like tires it isn't if it's when you need to replace them and every 2-3 sets of tires is about the answer

soaking everything about it in penetrating oil 3-5 days before you replace it makes it go a lot smoother an 8-9 dollar can of deep creep will save your 30-40 minutes

Wonder why charge so much, I see it listed for $2-300 for hub bearing at advance auto , it didn't take 3 hrs to put in. They go by book price on labor, it is high as can be I think for just hub bearing , so much for make mortgage payment this month

Holy moly.....and here we go .

Wait for a new President. Price might go down.

I have a local shop put in wheel bearings for me, but I order mine from Rock Auto for about $200 less than the exact same bearing they are getting from their "parts guy". My mechanic doesn't care where the bearing comes from, as long as it is a quality part.

That's cheap on labor per hour. Most are charging $100-$125 an hour around here.

Ya but they go by book price . Not how long takes

They wanted $620 to do a wheel bearing on my dad's colorado. I told him to pull it in the driveway, had it done in under 2 hrs.

They aren't bad to do. If you have a warm place I would do it yourself if you can. There are torque specs you will need. Mostly for the CV axle nut.

$405 was pretty high for the part I think

Oh yea, that is awful high. I thought that was for the whole job. Check with a different shop!

Rock Auto is your friend

unless you have to return anything then even if you drive past it on the way to work you have to ship it. that can eat into the savings on some items very quickly

much of what is on rock you can get on Amazon and then at least the returns are easy just take to a UPS store.

rock prices look great till you hit shipping if right and left ship from different warehouses you pay 16 for each for the fedex shipping

I was looking at front end parts this last August for my wife's 2000 expedition I could get it all from rock and I would have saved a little money but it was shipping form 3 different warehouses and taking 3 days to get here

for not a lot more I ordered it on Napa online got 20% off and picked it up at the store the next morning

napa won't tell you if they have a cheaper part they could order in typically they want to sell you what they have on the shelf

if you use napa online you can see all the options at the ware house and if order by 3-4pm it is typically at your store by 8am the next morning walk in an pic it up , need to return it no issue bring the slip back with it

with the wheel beating if you get up into a Timken for the 2008 Colorado you are getting about 140 with 16 shipping the dorman depending on what 4wd package you have on the truck is running 160 and you can have it Monday some time if you order it now and 8am Friday so defintily room for some savings between about 160-176depending on which you need and 232 for the dorman at napa

what seems insane to me is every time you change rotors on a Colorado you have to take the wheel bearing off

makes me wonder what a brake job costs

I have had 1 set brake pads put on Colorado an probly 50 per cent line left, it has 295,000 miles on truck.they never did
A thing rotors because of how hard take off replace, I had other front wheel hub replace a year an half ago. Hopefully it don't decide to go bad , $405 for just hub bearing is out line with prices I am seeing at advance auto, $260 is pricey one, I order a gas tank carb assembly for lawnmower once from Amazon, an wouldn't fit an had send back an order it from Briggs an Stratton I think

Dave that part is well under $100 on-line. I posted a link to it FCOL. Order it and then pay someone to put it in.

Last shop I used, shop rate $165.00 hr. All shops here are at least a month wait. They are ALL short handed and super busy.

If you replace it yourself, there are several Utube videos to guide you.

here is my trick for hub removal I just don't know how well it would work with the rotor still in the mix
I drive out a wheel stud since the new hub comes with them
longest grade 8 bolt I could find at he hardware store , a stack of washers and a nut
hold the nut and run the impact on the bolt , the end of the bolt is pressed into the iron of the steering knuckle
I don't have a way to post the video but this is a still right before it is ready to take a couple swings of the hammer and come off


I see they make a tool that does this now and gets a bit further out , not sure if it would get you around the rotor

https://www.amazon.com/LVOUP-Remover-Removal-Assemblies-Trucks/dp/B0C6GJJTTF?ref_=ast_sto_dp


in the interest of labor I would replace the rotors at the same time or at least grease the back of the hub well so it comes off when you need to change them.

All you gotta do is knock them off with a hammer. I’ve only had 2 that I had to use a puller on out of several hundreds I’ve changed.

Sometimes you have to get a chisel behind them to get them started.

Rock auto is fine but go with the better bearings ntn,moog, Timkin, etc. Amazon and eBay ones that are really cheap are just that, they are junk. I know cause I have put several on for people and 6 months to a year have to replace them again.

Most shops are going to use better more expensive bearings and then add 30 to 35% to the cost.

Find a local independent mechanic where you buy the parts and you pay the labor. My son will do the brakes, rotors, bearings and stuff like that but have a local guy for other stuff that is less than $50an hour.

It's an old rusty truck with 300K miles on it. Don't spend anymore money that you absolutely have to to keep it on the road.

I hope for $405 bearing that it not a cheapy from rock auto. They told me only warrantee 12 mo or 12k miles, that not much warrantee. $769 total with tax an for donut gasket in bottom manifold ,where hook on straight pipe

The problem I see is your truck needs replaced but never wait till you need one to start looking

Pickup prices,$$$$$$

12 month 12K is the standard warrantee on most of the bearings at napa

they probably know 405 will cover whatever napa has in stock

depending on the day that may be the 268 or the 346 or 351 option

they tell you the shortest warranty 12m 12k the longest is 36m 60k

they get what ever napa or whoever they use has that day that can be brought over

sorry the 232 bearing is online order ship to home only

I thought it was $405 for the whole job. That is way too much for just the bearing. I agree with Bluegrassman. Don't get a real cheap bearing, it will go bad in a year just like he said. I have seen it many times.

What I mean you should have started looking 5 years ago . I replaced a 1993 beater in 2019 with a 2005 f150ext cab 4x4 with 98000 miles it was spotless paid 7 grand for it and now has 170 thousand miles but I was looking for 4 years also in 2019 February I bought a brand new f150 xlt super crew 4x4 on the lot for 36,5000 sometimes you have to pull the trigger

The only bearing I ever paid that much for was on my 1999 F250 4x4

Bearing was made into the hub, sounds like that may be same situation here.

Some shops will buy the exact same part you buy at the same price but then put a markup on the part.
Buy your own part and pay them for the labor.
The "warranty" is usually on the part only, you still have to pay the labor

Luckily I have a good front end shop. They always treat me right, so if I can't fix my problem I take it to them.

Hit some awful chuckholes at about 20 mph. Worse I can rember ever, don't notice anything unusual afterwards, how hard u got hit to screw up suspension ?

You up driving on Michigan roads? nothing worse.. Does Iowa suffer from the same?

Only $89 per hour shop rate? That's cheap.