Could they have not opened all valves properly. I have an electric boiler system, with base board radiators. I also have an outdoor wood burner that heats the system, and bypasses the electric boiler, but uses the same pump. The valve opening and closing can be quite confusing. We bought this home last year, and luckily, the previous owner had all valves tagged with instructions.
The installer should be there getting the new equipment working properly, or replacing it!!!

You can try turning the silver screw on the pump and if water comes out its typically circulating. You can manually open those zone valves on the side. Another thing would be if they crossed up one of the thermostat wires with the wrong zone.

Are those some kind of a compression joint on the pipes? Have seen a lot of problems with the welded joints in New pvc pipes with over compressing the joint and restricting water flow.

Looks to me like you need to raise some Cain with the install company. I personally would not be very pleasing to deal with if it were me.

That gray cannister, lower left corner isn't bleeding anything. It's the expansion tank. The shock absorber in the system. Bleeder vents may be upstairs. Look for a screw on a riser on each fin tube. Crack those open to see if you get water or air.

Yes everything is compression fittings.

Another idea would be if they crossed up a supply with a return and it's short cycling thru the boiler. It's seems like there is too many zones on a single pump.

I would like to find a real sharp guy that can trouble shoot the problem. And take the installer to court. Because there in no hurry to come back.

Can you hear gurgling in the lines. That would indicate running in the wrong direction but wouldn't cause poor heat. Are there bleeder valves in the highest part of the system or is the bladder tank (gray one) where the auto bleeder is?

You probably are air locked!

The brass fitting on top of your expansion tank it a super vent. Make sure the little cap is loose on it to allow air to come out. I have had a faulty one of those, you can take a small wire or paper clip and insert it thru the small hole behind the cap. Just push a little bit and water will squirt out of it along with air. They should have installed that before the pump.

Is the fin tube fed from below? You said in an earlier post that the pipes on each side of the fin tube were hot but the fin tube was cool. If fed from below the water could be air blocked in the fin tube and trickling through and the pipes on each side be holding water thus be hot.

Gotta ask..., what made you buy a fuel oil one?

Try manually opening the zone valves.

Do you have a pressure gauge on the propane line? Low temps affect pressures. I know this from our lp corn dryer ( grain dryer ). Maybe an orfice is plugged or not working properly? Did they switch it from natural gas to propane like a gas stove, and was it done correct?

I’m no hvac guy, but I’d hold the company who would installed the unit responsible.

Good luck hopefully your issue is resolved.

If your boiler temp is reaching 180 degrees, that's not the issue. It's a circulation issue.

just a thought, what is that circ pump rated at? and is it installed right? should be a arrow on the body showing direction of flow.

My set up is similar to yours. I isolate one zone and purge the air, get that zone working properly and go to the 2nd zone, then the 3rd. I have circulators on each zone.

I have Taco brand pumps which have an arrow on the housing that shows the flow direction, perhaps yours does also. It’s not real visible because the arrow is molded into the housing and painted over.

I bet the loops are air locked. You may have to install purge valves at the boiler to get the water to circulate.

manually open the zone valves and see what you get