Were on are 3rd tank of Propane 500 gallon

They increased gas pressure

I have not touched it. When they unhooked the old boiler they also unhooked the Electric boiler and that does not work now. We were getting dual fuel rate from the power company.

Oh. Propane ! Maybe it is getting too cold for the propane to get from the tank to the furnace. What kind of temperatures are you getting ? I'm sure there is no wind there either !!

Well,,take my advice in my previous posts .

You originally had an oil boiler. Sorry for thinking that's what you put back in.

Be glad you were not up here by me. I would guess I averaged 5-10 degrees colder than you did. I had 20 below this morning, so it is warming up.

The large system I worked with had 4 zones and 4 pumps. When the thermostat called for heat, the pump kicked on. Took me a while to wrap my head around it, but these were suction pumps in the basement of a 3 story building. Hot water would rise on supply side, cold water would sink on return, so pumps basically just boosted the natural thermo syphon to keep hot water running in the loop. But for that to work, could be no air in system to break the syphon or sediment in system to impede the flow.

Baseboards we had were just a piece of fin tube. Same diameter supply pipe soldered to end of the fin tube pipe. Hot water flowed thru and fins radiated heat. Don't understand how water could be hot on either side and not the tube in the middle, unless water is only conducting heat and not flowing.

The complete loop starting from boiler reservoir / supply was then loop up, then at very peak of the loop was a riser with a ball check valve on it. Any air in the loop would float up to the riser and vent.......then once purged, water pressure would hold the ball check valve closed. It was self venting. Loop would complete back to pump and cycle continued. Also required was a source of makeup water to keep the system filled with slight pressure to hold check valves closed and in the basement an expansion tank filled with captive air to act as a shock absorber.The ball check valves got most of the air trapped in the system, but there were manual bleeder valves too. If loop wasn't flowing had to check them all. An air lock would shut down the flow and you got nothing.

So if you have three loops and one pump, how does the thermostat call for heat? What happens when it does? Does an electric solenoid type valve open and close?

BTW, a large hot water heater, if it will heat to 180 or so, IS a boiler. In building I worked with, was told any commercial rated hot water heater over 90 gallons had to have an annual boiler inspection, same as regular boiler. In addition to heating water, an adjacent hot water heater can be used as a storage / pre-heat tank. But not if you are using glycol for your liquid.

Try turning down one of the zones so it’s not calling for heat and see if that helps heat up the other zones.

I just got home, I will turn 2 of the thermostat down to 50 degrees and leave the one in sleeping level at 70.

I'm sure that new set up cost a pretty penny. HVAC stuff is stupid expensive.

It stinks that you're having all this trouble. I hope you get it worked out to your satisfaction and keep us updated.

Baseboards we had were just a piece of fin tube. Same diameter supply pipe soldered to end of the fin tube pipe. Hot water flowed thru and fins radiated heat. Don't understand how water could be hot on either side and not the tube in the middle, unless water is only conducting heat and not flowing.

I'm wondering the samething if it just conducting heat. It says the pump is pumping 6 gallons a min.

With multiple zones and a single pump, you are bound to have solenoid valves to control the flow in each zone. Sounds like you have a circulation problem. Either air in the system, solenoids not opening or the pump just not pumping.

We had an oil fired unit with the finned type baseboard exchangers. We had two zones and two pumps. Dad chose that system when the house was built because he did not want forced air that would stir up dust.

I remodeled the house in the 80s and ripped the heating system out and replaced it with a geo thermal heat pump, forced air.

I turned 3 thermostat down to 50, to see if the temp will go up on are bedroom. It's been 2 hrs and the room is still at 60. Did not help at all.

The computer board on boiler says the pump is running at 6 gallons per minute. The pump and pipes are so hot you can't put your hands on them. I have said all along is the pump working or is it running the wrong direction.

The guys that put it in says pump is working and running the right direction.

Then why is it 59 or 60 degrees in here.

Another picture. It was 8 above and temp in house never came up

Sounds like it is not circulating the hot water.

Your installer should be at your house figuring out what they have plumbed or wired wrong.

Sounds like you have air in the system with the pump/pipes too hot but heat not getting where it is needed. can you bleed the system one zone at a time?

I see zone valves.

The gray canisters will bleed any air in the system.

They knew it wasn't working today and never showed up.

It cost right at 8000.00

The company is All Season Mechanical out of Fargo N.D.

I think the heat I feel in the pipes is conducted heat not pumped heat. The old boil had a issue real similar. The relay to turn the pump on went bad one night. I opened the electric box and wired in a extention cord and let it run all the time and we had heat again.