Yeeeep time to start messing with some reloads for this ultra varmit. Slapped on a Nikon to get rid of that crappy barska they had on it. I mean crap that thing was bad, want bad at 50yd but when I was trying to shoot it at 100yd and was seeing two crosshairs blurring in and out and bout got a head ache. But yeah that gutted the reciver,n' put in a gold rebounding hammer. I have to half -it now but lets me go from the 6lbs trigger it had down to 2.5 pretty easy.




Still need to give it a good barrel scrubbing but other then that shouldn't be able to blame the gun
Actually bought some center fire brass cases ammo for the first time in about 3 years which felt weird

Shot 15 if em for brass lost one so measured and averaged out the shoulders on those 14

Think my average was like 1.450" . Guess two though of bump will be good enough.
Dug though my range pickings gotta 20 or so extra Wolf .223 cases imma use too.
Anneled everything. Just used a drill and a Lil holder I made out of a 3/8ths deep well socket. I'm too poor to have one of them fancy anneling machines but my socket is a Craftsman so I got a little class
But yeah used some 700 degree tempaliq on some test cases counted one.two.three.four.five.six. seevvven dump was about the rythem seems to wok good.



Now tonight come the fun part of full length sizing all these and trying to get consistent bumps with my die which I learned is working weird probably because of a machining Burr left in the die

Guess it's partly my fault though I mean I've had this set for close to five years now and the other day what the first time I actually decided to take it apart and clean it soo yeah .
O and side I mention also gotta trime chamfer and deburrs fun fun fun

Looking good!

I enjoy your posts

I need to look on gun broker. A project gun would sure help with all this time spent waiting to heal up. I have watched Hulu Netflix and youtube so much my brain feels like gob of dried up rubber cement.

what the purpose of the torch..

That is used to anneal the neck/shoulder area of the brass.

Thanks. Is this used for superior accuracy?? Never saw it done for regular handholds..

it makes the brass last longer. you can load it a few more times.

google, annealing rifle brass

It also gives you more uniform neck tension.

are there any small projects like whittling , carving , maybe knife building or similar you can do.

if components were available relaoding

Tell me about that hammer, please.

Soooo an interesting thing is happening
Was trying to full-length resize and bump shoulders last night and couldn't get them to move what so ever . My brass has been fire forming at an average of 1.450" base to shoulder but no matter what I tried I could not get my side to bump a should past 1.451". well I went and took measurements from the remaining five factory rounds I had and their measuring 1.454" base to shoulder on average! So my brass is friggen shrinking
So ,empty and zeroed out

New unfired round

Fire formed in my rifle


The other weird this is this rifle will chamber once fired like it's new and vice versa

Hope you don't mind a copy and paste from a old thread lol but here ya go

Ok so I don't know is anyone remembers but I was trying to build a target rifle out of my old Handi rifle .22lr. well the triggers on the are notorious for being poor and heavy not to mention problems with the transfer bar breaking issues. Well ends up you can alleviate all that with a rebounding hammer for a H&R 155.




It basically turns your gun into one of the old style actions that give you a half engaged to keep pressure off the firing pin and to let you reload and a full engaged to fire. No real safety mechanism other than well... Common sense. You know don't coke it till you about to shoot something . This also removes like 80% of all the guts.



And without all that it gives it a much lower trigger pull out the gate ! My stock Handi with all the "guts" and what not runs a bit over 5lbs of trigger pull, while my rebounds trigger one runs at a little over two !



Now you will have to modify you hammer spring or get a new one that bend out wider , I just too mine and bent it out some as well as pop in a cut roll pin for a spring stop as it doesn't come with one but all in all for less than $20 it's a major improvement imo ! Now this isn't something I'd reccomed doing to your kids rifle or someone who inst very competent in firearms safety though. It's not near as safe as a transfer bar but if your trying to make a little target going or something may be with a look !

I have a Small base 223 RCBS sizing die if you want it. PM me you postal addy and I'll mail the thing to you

Aight so this gun is WEIRD. IM THINKING it's because of a sloppy chamber but this thing ,unlik my AR's or bolt guns has a crazy wide tolerance for sized cases. So here's a lil test I did
Took four pieces of cleaned range ( R-P .223) brass labeled them 1-4 measured all of em base to shoulder , wrote it down and tried all of them . Nothing would chamber as is in the gun.would let me close the gun about 3/4's of the way and get stuck. Aight bet. So then called them re measured. Then took my Lee full length re sizer and proceed to bump the shoulders in increments or around four thou. Was kind ahap hazard honestly but hay I just need stop be close! Ok so in like my are or my bolt gun I can't really "feel " the chambering resistance in a traditional sense but what I can do is take note of how much for it take for the breech to lock into place. Empty it takes no for what so ever. So what I did was insert each of the sized cases in the breech and used as little force as possible to try and close it and lock the breech. After 1.458" I noticed I had to use just the slightest but of extra force to close my breech so I'm calling 1.458" as my max! Now did I need to do all that, well...no not really BUT ! it was probably gonna drive me nuts other wise down the road .


Now the weird thing is this thing is fire forming brass at an average ( as of the first firing) at 1.450" . So basically and mabye I'm wrong but it seems if that case is measuring 1.450-1.458 base to shoulder. It's gonna take it . Which is kinda nuts because with some of my other guns it's no where near that loose but hay quirky little gun lol.

Okie dokie so more on this weird Lil Heffier. So it's firing forming @ 1.450" I can't size this brass down past 1.451 so I said screw it. Basically ended up FL sizing the bodyh and once but not the shoulder on the fire fired stuff and just bumped the Wolf down to 1.451 so I have a constant. So yeah trimmed Chamfered deburred. Btw something I picked up watching some of the precision guys is use use fine steel wool after you deburr to make sure you got everything. Really cleans the necks. Alost trying tumbling in rice. Apparently it does some while stuff when it come to bullet tension. Honestly I'm just poor and like trying thing sooo



So while those where tumbling went and took a pice of the fire formed PMC cut the neck and made a OAL/CBTO gauge and proceed to try and find the hard jam. And let me talk y'all, this thing has a friggen giraffe throat ! With the shorter bullets I wasn't even touching the lands with them barely hanging in the case found a bag of 55gr PPU SP that works though. So need up finding my hard jam for that bullet and subtracted 20 tho for my jump and we a rolling. First time Ive ever reloaded jacked flat based bullets btw lol



So temps are fluctuatin like nuts so decided to use some H322 since it's more temp stable. I know when I was messing with TAC a 30 degree difference made it do some weird stuff .

Boy I love my Lil atuo pourer so working in .3 grain incriminates 5rd a group and according to the book I'm gonna be starting out around 2800fps which is probably the fastest I've ever loaded for but that just a STARING LOAD in the book and seating dang near bout perfect




And they want $30 for a 20rd box of these !
Well it's actually kinda warm and quiet wind wise so I'm about to get the cameras and see what happens and how bad I shoot today

do you have your seating die on the flat or cone option ? seems all your soft points are flattened , if you use lee dies you can turn the part inside the die around and it grabs on the ogive not the nose

You know I actually didn't know that was a thing ! But I checked and it's cone down. These where cheap bullets so that probably has something to do with it

Sooooo got out and got kinda good news ! Was able to cut the factory groups down by like half . The bad news is well. It's about a 2 moa gun rn. Which is alot better then what some of the guys over on accurate said they where getting lol ( and I mean their saying pie plate groups @100yd). Beat group of the day was a Lil over 1" excluding the flyer which I'm getting on every group,but I'll chalk that up to poor follow though. But this Lil girl is a dream to shoot now with this trigger job and is so much nicer then my AR lol





Reckon I'll load more of this try and see if it will recreate this group and start messing with seating depth

I have a h and r in 22 hornet. Thing is a tack driver. Keep playing around with it.

Wolfie, be run too see when you finally step up to a REAL gun.

We talking .30cals or what lol ? My mosin and my .30-06 are just gonna have to wait till I can get some Varget and more late rifle primers lol.
That being said it is on the list to get a nice .260 rem but from what I've been told about them it'll end up like my .243. on the wall with a box of shells loaded for it because it's just plain works lol

When I saw those bullet tips I went and put a Lead seating die in the box with the other one for ya lol

Thanks for letting us follow along!

Ok so learned something interesting! Was over on greybeard talk to them h&r nuts and umm apparently it's not uncommon for these things to throw shots

Like I'm not sure what to think about it but was told to try two shot groups. A guy said his would shoot two close together and throw the third... Something about the barrel heating up honestly I find this weird beyond belief but idk

Any way another thing I mentioned was this thing is fireforming very strangely. Some are longer then 1.450" ( my base line and some are out to 1.454". No real ryme or reason. Thinking mabye this powered is bad because umm be honest I've left some of it in the auto charge for a day or two and poured it back in never though how the humidity would affect it so that may be it. Got date for win 748 and Ramshot tac so guess I'll try that next
Another question : do any of these primer look cratered ? Some dint just look right but never really got the hang of being able to tell what's cratered

But yeah decapped , wet tumbled with hot water Dawn and a Lil lemme shine in my Lil harbor freight tumbler. And just a tip save your money one of them fancy brass dehydrators bought this one from Walmart for $30 and dries em out bone dry in a Lil over two hours

Those primers are not cratered they don’t even look Max out shoulders are still round. As far as throwing the third shot there is a good possibility your barrel was not stress relieved when it was made. Cost money to do that don’t you know. The test for that is to shoot one shot at a time with the barrel completely cool. If it still produces flyers with the third shot fowling is a prime suspect.. If not then freefloating is the corrective measure.Unfortunately free-floating a single shot is not practical due to the way the forend is fasten

Sounds to me like your chamber is jacked up. Sounds like they are made jacked up from the factory. I do know that a jacked up chamber will exhibit cold bore/hot bore variance.
I had a Remington 700 in 243 that shot sub 1/2 minute all day long, then one day it decided to throw the first shot (cold bore) 1.5" left. The following shots would hit where they were supposed to. I sent it to the gunsmith and he found that there was a considerable amount of corrosion in the chamber. (This gun was used in an environment rich with salt spray, and I was not diligent in properly swabbing the chamber after each use.) They rechambered it to clean it up. It was not an inexpensive job. They have to remove the barrel from the receiver, cut a bit off of the breach end of the barrel, cut the new chamber, then reinstall the barrel at the correct depth in the receiver.
I don't know what is entailed in rechambering a break action gun, but it doesn't seem like it would be easy to do, if possible at all.
In your case, with your gun, just make sure the first shot counts, and request that the nearby animals hold still until your barrel cools off.

Is it locking up tight? no movement when closed.

Two suggestions, the first if you haven't already done it is get an O-ring of the proper size and put between the forearm hanger and the forearm and only tighten the forearm retaining screw until it is snug this often helps with grouping on the Handi-rifles. The next suggestion is to get you some shooting bags and place them under the action of the gun as opposed to on the forearm as they are traditionally used this reduces uneven pressure on the forearm/barrel which causes torquing. The Handi-rifles as a rule don't like bipods. Keep up posting your progress!

So side note: I just realized a complete idiot tell me why I started my loads at 19.5 and instead of going to 20gr + I backed up and went to 18gr boy imma blow my face off one day I swear

You know your about the third person to tell me that so I reckon I'll give it a try ! And I got say I hate not being able to use my bipod effectively because that the main way I shoot when I actually hunting and the like no next test it's gonna be two shots then five minutes of cooling then 2 more shots I guess and see what happens . And I'll b sure to break out my bags this time

Your starting load for a 55 grain jacketed bullet is somewhere between 22 and 23 grains of TAC depending on the bullet style .... don't go lower than that or it can get risky

Was using h322 but your right. I need to stop loading till 2in the morning lol

So was given some reading from one of the guys over at greybeard and if my gun is anything like this guy's, looks like I'm doing pretty dang good lol

Wolf, I quickly read the whole post. I shoot 3 handi rifles, load 2 of them. You do of course realize that every time you shoot a round the next lock-up is different don't you? Forgot those that decrie your rifle my 223 and 243 make clover leafs at 200 yards. I load the 223 and 45/70 and they all shoot less than MOA at 100 yards. Look at something other than your loads.
Case

Just reread saw others may have made similar suggestions.
Case

Yep I gotta few things planned . One is gonna be bedding my forgrip to the barrel. Remembered I my Patriot wouldn't shoot well at all due to it's flimsy plastic stock. Filled the forend with jbweld and do a bedding job around the action and it's probably my most accurate gun. So much so I put four rounds in one hole @100 with two different loads , load up a box of shells and it's been handing on the wall ever since, no need to really mess with it.
Which what everyone is saying I'm thinking it's gonna be a similar deal.
Then I'm gonna just do three shot groups and let the barrel cool of for probably ten min before I shoot any more since apparently these things go nuts when it come to barrel heat.
And as much as it kinda messes with things I've been taught imma put the bipod in the shelf for a bit and go to straight front and rear bags.
Bags and three round grouping will probably be first.
That being said on the reloading front , looking back at all my targets this thing is liking them fast best group was being from the fastest which if I believe my chrony was around 2450fps. Which I'm still finding hard to believe really thinking my chrono is bugging out because the same load in the book is supposed to be around 2800fps but their test rifle was a 26" barrel mines a 24". That paired with some reading I've been doing, over on accurate and greybeard I could be loosing up to 80fps per inch I'm missing long with Handi's that are over bored ( like I'm thinking mine is ) are a wrong velocities less then 100fps then other rifles

Well their new brass prepped primed and ready trying to see if I'm gonna go up with H322 or switch over to TAC .....think imma sleep on it and see in the morning

I might have to try that before I do this

I gotta say though the more I read about this things the more they remind me of spring piston air rifles.like yeah they WIIL SHOOT ! but you gotta hole em juuuust right. Actually make me curious how much of a harmonic nightmare these are compered to springers boy lemme stop before I forget to sleep again and and reloading buddy has to spend the rest of the night on my shooing mat

The more I talk to guys who like these guns the more I feel like imma Choke my self for buying one 🤣 apparently over bored Chambers shallow lands and some other things arnt uncommon at all

If all else fails, re barrel the thing. Rifles don't have to make sense. I have it in my head to build a 6.5 Gibbs whenever I can find a long action to build it on. Not that I need something like that around here as I can put meat on the table with the old 30-30 or even my 10mm pistol if I was so inclined. I just want to build one because.................
You want a good shooting handy rifle. That in itself is reason enough to spend the time and effort to just do what it takes to get there. If nothing else, we will end up learning something from it ...... spending time and money to learn something is never wasted.

I only have the one. 22 hornet. I like it. A lot of times those tales of woe are repeated by guys just because thats what they heard. Mine doesn't have a thumbhole stock or bipod but it shoots great. An old beaver trapper I knew in WY had everybody around there calling me Dangerous Dan. He was with me one day when I shot a fox with it at about 200 yards. Maybe mine is an exception but before I spent a bunch of money I would try other stuff. Starting with powder charge/type and bullet seating. All the other stuff too. Good lock up, good sight, no loose screws. That O ring thing is cheap enough too.

Wolf, what is your goal for this rifle... What level of accuracy are you trying to achieve?

Answering that question will determine how much time, effort, and money you want to invest in the gun and handloads.

If you want to just tinker with it and see if you can continuously improve it then you'll never be done. If you have an objective in mind work to that goal.

Both options are fine and depend on the shooter and his goals. Just keep in mind the limitations of yourself, the gun, and the cartridge.

BTW, how does the crown look?

Mike

Honestly with all the reading I'm doing with this and being realistic. If i can consistently get this thing to shoot a 3rd group 1" and under @ 100 consistently ,I'll be happy. It's showing me already that with hand loads @1.5" isn't super hard.
As far as money,egh I'm not gonna try and drop more then $100 more bunch I to it . It's just not worth it. It's not a bench rest gun ,not at prs gun and I'm not about to try and make it into one. Just way more trouble then even I wanna go though. Gonna try bedding the forend then after that just different style of shooting and messing with reloads. Honestly even if I can get this thing shooting consistently,I'm still probably gonna mess with it. Just my nature lol

Sorry forgot to add the crown is pretty nice,I'll take a pic when I get back to the house

I guess I should have asked what your goal is. If that thing is shooting 1 1/2 inch groups at 100 then at 200 you should only miss by 1 1/2 tops . Won't work for competition but will be good coyote medicine which would tickle me pink. I need to remember not everybody see's a firearm the way I do. Its a tool to me. I like shooting but trying to hit a nickel at 300 yards just isnt in my cards. 1 1/2 at a hundred will easy tip over a coyote at 3 and thats a good tool in my book.

I forgot to ask what your barrel twist is.

If the crown isn't dinged, that's one less variable. Try the O-ring deal too... That's a dirt cheap experiment. May not yield anything but no big loss if it doesn't. Bedding it probably won't hurt either, if you do it yourself and do a good job, then you haven't lost much money.

1 moa @ 100 is perfectly acceptable for a goal.

If you play with the handloads and it looks like the gun is serviceable, then consider spending the dough on match brass/bullets if you want to wring more accuracy out of it.

Keep after it.

Mike

Supposed to be 1-12
And here's the crown,pretty nice imo

Ya know I tell my self sometimes, "man you should just save up ! Stop buying fixer uppers, just say up $2000bucks ! Buy ya a nice gun a bagara ora Ruger RPR mabye get it in something that works like 6.5 Creedmore or just a .308 a classic! Put a nice bit of glass on it and just shoot , it would be easy !"
Then I get a lil $300 pawnshop special and the ADHD Mad Scientist/ clueless wanna be gunsmith comes out and I'm just like " nawwwww where the fun in that ?! " boy o boy I have problems
So yeah wasn't able to do load testing today and it's supposed to be kinda bad weather tomorrow soooooo I said screw it I'm bedding this forarm.
Don't help I found this Lil beauty at in the tool pile for $16 bones out the door !


Lol under half price then at the store !
Yeah I know I need to stay out the pawn shop but
Anyhow picked up a $15 tool kit from Wally world and now I got a new helper for the gun bench!

So before I go any further lemme go ahead and give the disclaimer :I AM NOT A GUNSMITH I haven't been to school for this ,I don't do these things for a living ,heck I'm probably doing it wrong . Don't do what I'm doing until you do your own research.

So anyhow I've done this on a few of my rifles and seems to be a pretty straightforward deal and so far everyone I've done has shot better soooo.
First off took of my for arm and used a Lil drill bit to perforate the inside to give my bedding compound some where to latch on to

Then I went back with some 120 grit sand paper . Everything has a layer of clear coat so I just got that scratched up hopefully to help it bind better. Then went over and got rid of all the saw dust

And gotta say, that is some BEAUTIFUL wood grain . A+ rating in my book. But now I mix up my bedding compound which will remain nameless less the the actual gunsmith strangle me


And this forarm has a SNUG fit so I didn't put down a super thick layer. It's decent but not crazy. Actually don't use half of the compound I mixed but it's cheap so


And now for my release agent. Last time I did this when I was like 19 I actually used Crisco. Worked like a dream but after doing some reading and looking at what I had. , I'm using molly grease this time. Have a whole tuber if it for air rifle work so just too a paint brush and slathered it on everything that could come in contact with the bedding agent.



Last gunsmith I talk to about this said it's better to go over board then have a mechanical lock up and have to cut a stock off .
Then I proceeded to completely stuff the for arm hanger and retainer screw with Molly and some wd40 sinch her down with masking tape, and btw when it comes to masking tape just spend the extra and get frog tape this cheap stuff is such a pain.


And now we wait 24hr to see just how bad I done goofed

Good old JB weld bedding....... uuups I said it

So had a lil heart attack lol. This thing was in their tight! Had to wrap a large diameter punch in a Lil towel and tap around the sides and it popped right out ! And weeeellll







The round end looks pretty nice but the rear ! Really should have added more but hay . Y'all Reckon I should give this a good wipe down and do a second application to fill in all these gaps ? Also end up getting a tiny bit on the front end of the barrel, what would be a good way to remove this without messing up my bluing? Or is there just not a way ?

Shhhhh it's a secret

You went this far. May as well smooth it all up. I doubt you get that speck off without leaving a mark on the blue. I am curious to see if your groups get smaller too. Don't leave us hanging.

You can get the JB..... errrrr bedding compound off with acetone and some time and elbow grease. I soak a paper towel folded with it and leave it of there for a while and that softens the surface of the stuff . I would spray the bedding you got in there down with brake clean , being careful not to get any on the wood finish and put another layer on there. May as well do it right ish, now that you started on your way down that rabbit hole.

Rightish
Well taped her up ,blasted the tar out of it with break cleaner air it out and too the end mill bit on my Dremel and honed out the hole for the hanger. Just was nasty and figured there was suttl some Molly stuffed in there sooo. Also too the drill bit and divided it out again and btw check the bedding layer. It's like 1/16" thick till you hit wood !






So yeah used a metric butt load this time and the way it's all sealing out I'll be surprised if I don't have a really good deal tomorrow

So just got home and had to give her the old tape wrapped punch treatment again but popped off and after a little clean up with the razor knife !




Fits like a pair of yoga pants now the question is, should I wait till I get my new front rest in a week to test it or should I go out on the bipod again ?

Weather gonna be colder in a couple days. Give her a test tomorrow.

Give'r a whirl !

Might be the fix and one way to find out.

That looks good.

Ok y'all lil update !
So I scrubbed the tar outta this gun. Took about 30min but she's patching out white now

So got out less then an hour before sunset. Set up in prone and the first thing I did was test the best load I had to date in two three round groups @100yd. I adjusted the scope I lil better and boooooy I love this thing ! I just put my face down and bam ! Perfect ! But I digress. Anyhow both the bipod and the bag set up where both shot with 19.5 gr of h322 which WAS my best load so far though sloooooowww according to my last Chrono session it's running around 2400fps when I average it out.


So side by side here the two groups

So yeah the bags win out. Interesting thing though ,seems bedding the gun shifted my POI because last time I shot this I zeroed it to at least patter in the sticky. And as y'all see these are a bit higher up and to the right.
So it's obvious the bags work better , idk mabye it's the rifle mabye it's just more stable , but the rest of the set where shot off if bags.

Now I did try and get velocities but due to the sun dropping my chrony only caught the first 6 and I'm not sure if I wanna trust them. I also tried shooting with the front bag either on the for arm or under the reciver. I honestly wasn't comfortable with it under the reciver so I mainly shot with it under the for arm and a rear bag



So absolute worse group was a bit over 4"@100


But with that being said it easily kept everything thing else at or under 1.5"@100yd


With my best group to date being a hair over 1" @100yd

And ya know , if I can get this to be repeatable I think imma be happy...kinda lol

So now that I was back at the house. I feel that the solid bed...didn't really do anything accuracy wise. Mainly feel the problem was the first go around was I didn't keep giving it more powder. So after eveyone and there mom on the handi pages kept asking I finally said screw it and found some o rings to this o ring trick thing. Had some for air rifle repair that fit the hanger perfectly so I just slipped two on after I did some sanding to the for end . I only sanded past the hanger area. I want everything past that to float.


So yeah I can slide a pice of folder paper under it super easy so let's see what happens next

Are you shooting cast bullets? If you are those groups are pretty decent. Its shooting good enough now to be a very effective tool.

Going down the rabbit hole chasing dime size groups is fun though.

Well well well y'all think I found something had a box of 45gr Hornady SP Hornets from probably the 90's just lying around and just so happens my Hornady book had a load for them with TAC. So said what the heck. Did everything by the book made up nine rounds total let the barrel cool for 60sec in between shots ( actually set a timer on my phone ,and end up with two of the best groups two date

Nice.

What all powders have you tried with the Hornet? I have some lil gun and their online shows several other powders by Hodgdon for it.

I'm having fun following along. Looking like your going in the right direction.

being it is an older gun and seems to like those 45gr did you check your twist rate? the older H&R had a 1:12 twist i think it changed in about 2006.

you might even try a 40gr bullet

From everything I've read these are supposed to me 1-12 twist some mabye going lighter was the deal all along. Still can't get over this whole thing with the barrels not being stressed relived

The bullet or my .22hornet rifle ? I've yet to mess with the rifle actually
But as far as the bullet just TAC so far I gotta jug of little gun though

I have a handy rifle in 22 Hornet as well. Not played much with it as far as loads. Following this and peeking my interest.

My 22 hornet handy rifle likes 45 grain nosler ballistic tips sitting on 11 grains of IMR4227.

P.S. I know I described mine as a tack driver but we all have different expectations. It shoots groups like the one you posted. About quarter size. In my world thats great. Means at 200 yards you shouldn't miss by more than an inch. if you do its your fault not the rifles. One inch aint much. Good enough to kill anything I want to shoot with the little cartridge. A few years ago I shot a doe with mine. Son in Law told me it wasn't big enough even though legal here in KS now. He was griping about the new reg. I shot that doe at about 75 yards while she was facing me. Center of the throat into the spine. Never took a step.

www.shootingtimes.com/editorial/ammunition_22hornet_082306/99290

So just out of trying to get rid of some extra loads I proper up on a fence post about 120yd mabye and sent down at this Lil 4" gong and I'm pleasantly surprised

Looks like a one holer on a critter.

Y'all ! WE GOT SUB MOA !!!!!!
So was fiddling around last night and after about two hours and alot of sand paper got my trigger down to about a pounds and four ounces account to my pull gauge. Though it was studios light but man where you on that target
I have don't NOTHING to this load at all. All I did today was take a shot get up and just let it cool for a while. I mean I just walked off and tried to climb a tree or something. That stuff about the barrels not being stress relieved is 100% true apparently. Because yesterday I was just shooting and I was averageing a lil over an inch. But today !!


Boooooooy I'm pumped now I'll tell ya this crap is better then drugs lol. O and even tried some cast. And guys this had to have been some of the quickest load development ever . Like 30min top! Found jam backed off twenty thousands back off a grain from my AR's best load did three loads in .3 grain incriminates and cut my best group out my AR a lil over a half @50 and where running close to right around 2200 fps !

Awesome, lipstick load!!!

Nicely done. I am happy for ya

looking good

especially that cast & coated load

when you going to plug a hog with that?

Really Cool Wolfdog!

Well gotta get my scope back from my buddy first off lol
And speaking of cast. Took it out to 100yd today and was going pretty good but didn't gemive the barrel enough time to cool ( realized I was gonna be late to work and welllll

Had peoel asking about the rebounding hammer so ttt

wow thats one slick gun