Been working on ground hog removal in the city cemetery. Got 9 today. Total of 14 for 3 days and it looks like there are plenty more to go around. Starting to see more little ones now that the bigger ones are getting thinned down. Starting to use more snares and was wondering what set up some of you guys use. Had the anchor's a little to close to the hole and had to dig two out. Managed to get one with my nitro piston in 22 caliber. Definitely had a good day today.

I am always amazed at the incredible number of woodchucks that some areas have. Nine would be a really good week for us. Good job!

Thanks Paul. Picked up two more today. Think I'm going to have to do a little sitting to pick off some of the wiser ones. Some of the grounds keepers have been trying to whittle them down and in the process educated some. Fair grounds are right next door and it is polluted with them. Think I'll take my bow tomorrow with some judo points.

I set so they can just get down the hole out of site, but, I can still pull them out. although today I had one get way under the shed, I knew it was going to because I had to add another extension. My rig is a 1x19 1/16 or 5/64 snare 27 inches of cable. either my super relax lock or a slim lock. I have to have a deer stop on my snares, that is set at 6 inches from the top of the lock down the cable. I have a in-line barrel swivel attached and then I have a attached 3/32 7x7 extension 27 inches long with a earth anchor. that deer stop kills me on the little hogs.

This is the way I like them

Today I went ahead and added another stake to all my snare set ups so the ground hog will wrap up on the extra stake and not be able to get to far down the hole. Once I have most of the adults caught I'm going to run nothing but 120's so I can start picking up the young ones. I also rigged up some shorter snare with a swivel on the end that I can either stake down or add an extension to. We have to run deer stops as well and I'm surprised I haven't lost any yet because of them.

Can't use killers here.

Ohio is deer stops or break-away up to #350 lbs. For hogs, I was running 1/16 cable to cam-locks and Sullivan break-aways. But Ron gave a great urban snaring demo at the Cleveland WCT Seminar so I've modified some snares to be more along what he has. If they work well, I'm hoping he starts making them as I'd rather buy quality product from someone I trust than take time I don't have to purchase the necessary products and make my own for the same price I'd pay Ron.

In Ohio we can use killer traps with a 5" or smaller jaw spread on land. I cover the den entrance with hardware cloth just to be on the safe side. The hogs can come out, but nothing can get in. I'm going to try some 1/16 1X19 with a micro lock and overload them the way LT showed. I believe I got most of the adults and now have to start picking up the little ones. Cemetary is right next to the fair grounds and while setting a baited cage I looked over and saw 6 hogs watching me. Trying to contact the fair board to see if they need me to remove some before the fair rolls around.

The new nuisance law always for 6" bodygripping traps for certified nuisance wild animal control operators on land. The regulation for groundhogs is that you can use up to a 7" bodygripping trap; however, anytime you use a bodygripping trap greater than 5" for groundhogs, you must create an enclosure or structure around it to prevent animals from entering from the outside.

I am certified, but wasn't aware of the increased jaw spread for conibears. I have been using 1/2X1/2" hardware cloth for several years to keep animals from entering den entrances. What do you use to keep animals from being able to enter the den?

I don't worry about it. I use 155's and snares so I want to be able to catch the groundhog coming or going. In 15 years, I've only caught 1 nontarget and it was a cat that was coming out of the groundhog tunnel. So even if I had it "enclosed" I still would have caught it.

That makes sense, but because the cemetery is in town I want to make sure I don't catch any non-target animals. Its a college town and it definitely has its share of tree huggers and other lesser intelligent activists.

Hey Jonesie, whats a super relaxing lock look like?

I understand your concerns with or without being by that very liberal college town, but you also have to consider that putting the wire cover in place can draw more attention to your sets especially from kids that want to go exploring.

Ways that you can help protect yourself if you're concerned with the college kids are to do early morning checks before everyone is up. I'd also make sure to do a mid-day check as well as an evening check. We're starting to get temps hot enough where carcasses are going to start swelling quickly so a 'hog caught at 8am could be ready to burst by 2pm. Anyone seeing that could easily misunderstand what happened and raise a stink (no pun intended).

Options available to you are to cover the tunnel openings with wire (bigger mesh size like 1.5 or 2 inch would still keep pets out and give a more open look to the set) and stake it down on one end to allow a 'hog to climb underneath it or stake all four corners down so nothing can get through.

You could dig out the set a bit so you can set the 155 back further into the tunnel system which would keep certain pets out as they may only stick their head in for a couple of inches. You could also put an attractor away from the tunnel opening to draw attention to it instead of the set.

Stay with the snares with enough extra cable for caught 'hogs to retreat into the hole but be easily pulled out. You can also go with cage traps.

Or if you want to get really fancy, you can use an electronic caller and catch pole like Darcy Alkerton. Of course, you'd need a groundhog in distress call (available from FoxPro and other call retailers) and a carry cage, but according to Darcy, you approach the tunnel from the back side and play the distress call. When the groundhog pops out to see what is happening, you quickly grab them with the catch pole and put them in a cage trap then move to the next tunnel you've notice activity at. I've never done it, but if I was in what I felt was a very sensitive situation, I'd give it a try and then go with more conventional control methods if necessary.

wormbobskey it is a washer lock that I came up with about 10 years ago. I am sure others out there may have the same design as many think alike just never see the others.

I love slims locks, and like micros. the problem I have with micros is they are harder to get off a live animal. when I catch a Groundhog or coon in a yard I am not going to kill it there. so I have to put it into a cage trap. That can be a pain on those micro's as they will snug up real tight on the animal and a hog caught around the belly can be a real joy to deal with. With a neck snared hog or coon, trying to put a snare pole on is even more fun as the snare cable always seems to get in the way. now try to find that little lock well you got the pic. If I could kill the animal there in the yard I would have no problems with the little lock. With a washer lock or any lock that has surface area, it easier to find. I also use loops to attach to the bottom of the locks which adds in a easier cable removal on a live animal.

Eric I do make and sell a lot of snares to the adc and fur fields.

Here is a pic of some that I make and use, only now we crimp all our snares , although I believe one hard press gives a better hold but looks ugly
slim lock pictured



Super relax same rig set up as above.

Ron,

You're over your PM limit.

got rid of some of them Man there is a lot LOL

I've made the same snare as the super relaxing lock, but installed a break away instead of the loop you use. I made a few snares today to leave with the care takers as I will be pulling out of the cemetery tomorrow. Shot three out of the same hole today and my catch has dropped way off. Already have the holes filled that weren't active. Care takers really don't have the time to be trying to catch hogs and maintain the grounds so I will be on call whenever they need help.
I do run all my sets early in the morning and have informed the police that I had a trap stolen. Care taker said all the traps he had set were stolen as well. Police make a token cruise through the cemetery after hours.

watch your hole bore and bend on the washer locks, If the bore does not work with the bend it can be a very slow trigger or when closed to bottom will open back up like a spring before cable set can be obtained. ( slow easy moving animals) Also for myself, I am sure others will disagree, in my coon and hog snares I want the trigger motion to be down not out like we want in k9 and cat snares. in thick brush makes no difference really, But, In open sets like dens, if you ever watch a hog or coon you will see them step through the loop. Their front foot goes into the loop the same time or just a little ahead of the nose. I set my hog and coon snares 5 to 6 inches off the walking surface to the bottom of the loop in the trails. in the dens I will go around 4 but I lay the snare so it is a straight angle with the slope of the den gully, right where the hog is going to stop and stick it's head up to do the last look before coming out. I want the head in the loop looking around if I can, so the next move forward in fact will be a push on the snare like if you was holding the snare and pushing down instead of out. Hard to explain for me in words BUT, I know what I is saying LOL the bend and bore need to allow this to happen. the double load that LT refers to I do somewhat the same. 1x19 it is easier to do than with 7x7. the loop acts as break away in that it is a form of a 2 part lock system, loops and a good 2 part system does not bind the lock on easy pulls and also like I stated gives me a release spot to find easy. also the loop acts as a break away on a calf rope, That is how I got the idea LOL, so if I have a bad critter like a cat I cut the loop and let the cat run when it hits the end the loop pops open and of the critter goes. As a fur snare men I don't need to think about all this stuff just set the snare and catch a critter, the hard critters leave for seed as they pay the same for the dumb faster easier ones to catch. But when doing adc in yards and such we need to get them all and think and control the things that can go wrong.

I need to work a little on my snare placement. All hogs snared on this particular job were hip snared. I have been using my go to coon and fox snares and need to make more of the shorter, loaded snares with BAD's so that neck snaring will be more of a reality. With our deer stop law only the largest hogs would have been able to get snared around the neck and still be there on the next check. I was able to pick up 5 more ground hogs today, but all but one were hogs from adjoining properties. That's a total of 23 in 5 days. Won't find out if I got the job on the fair until next month. That will only give me a couple of weeks before the fair opens and the job would have to be shut down until its over.
Looking at the top snare is that a deer stop on the snare? How does it perform on neck snaring hogs. Of course like you said, if you only make the snare long enough for them to get into the hole I guess it wouldn't matter if you neck snare or catch them by the hips. I have noticed that hogs don't fight to much or at least not as much as coon do in snares.

wormbobskey,

Ron is definitely better to address this than me, but the reason I use breakaways is so I can neck snare. Like I said, currently I'm using camlocks and Sullivan S hooks, but this setup allows the snare to close completely. I also do my setting differently. For young 'hogs I do a 3 - 4 inch loop 1 - 2 inches off the ground. For adults, I do a 4 - 5 inch loop 1 - 2 inches off the ground.

This setup does allow snares to get fired off or pushed out of the way (especially if you don't do some limited fencing), but over 90% of my catches are neck snares.

I have had a lot of my snares pushed to the side and even had one that had obviously caught one for a while as it was all kinked up, but no hog. I have some 1/16 1X19 snares I made for mink that I never used. I used 1/2 diameter washers with a break away and over loaded them. They were extremely fast and in some cases hard to keep set as they wanted to slam shut all the time. After I made them I figured I would never use them, espeacially on mink, but now I believe they will work very well for hogs. I have my loop size about right but a little lower than yours. Maybe that's why they were being pushed aside a lot. I appreciate all the information as I know I will be using more snares in the future on jobs like this.
On a different note. I found 3 older northwoods 110's this weekend at a yard sale and have converted them to 120's with pans. All have new springs and will be perfect on those smaller hogs.

This is going to open a can of worms LOL and yes Paul I need to do the LOL to make sure it stays on the light note. IN MY OPINION and only IMO based on snaring since 1987 in a populated area.(NJ) So feel free to agree or to tell me I am full of sugar LOL

It all goes back to what I said in the other post, I believe on downward trigger vs outward trigger. We need go back to habits and behaviour of the animals are after. As a norm, when we talk, we base our snaring methods off of fur snaring, when in fact, what we are talking about here is ADC in an IN SIGHT AREA, and in most sets, open. not the back 40. Fur snaring or back 40 ADC, We want a neck catch. The reason is in fur trapping neck catches, reduce fur damage, and kill the animal fast in a true snare that is used in most states.(no deer stops or break aways) Yet in states like NJ (1987)we adopted, What we have classified as a non lethal body gripping snare. other states are doing like wise with similar stops. The deer stop puts my snare into this classification lawfully. nuff said on that. The breakaway is to allow animals such as deer and larger to get out of a snare not a Non lethal snare. lets not get into the live vs dead thing here.

Most methods and talk are in fact based off of k9 and cat snaring in a travel set. Where the animal is moving forward and hopefully at a steady clip, in a blending set. The k9 or cat body structure is the neck goes into a vertical point of the chest down to the front legs. so lets say a fox has a average front leg length say 7 to 9 inches and a 5 to 6 inch vertical chest cavity rise, this gives roughly 12 to 14 inches to the top of the back. So a loop of 7 to 9 inches set at 7 to 8 inches to the bottom of the loop will hit the fox on the vertical portion of the chest. a outward movement of the bottom of the snare will trigger the snare and the forward motion of the animal helps keep the snare closing. If and when the fox feels the cable closing the instinct is to move forward, which means when it gets to the end of the cable pull the cable will set for the lock (Kink)positive cable set. To prove this point grab a fox by the tail most of time they will leap forward, Most not all LOL. a lock set at 10 and 2 will hesitate a split sec and then spring forward on a proper tuned snare. The outward swing of the bottom of the snare relieves the lock pressure on the cable.

On animals that climb, like coon and groundhogs, they have a habit of climbing over rather than push through. watch a coon or groundhog work through a bush pile, you will see what I am referring to. so in a blended set, they do not see the snare bottom and will move through, but on a open set they see the circle, and in fact they do go right through it, but if the cable is low they will in fact step through the loop. most think you need a 8 inch loop for hogs and coon because they look very big body wise, yet look at the den hole, most are 4 to 6 inches round for both. also most coon in my area have front leg length of 6 to 7 inches and hogs 4 to 5 inches. The body cavity of a hog is 3 to 4 inches so a 8 to 9 inch to the top of the back. Now here is where the major differences comes to play from the k9. So coon and hogs the chest and neck are a slope not a vertical. there really is no stop and push forward on them. For example a 8 inch set 4 inches to the bottom of the loop the base of the neck pushed down on the snare rather than out, but in fact the loop is being stepped through also with the front leg so there is even more downward pressure on the snare. a lock set at 10 and 2 now loses the swing release motion and now just wedges somewhat, until the animal is almost through the snare and thus we get a back haunch catch or a pull through. I want a downward trigger on these open sets. the snare is tuned so the lock will be at the 1 to 11 position and fires on the downward push. I want as light a cable as I can use. not for speed but for lock cable set. If you do get a neck closing catch, and the hog or coon feels it, the first thing they do is stop and back up not lunge forward. the proof of this is grab a coon or hog by the tail they swing back to fight. so they will not move forward to get the cable lock set and it will come off as the neck and head are the same size. (Back out) pole snare a coon by the neck and it pulls out seat belt hold with the pole and it is yours.

In ADC I could care less if it is a neck catch, seat belt or a hunch catch. matter fact if I have to put it into a cage to take it away I WANT A SEAT BELT OR Haunch catch so I can get the pole snare on it. back 40 or fur I want a neck catch but then again any catch is fine as I can't skin if it ain't caught LOL

Jonesie, I really hate to disappoint you but; although my experience with snares is limited and also legal in our state, my success with them has been above average. I've been reading your advice to the readers and to be honest with you, it is, in my humble opinion, something that they get for free and really should pay for.

I'm sure there are a bunch people that are as good as you, but putting all this knowledge into understandable words is a blessing!

P.S. Do us a favor: After two or three sentences, skip two lines. I know the post will be longer but a lot easier to separate. Does anyone disagree?

I look at this way. Any and all information I can get, the better I like it. I imagine there are a lot of guys who would rather gloss over things, but I get on here to try to learn and understand why and how someone does something different. I would be a complete fool to think I know it all. I get a lot of younger trappers in our area who want to learn from me and I offer all the advise I can. But I also tell them I don't know it all and tell them to get on here and start asking questions.

Sorry Paul and others, I was in a rush and missed a lot of punctuation and sentence flow. You should see Bob Noonan with my stuff, it is easy 2 hours of talking on the phone.

This one thing I Know and truly believe. This is not just talk, I know there are many many people, that know much more than I in the ADC fields.