I am starting this because I am interested in everything and anything that you guys could share about wolf trapping. What traps you use and why, what snares you use, how you make your snares if you make them, different sets, successful sets.

Rueben, you are asking for an awful lot of information. If you can narrow down your question I'm sure you'd get the help you need. The Alaska Trappers Association will be releasing a new wolf trapping manual and video within a month, hopefully. Good luck

so maybe just what type of snare's?

I just hoped that this would end up like the marten thread. People just add information that is useful when they can. I can't because I have not trapped wolves.

I bought a bunch of 1/8 7x7 Alaskan Wolf Snares from snare shop. I haven't set them as we don't have a very large concentration of wolves in our area that we trap.

I know a lot of guys use the #9 Alaskan footholds as they are large and can come up through a ridiculous amount of snow. They are also very expensive, so some of the guys on here opt for buying CDR and MB 750's.

Here are some sets that I have heard of, but have never tried. I know wolves will follow snowmachine tracks, so some guys will plant a foothold right on top of a previous wolf track in hopes they will return and step into the same print.

I also know of some guys that will make bait stations for those uneducated wolves. They will then put snares all over and maybe even a few footholds. Naturally, if you can find a dead moose or caribou, this would make a an awesome set. What I've been told is if you can catch one, the rest will scatter and hopefully run into the MANY snares you have set for them.

One more set is to find a piss post and plant a foothold there. They will come back and mark their territory.

Takotna, Dusty, Wayne Hall.....those are the guys with the skills. Maybe they will chime in.

I want to get a hold of that DVD as soon as it comes out.

there are some #9's on craigs list for sale...

Rueben : Alaska trappers.org ( go to links of interest - Ak trappers forum ) has a video advertisement at the top of the page. It shows some snare building basics and you can order a video. Others may offer some insight on this thread as they have time. Many are trapping right now.

I make all my wolf snares out of 5 feet of #9 wire crimped to 5 feet of 1/8 1X19 with no swivel. I like setting them on kills that I find along the line and also make some big bait piles with beaver and other carcasses and set my snares back from them in a big circle. I know I am personally guilty of probably not setting enough snares at both of these types of locations.
For footholds I have a couple of scent post that I set I use both the CDR and the #9 I save the #9s for places I know the snow drifts more and use the CDRs where it tends to blow away. I have been very impressed with the hold the CDR gets but if you have wolverines they have alot of space between the jaws and the frame that allows for chewing and others who have experince with both speicies tend to prefer the MB750 as an alternative.
I have very small hands and working with any of these big traps tends to put my fingers in bad places and the MB and its trigger system was the worst of all for that so I traded mine away with no regrets.

I didn't mean to leave otterman out and anybody else for that matter.

Wheres that at??

I have a few Alaskan footholds but most of mine are 7 in. X 7 in. made here in BC traps. They both work well but I like my BC made traps because they have laminated jaws. I have heard from other wolf trappers that the Bridger is a good trap and cheaper.
I am a renagade when it comes to wolf snaring. I use a 1/16 or 5/64 aircraft cable 12 ft. long. I caught my first wolf in a 1/16 lynx snare about 20 years ago. Since then, I experimented and now only use the smaller size cables.
Many of the trappers here use 3/32 but nobody uses 1/8 th anymore. Some of us take about 20 wolves a year.

I use 10' 7x7 snares from the snare shop some #9 and a few mb750. I like big baits guarded by about 20 snares, been not enough snow to make them follow their tracks and the last 3 of a pack are being dificult with snares so now come the traps this weekend for some piss sets. It's good to mix up snare/trap sets,(even though I don't follow my own advice) snares are so much easier for me to keep working and I mostly stick with them till they wise up, they catch on quick when a set takes a member or two, keep an open mind and don't stick with one or two sets. I try to make all my sets when it's snowing or going to snow to cover up everything.

Takotna I think it was white17 who told me he used the mb750 wolf and liked it real well. You like it? I use a lot of standard mb750s on my beaver line. Last batch I ordered I got one with the wolf springs just out of curiosity. Kinda of suprised me, easily as strong as my CDR's.

The few I have I really like, I've only caught a few with them but were caught real good, I love the #9 but the price/weight of them I'll be buying MB750 if I need them.

All,

Help is on the way. You should soon be able to purchase the new ATA Wolf Trapping DVD and Wolf Trapping Manual. I would look for both within the next few weeks. Just in time for late season wolf trapping.

I have it on good authority that a there is detailed info on how to build the best wolf snares in that manual. With detailed drawings as well.

(I know this because I worked on editing the manual for the past year and a half.....!)

Pete

Pete, I can't wait for that to come out. Is there a way to pay a head of time and get one of the first copies?

I am not aware of any advance sale program. But the finished products will be available soon.

Both the manual and the DVD turned out REALLY nicely. I think even the most critical among us are going to be impressed! Literally thousands of hours of work went into production of these.

Hopefully they will make ATA some money too!

Pete

Pete, how will we know when they are available? Will they advertise in The Trapper, Trapper's World, etc? Good to hear you're still kicking, by the way.

Rick,

We will be advertising in a bunch of places, including Trapper/Predator Caller, American Trapper, etc.

And I will make it a point to blab about it on here too!

Pete

will lures made for coyotes work on wolf also?

What type of snare locks do you prefer for wolf?

Sometimes wolves will respond to coyote lures. Usually it is just curious young wolves.

I try not to use ANY lure. I always hark back to what a really good wolf trapper told me: "If you want to catch wolfs, put your trap where the wolfs are going to step....."

It sounds silly until you think it through. You will catch a lot more wolves by learning their behavior and being pretty sure where they will go, than you will by putting in a trap and then trying to "lure" the wolf over to someplace he wasn't meaning to go. Think about it.

I prefer the Thompson locks with the hacksaw cut that makes it a breakaway that will almost always release a moose.

Pete

Pete any idea on the cost of the Manual and DVD?

Not sure what they decided. Last I heard, they were each somewhere around USD$25 each, plus postage and handling, but no final decision had been made.

Pete

Yes this is great news indeed ! I cant wait to get that set in my collection ! And yes it is good to see your out and about Pete . I may figure out how to post pictures again on here .
And yes the Mtn. is all snowed in . as is the Buffalo pasture .
Best Wishes , amtrapper

Amtrapper, what kind of wolf population do you have in your area? Have they figured out how to kill the buffalo, or do they key in on the elk?

if your trapping on a logging road i find a nice blue spruce or something of the sort the is very bushing and drag it accross the road and cut out 2 openings only requires a little cutting just to make the hole slightly noticeable and i hang a snare in it so the when the wolf gets to the tree he goes through the openign and gets caught works awesome but make sure you got a deer stop on there as you will probably get anything that is walking that road.

Our Wolf Pop. is strong as ever and growing even if the Montana FWP will tell ya different . I've seen 2 I would say without a doubt were wolves and one that could have been a super coyote , LOL but as far as hard and fast numbers I'm not sure . But then FWP isn't certain either . They still haven't made a ruling on the " Wolf " or "Wolf Hybred" that killed a bunch of sheep over near Jordan as of yet . My best guess is at least a dozen maybe in this area from talking with ranchers . but then the way they travel who knows ????? I did find out that the Northern Elk herd at Yellowstone is down to under 10,000 head imagine that one will ya .
Best Wishes , amtrapper

Anone ever tried the Sleepycreek #4 1/2 or #5 Wolf yet???

I was looking at the Sleepy Creek traps today, they look well made and heavy enough to do the job. My wolf trapping this winter is more or less a graduate school for them my only hope is they'll get senile before I do.

Nothing like Wolf trapping to get the boys going. We're putting on a wolf trapping school on Feb 17th which should be a blast.

Personally I use footholds and snares both. #9's & MB750's, snares are 3/32" or 1/8 cable. I also cut a length of #9 wire and crimp my snare loop directly to the cable. Some of my #9 wire is 5' long which enables me to anchor way back and still get a snare where I want it. I use 1/8 thompson locks on both size cable but use a gun checkering file on the locks shoulder. Lock grabs hold better and won't back off. My snares are set high as i want them to catch the wolf right under his chin and lock down quickly. Bait piles catch a lot more then uneducated wolves if done right. I use a lot of snares at a bait site and place some quite aways away. You can take a significant portion of the pack if you have enough snares out. I like blind sets for footholds and use deep snow to my advantage. Wolves can't resist a fresh trail in deep snow. Also use hair from my malamutes balled up and buried with a set in front. Look forward to others comments.

IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/Bushman22/filedlock.jpg[/IMG]

I have had problems with my boots slipping off the levers of my #9s so last year I started modifying all my #9s by welding a small peice of steel angle to the ends of the levers and used a small grinder to make serations in the part that is sticking up. My boots stay on the levers much better now. (I know, I have sinned by saying that #9s aren't perfect!) As usual my photography leaves much to be desired.

Bushman says, "I use 1/8 thompson locks on both size cable but use a gun checkering file on the locks shoulder. Lock grabs hold better and won't back off."


The picture showed looks like you are using cam locks? If you are using the thompson locks, how are you modifying them?

Bearbait,

You should try some of the setters for the #9. They are nice. My partner had a [I'madork] of a time setting them with his feet, so he looked at the photo Dean Jr. had posted on the "other" forum and made a set. Gator might have a picture handy. I won't be able to get you a picture until next Monday when I get back off the line. I lost one of the setters, but can set easily by hand now even with one.

Northway, you are right about the setters if you are talking about the all metal ones. the first ones had wooden handles with a piece of metal on one end with a slot in them. they worked good but are no where as safe as the all metal ones.

Now to see if I have figured out how to post here.

God Bless America
Trapper

This is the only pic I have of the setters I use, I'll have to dig them out and take one of just the setters. I actually didn't use them this year, I just set them by hand on a small piece of plywood. VERY carefully I might add! I also have a set of the wooden ones that Trapper refered to, I'll find those and take a pic as well.

Just looks like something else to lose out on the line. I carry a small piece of 3/4" plywood and step on the springs, works so far. I guess if my belly gets to big to bend over I better get rid of the machines and start walking.

I might not have to worry about wolves much longer, government is out on my line right now in choppers gunning down wolves. Supposed to be helping out the caribou.

TrapperJoe - Sorry fingers going fasted then brain , meant cam-locks

Gator Jr, that is them. they work really good for use old folks.

Thanks

God Bless America
Trapper

One advantage of CDR's Paws-I-Trip pan is that they can be hauled around set with the pan pulled all the way up. A little wire over the dog and jaw and frame lets you do the same thing with #9s.

I still carry setters on a lanyard around my neck - I'm often walking down a wolf trench in their footprints to set a trap, and I need to be able to set it over my knee if the pre-set trap suddenly becomes un-set....

Gator, Thanks for the picture. I sure like the trap setters. Trapper, they just make setting them safer. I know I've been out setting them with my boots when it was cold and the fingers weren't working that great and then a boot slips......... almost got caught a # of times! I am sure that would leave a mark!

Better clarify something here. I go in under the lose jaw on a #9 to set pan, I like my fingers too much. Can't do that with an MB750 though.

The late Jimmy Walters had a #9 go off accidentally while he was adjusting the pan one time. It caught his thumb with the part just OUT OF the offset section.

Took a chunk right out of his thumb!

Be careful!

Pete

That is one of the reasons I dislike the MB750. You can't reach under the jaws to set making it a trap I don't like to set because of that. I spend a lot of time checking and setting traps in the dark, and I do not like not being able to reach under the jaws to set the MB's

You can go under the jaw of an MB750 to pull the pan down into position. I do it all the time. Just hold it by the center link and put your finger up under the jaw. You can put your finger up under the jaw to push the pan up as well. I know I set the things several hundred times a season. I know you have to push the dog lever down with your thumb kinda inside the jaws but if you push the pan up theres no way it can go off. Several hundred times a season for quit a few years and Ive never had one go off.

I almost had one get me this weekend, i was resetting at a lynx cubby and it wouldn't bed firm, so I pushed down on it rather hard, and wham.... I pushed down on the levers to hard and the pan fell down. I kind of had to take a moment there.

Let me finish this...."I kind of had to take a moment there and clean my shorts out"

I know it's not the same, but I had a 120 go off while I was setting it.....thank God the safeties where still on!

I know. I had a CDR go off in my hands a while back. I just about left a yellow slick in the water,LOL

I just have a [I'madork] of a time with the clean gloves on, etc. setting the MB's as safely as other traps. They are my last wolf trap I set. I set all my #9's, 114's, 4 1/2's, 14's, 48's before the MB's. I am going to bring some out with me this weekend and set. I don't think I have given them enough of a try to see how they work. I never liked how much tension the pan has on them either. JMO. I guess when something doesn't work as well for me as other things, I tend to push it to the side.

Northway, are you saying that the MB750 has too much pan tension for your liking? Do you use pan tension on 9's or leave them free? I agree on the difficulty in setting the MS750's with gloves on. I own 1 MB750, which I got just to see what it was like, and haven't bought any more. Maybe I didn't give it enough practice, but they just scare me.

I can see how getting your finger under the pan could be an aggrevation with the gloves you guys up there have to wear. The one trap that bothers me setting with my hands is the #14 jump. Its kinda hard to hold on to and the teeth can hurt, bad. I love to use them though. Heck of a beaver trap. I wish I had enough #14 and #48 DLS's to use(You cant afford to buy the dang things anymore). I wouldent even bother with the MB750's and CDR's then.

bearbait,

Yeah, I don't like how much tension it has on the pan. I don't set my tension to "fine" on my wolf traps, but I do want them fairly light. I guess I just don't like messing with those MB's because of the difficulty to set, etc.

KYBOY,

I have a few of those 14 jumps and a few 48's. Good traps. I use the jumps for wolverine, but the 48's for wolves and wolverines.

Mike

I traded all my MBs to white17 same reasons as you guys. My hands are small and no matter what the wolf trap I almost always have to put my digets at risk just getting the jaws open and then setting the pan in place the MBs where worse then anything I have ever worked with I have gone to the CDR unless I am setting a place I know drifts in bad then the few #9s I own come out. All in all with my wide open tundra and wolves that walk where wever they want most the time my best bet is finding a kill and using snares or setting up a big bait pile with them

Well guys, I might be committing heresey here, but I leave the "loose" jaw up on the 750's when I set them so only one jaw is pinned down by the levers. Makes it so it doesn't set quite as flat as it would with both jaws retained, but my fingers are a heck of a lot safer. I don't use the wolf model, just the beaver ones; but they are plenty big enough to make me think twice about me lovely phalanges. As KYBOY says, you can reach up through the bottom to twiddle the pan, but it's tough to do with gloves on.

My 2 cents if it's worth that. I've retired all my 114's and 4 1/2, 48 newhouses for collecting. Man, those 114's are deadly. These traps were given to me by some old timers years ago and they were old then. I couldn't even guess to how many toes those traps squeezed. Since then I've gone to #6 and #7 Livestock Protection traps (they've since come out with an 8 that looks pretty impressive.) Alaska #9s, Bridger #5's, Sleepy Creek 4 1/2 and 5. Trapping around salt water we like to favor the long springs. The coils seem to take a pretty good beating. But for dry sets they are hard to beat for ease of concealment. I know a lot of guys frown on this, but I've seen probably 25 wolves caught in the #5 Bridger. For some reason I couldn't remember this at the beginning of the season.In fact I posted a question on the other forum. My old trapping partner had to set me straight at the cost of a good ribbing. Anyway, holding strength is more than adequate, downside is they probably won't hold up to some serious chewing and I lose dogs and pans sometimes on a catch. I also anchor the chain to the trap frame and get rid of the stock long spring connection. I've had good luck with these traps in my particular application. 5 in Bridgers so far this year. Under different conditions I understand why guys don't like them. Compared to a Sleepy Creek,Livestock,Alaska, or Newhouse they are the lowest quality.
This is my first year with the Sleepy Creeks and have only caught one in a 4 1/2. Nice high catch. These look like a very well built trap. Others have had reservations about their jaw rivet durability so they have drilled these out and installed bolts. They look fine to me but only time will tell. I also wish they had teeth. The 5 came with teeth and is one bad looking hombre. It is a big trap. Downside is it is farely expensive compared to a 4 1/2 and I have reservations about the inline spring. I like the SC pan/dog set up. I love it for setting. I'm setting the traps under six inches of murky water alot and with the Sleepy Creeks I can just push the pan up as far as it will go (they will not go off) and then I lift the trap out of the water and adjust the pan to where I want. They are fast and there is alot less danger to the old fingys. They are also very stout. I haven't spent a lot of time playing around with tension adjustment on the SC though.
Livestock Protection Company are a nice trap. Besides some other local trappers I haven't heard many people talk about them. They have a web page and they are expensive. They also come out of Texas so shipping is a killer. I don't really care for the stock pan/dog set up. These are a snap happy trap if you don't make some modifications. Years ago I had just finished meticulously making a dry set and I was standing there admiring my handiwork when I noticed one blade of grass on my covering I didn't like(yeah I'm a stickler). Instead of doing the smart thing and getting a small stick to flick this grass off with being the genius I am I went in with a gloved hand. Next thing I knew I had this sucker hanging off my middle finger on my middle knuckle. Cracked my finger and swelled up to the size of a german sausage. New shorts please. And I DEFINITELY remember what make of trap that was.
For the money I would go with the SC 4 1/2. If you want the best and got the bucks-Alaska #9,SC 5,Livestock 8s. Just my observations. Always like hearing others opinions and observations.

Here is my opinion...... I bet that hurt!

Pete

just in case anyone is interested here is th LPC website.
http://livestockprotection.net/
Im going to buy a couple for my collection soon. I would love to have a load of #8's for my beaver line..

Pete-Yes it hurt. Not as bad as you would think. It didn't really kick in until I got home. It must have been the 2 gallons of adrenaline squirted directly into my heart the second I heard the snap. Believe it or not my very first thought was "oh @#% this thing is wired to a HEAVY drag". I guess I didn't think it was coming off. Then I was just thankful it didn't grab my whole hand. Cabelas Glove ad SHOULD read-"water-proof, warm, and for those of you that are going to stick your hand in a wolf trap, they will greatly increase your chance of keeping all your fingers" To this day my heartrate goes up everytime I set a trap no matter what the size. I guess you could say that was one of my life altering experiences. LOL

Glad it wasn't worse, waterboy. Did that trap have teeth? The #7's we used in Wyoming did, but we rounded them off so they were more like studs.

Getting nailed that way can make you have some serious thoughts, all right. I got my hand caught in a piece of farm machinery many years ago. I was on the back side of a hill in a field over a mile from the house and nobody was going to come looking for me for at least another 12 hours. I was lucky in that I had a crescent wrench within reach and was able to dismantle things and get myself out in about 20 minutes or so. Smashed three of my fingers totally flat. Dang! but that did smart! Almost gave up trapping right there.....but not quite.

Rick- You got me going now. Yeah, the 7s have teeth and they are sharp! The sleepy creek #5 has teeth that you can practical sew with. I haven't ground them down yet. Here's another new edition from my personal archives of DS attacks. Earlier this year I was swapping out some #9s I had in some tide pool sets so I could re-dip them. Well I walked up to the set and stepped on the #9 and was going to gently back my foot off until the trap gently closed. Done it a thousand times as I'm sure all of you have. Things were going just fine but I had these stupid hip boots on with a big rubber ridge. The trap slowly closed all right. Right onto this ridge and my little toe! I was able to squeeze my toe out but I was STUCK. I tried getting my hand on one side and my free boot on the other but I was bound in there at a weird angle. Lucky my wifes little brother was with me or I would have had to pop the boot and free it in socks. This was in about a foot of water. I was supposed to be showing my brother in law the tricks of the trade. I'm sure I impressed him with my trapline prowess.

Yeah, I'll bet he was impressed :). Isn't it funny how every time you do something really smart nobody is looking, but whenever you try to puff your chest a little things go to crap?

I knew an old-time government trapper who was setting a 4 1/2 Newhouse for a lion and somehow got both hands in it. He was a small man and said he wasn't heavy enough to depress the springs to release himself. Luckily he could move the drag. He made it to a clump of aspen and got between two trees. He put the trap against one tree and braced his back against another one while pushing the springs down with his feet. The extra leverage enabled him to get out of the trap. Makes me sore just thinking about it!

Since you are talking about wolves, here is one that was robbing our marten line. We set out several #4's and picked up 2 wolves and 5 wolverine in them. They were short chained to trees and held by two staples. I think they are a little small, but hey, if they work, dont knock it.

The other two wolves we caught were in snares.

Nice pics. That second wolf is gorgeous. Where bouts you at? I'm going to guess at the north end of the "handle".
When I started out I set some #4 longsprings and #4 jumps with double twist link chain despite warnings. I caught two wolves. Then I had three traps in a set literally crushed to bits (no wolf) and I had another wolf break that twist link chain like it was nothing. Caught him fifty yards away in a snare though, trap and all.And these were on drags. You may want to consider up grading a bit. I definitely don't want to sound like some know-it-all (I'm far from it), but since you seem to have a pretty good knack for getting those things to step in a trap I thought I would mention what happened to me.
Congratulations on the nice animals and keep up the good work.

ok wolf guys I had a bummer today I have a set two traps one in a trail one at the scent post about 40 feet apart. after waiting all season the wolves came through and I missed them. I have never been able to see previous catches approaches as they came befor the snow and got caught, However this time was different all 6 wolves approched the set some went on the trap side of the little spruce trees some went on the other side. trap side wolf stepped on the jaws and didnt scratch or nothing another went down the trail and stepped on the jaws of the trail set so two complete misses man I was bummed Dumb me never checked the trap placement closely after the last snow. What has me scratching my head is why the wolf on the other side of the tree peed and scratched the area up this is three lone spruce trees on a bluff above a creek the surrounding area is wide open tundra. IS it just the alpha and thats the side he chose did they smell something ? I dont think so cause they hit the jaws and never broke stride just kept walking. In the past I orrignally found the set while moose hunting and set the trap on the side with the wolf crap on it. Should I set a trap on the opoosite side of the trees? and leave the others in place that would put 4-6 traps in a 60 foot area what you all think? Dang wolves anyway

Wish I had the answer to that one...and many others of my own. They will make you pull hair out I swear. A couple days ago I had seven sets to check. Nothing doing in the first three. Had time to kill waiting for the tide to access the others so I figured I would sit and howl and drink coffee. I thought at the very least I could keep the old vocal cords in shape, but maybe something would answer and I could go in on them, or better yet something would pop out. Anyway, it had been snowing hard, for a few hours, about six inches had built up below the tide line, but it stopped and suddenly became crystal clear with a nice blue sky. I thought "man, these are great conditions to see something." This lasted about a half hour and began snowing pie plates again. I was wet and cold and though I'm usually patient while calling I decided I would try and make it to the next set. I jumped in the skiff and slowly putted my way across the bay. It was only about 400 yards,but visibilty was maybe fifty. I hit the beach by the set and started walking to the timber. I cut a smokin fresh set of tracks in the mud heading to the set. Then they cut through the snow and they were in the intertidal snow, but there was a small skim on top of those. It really didn't register with me that those tracks were less than a half hour old. I saw that they were snowed in and my thinking was well I either got him or he's long gone. The tracks headed straight down the beach and past my set anyway. I went up and checked it out and then made a large swath in the timber to see if a wolvy was in the area. Big drainage and nice creek, had potential. Didn't see anything. So I start walking back to the skiff and I figure I'll go check out the tracks one more time since it's the only thing of interest I'd seen all day. I took one turn and caught something out of the corner of my eye. At first I thought it was an otter playing around at the water line. Then a monsterous wolf busted out of a snow bank headed full tilt away from me. The movement I'd seen was him busting through some ice and piling into a snow bank in his haist to vacate. Gun in the skiff. I knew he was long gone, but I went up to check out the story. Plain as day in the snow, like reading a book, he was coming to see what my howlin was about, hit the beach and started cruising towards my set, he passes my set about the same time it starts snowing hard and I jump in the skiff. At this point he was up wind. I hit the beach and walk into my set and do my search for wolverine sign about the same time he gets downwind and smells my set. He turns around and starts coming in. He's sixty yards away when I stumble out with my head to the ground looking for his tracks! He had probably a good thirty seconds of free escape time before I caught that movement. As I was running to the skiff in a vain attempt to get my gun I howled over my shoulder. It was a pathetic sound, but he did stop for a second and looked back. If I had packed my rifle with me I would have had a nice 150-200 yard shot. Heck I was even standing next to a huge rock/perfect rest if I wanted it. Bummed me out. Timing is everything.
I was on a little dry spell there-frustrations abounding-and now all of a sudden I'm kind of on fire(for me anyway) Picked up my sixth in the last eight days today. But still had two more passes, this time it was obviously my fault. I didn't pay attention to the creek level falling off with all this cold and snow and half my #9 was sticking out for all the world to see. Heck you guys probably saw it from where you are. Man, that drives me crazy. I've waited three weeks for this pack to come through and I let this happen. And on another pee set, the big snow fall just pushed em right off the trap, just like always happens around here. Snow, rain, freeze, rain, snow, freeze, freeze, freeze, rain, rain, snow, sun, rain, rain, freeze, snow. You get the idea. I feel your pain brotha.

how long of a chain does anybody run off their wolf traps, #9's and mb750's??? I was thinking of 10 feet per trap? to much? would 5 feet work?
oh, and there will be a drag on there also.

I think the 9s come with 10'. Are you going to use steel grapples or logs?

I use 10 feet of chain and steel grappling hooks. The area I trap is fairly brushy. You wouldn't want to set these on a river.

I use about ten feet as well. I started going a little bit longer on my newer setups due to the fact that making water sets like I do sometimes the water won't be deep enough close to the set to cover my drag if I'm using a boom chain and that little bit may get me there. Of course this doesn't matter if I'm using a large rock. The chains are way faster and more handy but some sets call for the rock. Not sure what length would be considered too short, but ten feet seems to come up quite often when using a drag.

From Wayne Hall

Woklf pee-post set. Charred post for the attractor/post. This set was just re-made when I took the photo because I have to remove the #9 when I go by so I don't catch a dog. The trail is my DOG trail. Substitute a moose or caribou femur or a shed antler for the post and it becomes a combo wolf/wolverine set..which is what I do use most of time.


Wolf snare in trail

Posted by Takotna
I packed a burnt log about 2ft long to an open area and just tossed it a few feet from the trail to see what would happen, a couple trips later a couple wolves followed the trail and one male peed on it so set a trap in the footsteps and had one a few weeks later. Think I'll try that again. You don't want none of the charcoal dust over the traps or they may be showning when the sun comes out.

Speaking of the burnt logs, does anyone make their own to use on the line? What kind of wood? How burnt is it? How thick is it? Was thinking of making some for next season, just to try out and see. Do they work on Coyotes and Fox too?

-TJ

Question asked by Reuben
for wolf traps what is a good setup for chain and swivels?
I've seen some pics with cable attached to the trap, would this work for wolves or would they be likely to bite the cable in half?
I am going to try for them next year so I would like any input.
thanks

Reply from Alaskancajun
use MB (Minn Trapline Prod) 750 wolfer's Double laminated with the offset jaws. Then I have 10 foot of chain with MB crunch proof swivels every 3 feet!



I know it seems like overkill but I don't want to be the guy who has wolverine tracks approaching a set and no trap or fur to show for it!

I set that bad boy with my feet in flip flops.....



Here's my Lynx set up, a #4 DLS with plenty of chain and swivels to hold anything!

- Clint
Reply from Dusty
I have 10 foot of chain with MB crunch proof swivels every 3 feet!

That's about what I run, but I won't set a wolf trap without the swivels being welded shut - looks like yours aren't.

I have quite a few burnt areas and just grab one from there, next year I'm going to try a log out of the wood stove and while still coals singe a bunch of stupid chichen feathers over it and try.

In the AKA wolf trapping manual an editor'note say one of the best wolfers in AKA Danny Grangaard has wrote an article in the Alaska trappers magazine 1984 november issue about his various wolf trapping methods.Where can i get a copy of this issue or do someone having it will want share this info with us?

ATA I think has back issues for sale.

Thanks White 17

Paysho,

You can call the Cutting Edge (ATA retail outlet) and ask about that specific issue.

907-452-7277

Pete

Thanks Pete