Looking at getting a few of the killer koros for squirrels any advice on size or how to rig em? Thanks

Word on the street there's gonna be a much better lethal trap..... Hmmmm

If there is...send em this way!

I got this koro trap from wcs the other day it's a mean sucker . I'm going to build some 5" size ones for squirrel and mink here soon . Really like this trap I think it would smack anything stone dead that stuck its head in it .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3DIOj77uUY&feature=youtube_gdata_player

These Ports are used to house your Belisle 120's or Bridger 159 single spring traps. They mount with any of the 4 folding wings and can be set to contain the squirrel after Trap firing.

*Just another option to have in the truck for certain situations where lethal is desired.

Double as a nose cone to looks like

Pesky , I just got the small one the other day to see what there like , kind of like a body grip which pretty much means here bait can't be visible from above which means the top , back and sides pretty much have to be covered.

I was thinking more of a blind set but yes if your using bait you would need a cubby box or just set it along a wall might work . There's a few different types but all very strong

You talking about the one in Pesky's video? Looks interesting.

Never mind, Bud, I now realize you have your own rat and squirrel trap you are putting out. Good luck with it.

Is that Koro trap in Pesky's video new, or has that design been around for awhile? I've never used one.

Been making those for years now

I made this one about a month ago. Got frustrated with a cheap trap and changed things up a bit. I call it the triple threat. Caught 2 greys the first day it was set. Caught a total of 6 in it, while the two live traps right beside it only caught 2.

A square weasel box with Koros works good.I bent a couple aluminum u's , hole in each end, and Koros.Koros have a smaller footprint than a rat snap trap.The floor , ends , and 2 inches of the top is 1 U.The sides and top are the other U.

Was that there rodent trap Kermit . Steve that's the koro fisher trap it's made for setting on a log that's angled up . They place a cubby box at the upper end and gaurd the open end . The trap chain is suspended up in the air so the animal is hung up off the ground to protect it from other animals eating it . It's kinda like a half conibear trap with twice the power . The animal never knows what happened I'm sure of that . It's made for that purpose but I'm sure it would do other jobs . The reason I bought it was to see how it's made . I plan to build a few smaller for squirrel and change the angle of the jaws some so it slides up under over hangs . If the trap was made so when it's set the jaws are on a 16 degree angle that would match a 4/12 pitch roof this way there's no need to fence off around the trap . Squirrel chew in up under these over hangs that are laying on the main roof . I'll make 24 , 32, 45 degree angled jaws for 6,8,12 / 12 pitch roofs . Not sure how I'll rework the springs yet but have a couple ideas ill try . That works might try a larger size for coon . I'm kinda surprised that this cage trap makers don't built a soffit trap thats angled to fit under over hangs like this . Very common problem the ADC trapper faces building these funnels when they should be reaching for a soffit trap that's angled to slide under the over hang for making quick positive sets on roofs . Every thing is square why ? /

Pesky , How about one with the pan set back far enough back so it can be put on a tree or ground where a coon will get far enough in so that if he reaches for the bait and set's it off , he in far enough to get him and not just his legs , but your right these are strong traps. And if your building some ,maybe something with the front part can be adjusted to go up and down to keep level , say on roofs logs etc..

The pan looks about right . It's the angle on the jaws I like change