When trapping South of Macon and south of Montgomery in the summer, I have found due to various factors relating to heat and humidity, water temperature, and availability of food the beaver respond differently than other parts of the country. They may come the first time to the castor, but they are more easily spooked or cautious overall with "any" new smell. They may investigate it and get caught the first time, the others seem to treat the catches as time to hold and not move. Due to that nature here in the summer I believe any first night trap set up should be planned with that factor in mind.

Using scent of some kind seems to always inhance the catch the first night. It is the second night or down the road catch that I have found to be a bummer in the deep south.

I have been guilty over the years of taking the easy road the first night's set in the summer and not planning for the next successive nights well enough.

Thanks.I caught beev#1 in a comstock type trap,and the advanced trap I ordered just came in( well built Kirk!good job!) But i' m not sure if beev #2 will enter it,i` m still looking at that option.I have been procrastinating on buying a Koro\ Bailey trap because they are so expensive,but i'm afraid that is what it will take to nab this beev#2.there are no castor mounds present( I have not seen too many here in north florida) and I could acquire a permit from FWC to use foothold but these state workers would freak out, they use the path around the pond to jog ect...even on weekends.I also had several tripped sets that were possibly caused by some of them that don` t want the beaver caught( they would rather see all the holly bushes and trees destroyed) some really weird people.....so I have searched the forums for a used trap that I can buy a little cheaper.thanks for the input,I will keep up with this thread,( I am so ready to use a snare! )

I sure didn,t have a clue that trap was going to a person posting on this forum when I put it in the box.
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If you have a koro or hancock, I would suggest you place mine with lure in the back on a tuff of grass as is on my videos on my you-tube channel(several showing this trap). Place the koro or two, if you have them, to the side of my trap. Set the traps in 8" of water if possible. Use no scent in the koros, but use pealed sticks you make along with some debree above the koros or handcocks pan.Make sure the set is made to where it would be difficult for the beaver to get close to the back of the traps set.

The investigating beaver would have about an equal chance geting caught in one or the other. In the winter I would put my money on the scented trap working first drawing the second beaver to the koro. Since you have already caught one, I believe it is about 50-50 now, if you make this set.

If you have the right situation (water depth and materials) you could place the koros to the side "almost" leaning them against my beaver-bobcat trap with no lure in the koros. Had you been able to do that the first night I believe you would have had at least two.

There still may be more smaller beaver and if the set is made close, but not too close to the den, you may catch one of them if you catch the larger beaver.

If you don,t have a koro, set my trap so that the back is in 3-4" of water and the water depth in the back or behind My trap is 1-2". Place the comstock perpendicular to my trap blocking the sides with debre so that the beaver would only be able to get close to the lure by entering comstocks, or mine from the front. Set comstocks with the doors on top not on bottom. Pile debre on top of the comstock so that to get closest to the scent he would have to enter either trap.If your water level is more than 2" in the comstock I don,t think there is enough clearence and you may get a refusal. One problem you may have, is catching a coon depending on what lure used.

You may want to bend the trigger wires up in my trap so that an investigating turtle will not set off the trap. Also place the lured grass up high so the approaching beaver would be more apt to rise hitting the trigger more solid.

If you can import a favorite bait from another area that the beavers love and don't have around that particular area and put that on your hancocks don't be afraid to use a bundle around 5 to 7 Inches thick and shave them a little but leave some stringy bark hanging off a few branches in the bundle. That set works well for me for catching beaver number 2 and 3. Hope it works for your!

I'm telling you that floating log thing drives them nuts

I will be making the set tommorrow,I will let y`all know how it went,we have had alot of rain from Debby,and I beleive all that mess is gone.

Wow!I took your advice Kirk,set up the advanced trap with the comstock perpendicular,and just added a fake slide for effect,two days later beev#2 was sitting in the advanced trap!! Thanks for the tip! I appreciate all the tips,they were pretty good ones,and i` ll use them down the road.

Oh-ya! , I did not mention the Woodchipper I put on a stave behind and to the right of the setup.it was the only lure I used,and I used willow limbs that were shaved( bark still clinging to)the thumb sized pieces. I also had a 3-4 foot long branch with an 1-1/4" limb I stuck into the ground,to appear to be a new/ different tree growing there( also shaved lower stalk) .took in alot of advice,although the floating green log was very interesting,will try that one on my next farm- job.

And not one single picture or video . Sure there was a beaver problem looks like pretend job

Just set a job yesterday ...straight Woodchipper ....I was still there and heard the familar Wack of a Koro..Beaver 1 down at high noon ...today had 3 more ...gonna see what tomorrow brings ........Thanks Don !!

Yup a Big Brown beaver! I already removed most the set,but you can see the comstock sitting perpendicular to the left

Not sure why pic did not load the 3 times I tried. 1 pic is beev# 1,(comstock) beev# 2 is in advanced trap

Finally......above is beev#2

Beev# 1

This shows how you can make another set with that trap.
Opened plugged pipe and set trap in front. Used sticks to hold trap level. Water was about 11"deep in trap. Took this one out this morning.This is old model not powdercoated and no powered door.

Placed clipped branches at outside edge of back of trap.Stuck them upright where water was going through(outside edge of pipe) to help get beaver to enter trap.