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#2470980 - 02/26/11 01:10 AM snares buy or build?
AKscott Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/07/07
Posts: 137
Loc: north pole, AK
well most of my animals this year came from snares so i am looking into gear for next year i want some do it all snares for cats,yote and fox i got yotes and a fox this year in the snare shop northern beaver/fox snare with a 10in loop i was looking into building some and 1000ft of cable a cutter,camlocks,#11 wire and ends came out to $150 and by my math that is enough to make 29 snares then i saw you can get 5dz for like $80 but i want an extra 2ft. of wire on them and a cam lock so what would you guys do build or buy, another question i have is the top of the loop ends at the coils of #9 do you guys think this will shy some animals away or will they not notice it i only had 1 walk around this year and i think that was because i didnt fence it off enough but am wondering what you guys think.
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#2470996 - 02/26/11 01:49 AM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
HFT AK Offline
trapper

Registered: 12/26/08
Posts: 402
Loc: Wasilla AK
I build. The biggest expense are the loc's. Talk to 907trapper, he can get 11 and 9 gauge wire at a reasonable price.
Loop end? I use pig tails, and have not had anything issues.
The things I have noticed from cats and K9's, is
1. cable size, all the critters I caught this year were with 1/16, and I started out with a 50/50 mix with 3/32. I had about 5 refusals with 3/32. And other then a yote trying to jump thru one set for wolves, and a bunch of bunnies, zilch.
2. Loop size, to small three refusals.

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#2471006 - 02/26/11 02:33 AM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
AKbeardog Offline
trapper

Registered: 02/18/11
Posts: 0
Loc: Copper Center, AK
You should be able to make alot more than 29 snares with 1000ft of cable. Need to figure in more cam locks though.

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#2471016 - 02/26/11 03:41 AM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
AKscott Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/07/07
Posts: 137
Loc: north pole, AK
yea i suck at math i divided 33.5 cable length for 10in loop by 1000 not 12000 so that should make about 350 snares if i didnt screw something up again, what size loop would you recommend i have been using 10in but thought of going to 12 for a little extra room on yotes, and would you guys go swiveling or non swiveling, also i was thinking about going with #11 because the #9 is kinda hard to get tight on a tree would it hold a yote ok. the locks are a little spendy i think its $40 for 100 camlocks with teeth but for what foot holds cost its not a bad deal.
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#2471536 - 02/26/11 01:02 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
Family Trapper Offline
trapper

Registered: 12/23/06
Posts: 2087
Loc: Homer, Alaska
Go 6-8 feet cable and forget the wire for your secure attachment. I love having gone to all cable and no wire used to secure the snare. A small piece to hang but thats it. It is really nice at the end of the season to not have to deal with wire on snares. imo.
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#2471563 - 02/26/11 01:24 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: Family Trapper]
garyalaska Offline
trapper

Registered: 07/17/08
Posts: 1041
Loc: Alaska
Originally Posted By: Family Trapper
Go 6-8 feet cable and forget the wire for your secure attachment. I love having gone to all cable and no wire used to secure the snare. A small piece to hang but thats it. It is really nice at the end of the season to not have to deal with wire on snares. imo.



x2
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#2471596 - 02/26/11 01:59 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
akpawpincher Offline
trapper

Registered: 04/04/10
Posts: 73
Loc: Alaska
Like HFT, I like 1/16th for fox sized critters and build my own. I make mine around 60", using 7x7 (I like the way it slides), usually with a mini lock or micro lock, whammy's and a swivel. I also make a bunch of 3 to 4 foot extensions with loops on each end. I connect the extensions to the snares with a "square knot" (passed through each other at the swivel), and just wrap the extension around a tree and pull the whole thing through the loop at that end of the extension to fasten it. I use 9 or 11 gauge support wire. Very fast to set and pick up. When I catch something I save the components and rebuild a new snare. If the old snare still has usable length I'll turn it into an extension. I have some swivels and locks that are 8- 10 years old or older and have been recycled many times over. With the additional length, the critters usually wrap up away from the trail and I can reset without having to rebuild the site.
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Trapping and predator hunting since 1984: "So that others may live."

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#2471739 - 02/26/11 03:38 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: Family Trapper]
bctomcat Offline
trapper

Registered: 07/20/09
Posts: 196
Loc: 100 Mile House, BC Can
Originally Posted By: Family Trapper
Go 6-8 feet cable and forget the wire for your secure attachment. I love having gone to all cable and no wire used to secure the snare. A small piece to hang but thats it. It is really nice at the end of the season to not have to deal with wire on snares. imo.


X3
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#2471742 - 02/26/11 03:40 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
AKscott Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/07/07
Posts: 137
Loc: north pole, AK
so without using an extention how do you guys hook your snare to the tree do you use a double ferrel at the end then just feed the snare through the loop or use a split ring or what.
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#2471820 - 02/26/11 04:44 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
akpawpincher Offline
trapper

Registered: 04/04/10
Posts: 73
Loc: Alaska
Yes, run the snare back through the loop. I have some snares built without swivels, just loops, and they work good, but I get some that are very near the twisted up/ breaking point with this set up (I use one well hammered double ferrel for the loop ends, but would probably want to use two on each loop if going for bigger than fox or lynx). I like the swivel in line with an extension best because it lets the swivel work real well, easy to loop the extension around a tree, snare cable usually has little damage (still needs replacing of course), and like I said above, it gets the critters away from the set for a reusable location. If using a swivel on the end with no extension, wire the swivel to the tree to allow it to work properly. Swiveled snare with extension usually equals dead critter wrapped up off the main trail.




Edited by akpawpincher (02/26/11 04:59 PM)
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Trapping and predator hunting since 1984: "So that others may live."

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#2471854 - 02/26/11 05:04 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
bctomcat Offline
trapper

Registered: 07/20/09
Posts: 196
Loc: 100 Mile House, BC Can
Snare attached to the tree. Easily removed if no catch, otherwise wire cutters:



Short support wire on tree which is left on tree if location to be reused. Snare attached to support wire with duoble ferrule:




Edited by bctomcat (11/04/12 11:31 AM)
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#2471946 - 02/26/11 05:42 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
AKscott Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/07/07
Posts: 137
Loc: north pole, AK
ok that looks like its a little easy'r to remove with gloves on and will normal trappers wire support the snare good or should you use #11-9. i was also planning on using the steel nuts insted of the aluminum ferrels after the web page ft put up. so how does this sound 6ft 1/16 cable,camlock with teeth,wammy, i would like to put a swivel in the system and keep it easy and fast to set up how well do the inline swivels work,or should i use the #9 end and a small extension on that for an anchor.
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#2472014 - 02/26/11 06:10 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
bctomcat Offline
trapper

Registered: 07/20/09
Posts: 196
Loc: 100 Mile House, BC Can
For lynx and fox 1/16 cable snares normal 14ga trapping wire is all I use. For coyote and wolf 11 ga. The 11 ga support wire is stiffer and holds heavier ( larger) cable up better. I only use inline mid swivels on my wolf snares. I do not find swivals necessary for fox and lynx. For coyote probably would be a benefit.
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#2472100 - 02/26/11 06:59 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
garyalaska Offline
trapper

Registered: 07/17/08
Posts: 1041
Loc: Alaska
7 foot 7x7 1/16 inch cable sure-loc
One with pig-tailed #11 wire



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#2472150 - 02/26/11 07:36 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
lbtrapper Offline
trapper

Registered: 10/21/10
Posts: 71
Loc: alaska
what is everyone favorite snare lock? for fox and coyote
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#2472303 - 02/26/11 08:51 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
garyalaska Offline
trapper

Registered: 07/17/08
Posts: 1041
Loc: Alaska
i have tried micro loc, cam loc, and sure loc....like sure loc best
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#2472332 - 02/26/11 09:07 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
bctomcat Offline
trapper

Registered: 07/20/09
Posts: 196
Loc: 100 Mile House, BC Can
Toothed cam-loc or amberg lock although they tend to freeze up in varying warm and cold temperatures. This winter I have tried the micro lock and find it to be quite effective as it does not seem to freeze up as it has no moving parts. All with a kill spring attached for coyote and wolf. Kill spring is not necessary for lynx and optinal for fox IMO.


Edited by bctomcat (02/26/11 09:16 PM)
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#2472360 - 02/26/11 09:20 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: bctomcat]
lbtrapper Offline
trapper

Registered: 10/21/10
Posts: 71
Loc: alaska
Originally Posted By: bctomcat
Toothed cam-loc or amberg lock although they tend to freeze up in varying warm and cold temperatures. This winter I have tried the micro lock and find it to be quite effective as it does not seem to freeze up as it has no moving parts. All with a kill spring attached for coyote and wolf. Kill spring is not necessary for lynx and optinal for fox IMO.


ive heard micro's fur up though?
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#2472429 - 02/26/11 09:53 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: lbtrapper]
trapper ron Offline
trapper

Registered: 12/08/08
Posts: 1168
Loc: Kelowna BC Canada
Far cheaper to make your own snares. Most trappers here use 11 foot long wire to make the snare. For most taking wolves they use the 5/64th 1x19. One friend who is very successful, 10 to 15 wolves a year goes a size larger with the cam lock. So on the 5/64th he uses the 3/32 lock. Claims that not as many freeze up problems.

Some of the fellows use the snare portion out of the 5/64th 1x19 and then use a halibut swivel and 3/32 7x7 for the extra length. Be sure to get the proper file to file the teeth in your locks. They are a file that files groves, can not think of the technical name off the top of my head. I will find out the name though.
_________________________
Ron Lancour
Director BCTA
Trapping Instructor
NAFA Trapper Consultant

"It's what you learn after you know it all that really counts."

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#2472469 - 02/26/11 10:10 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: lbtrapper]
bctomcat Offline
trapper

Registered: 07/20/09
Posts: 196
Loc: 100 Mile House, BC Can
[quote=lbtrapperive heard micro's fur up though? [/quote]

In my limited experience with the micro lock, not any more than the other locks.
_________________________
The only constant in trapping is change so keep learning.







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#2472478 - 02/26/11 10:13 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
watarrat Offline
trapper

Registered: 10/04/10
Posts: 15
Loc: Lake Iliamna Ak
All our snares are 1/8" with sure locks. We can live with a fox or coyote refusal but a wolverine needs the strongest snare you can build on a land set. I've stopped used the self supported 9 wire snare's after losing 2 wolves in 1 season.

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#2472485 - 02/26/11 10:17 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
Top Jimmy Online   content
"Assistant Speling Zcar"

Registered: 12/23/06
Posts: 4555
Loc: Alaska, USA
Hmmm, I like having all that wire. Cut my cable to the size I want on the loop and then go with the pigtailed #11 wire, and then can reuse the wire over and over. I just wrap the wire around a small coffee can and it makes a perfect loop and then just close the snare and wrap around the circled wire. Keeps everything nice and neat. Our snare areas change every year, so there is no leaving support wires out in the field. Just unroll, tie off wire, pull loop open for set, and go.

-TJ
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Some people are like slinkies - not really good for anything, but they bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.


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#2472581 - 02/26/11 11:30 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
Family Trapper Offline
trapper

Registered: 12/23/06
Posts: 2087
Loc: Homer, Alaska
tj have you given no wire a try? ;0) That is all I used for years. Till I tried them. Just curious.
_________________________
Passion- There are some people who live in a dream world, and their are some who face reality; and then there are those who turn one into the other.

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#2472598 - 02/26/11 11:44 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: Family Trapper]
watarrat Offline
trapper

Registered: 10/04/10
Posts: 15
Loc: Lake Iliamna Ak
TJ don't be so militant on the #9 wire! Jim Masek put on a wolf school here and never even brought up the subject of a plain old cable snare with a support wire. Must be a Up North Thing.
My Son who's in GILA on Xmas break hanging snares with me!

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#2472619 - 02/27/11 12:12 AM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
trapperbobs Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/20/08
Posts: 87
Loc: Alaska, USA
This thread really has my interest, because I just bought a bunch of supplies to build snares. I have been making some since last year starting with Rabbit and coyote stuff in 3/64ths and 1/16 1x19. The tear drop loop of 7x7 is something I don't care for and am surprised to hear several of you using it. It is very fast but takes such a big loop to cover the trail. Are you guys somehow loading 7x7 to get a rounder loop or just raise top of snare height to accomadate tear drop loop. I really like the pig tail swivel set up, I am going make a bunch of 3/32 1x19 wolf snares with Thompson locks. I don't care for re-rolling the #9 either. The one thing with the all cable is sometimes the twist of the cable is turned once attached to anchor and they don seem to want to hang straight like with the pigtail. When I attended a wolf school a couple years ago with Mark Schlenker (spelling?) he used the #9 pigtail swivel set-up and he seemed a really good source to me. Waterrat was there entanglement available near the two losses, I wouldn't want that experience is why I ask. Just looking for all the info avaialable before making this batch up. I read alot of the older posts related which is why I opted for the thompson locks. I also ordered a dozen of the thompson cable pieces, they don't sell bulk cable. I believe Schlenker told us the thompson cable is 7x19 and really preferred it but it is hard to find in bulk. Any other info you guys will share will be absorbed prior to starting production on these. FT do you notice the twist lay I am talking about? do you attach like shown above? TJ #11 for wolves or just the smaller stuff I can't imagine using less than #9 for wolves. I love pictures like the attach above it leaves no doubt about what someone is telling you. The one wolf I have caught last week was with 1/8" 60" 1x19 loop with #9 wire tied off without a pigtail swivel a couple strands broken as he was snared through the mouth but looks to have expired pretty quickly. The 1/8" looks big to me and harder to cover. I have snared coyotes on the 1/16" and it works great with the pigtail. I have snared two wolverine, one in 5/64ths nearly chewed through in severalplaces and one in 3/32nd with little damage to the snare although heavily twisted. I know this is a long post just trying to gather more info and learn from others experience rather than the way I usually do which is the hard way.

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#2472691 - 02/27/11 05:01 AM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
AKscott Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/07/07
Posts: 137
Loc: north pole, AK
what is the purpose of the long snares is it to get the animal away from the catch site or does it help with tangling i see 90% of the snares in the snare shop catalog are 4-8ft long and i thought i would make a bigger mess of the site by having to walk 4-8ft over to an anchor point then back to the set spot putting on a support wire and opening the loop vs. walking up to the side of the set spot wrapping the #9 around a tree and opening the loop up. and as far as the micro locks i havent seen to much tangling in the fur all mine seem to cinch down nice and tight around the neck and while we are talking about locks what is the preferred lock i have been using the micro lock but am leaning towards the cam lock with teeth because it is suppose to be very fast and non-slipping but i want my snares to stay reliable in all conditions and moving parts don't always do that.
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#2472890 - 02/27/11 09:04 AM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: Family Trapper]
Top Jimmy Online   content
"Assistant Speling Zcar"

Registered: 12/23/06
Posts: 4555
Loc: Alaska, USA
Originally Posted By: Family Trapper
tj have you given no wire a try? ;0) That is all I used for years. Till I tried them. Just curious.


I started that way and HATED it. To much time cutting support wires to get things set. Much better for me to get that all done in the shed in the off season. We find spots off the trail where critters are jumping off and stop and snare them up and go.

-TJ
_________________________
Some people are like slinkies - not really good for anything, but they bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.


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#2472906 - 02/27/11 09:15 AM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
Top Jimmy Online   content
"Assistant Speling Zcar"

Registered: 12/23/06
Posts: 4555
Loc: Alaska, USA
watterrat and trapperbob, I use #9 for wolf and wolverine snares only. #11 for everything else. #9 is just a bit harder to deal with when putting things away or making them. Used to try and double up the #14 wire for smaller snares and it just won't support a snare. #11 works great and I can even go a long way with it if I have to to get a snare connected to a solid anchor tree.

Many of my spots for smaller critters are old beaver dams and such that have trees and grass growing up out of them. I can walk along the dam, and set the snare from the side and never come up along the trail or show that I have been there.

-TJ
_________________________
Some people are like slinkies - not really good for anything, but they bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.


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#2473066 - 02/27/11 10:56 AM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
Grubstake Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/26/07
Posts: 3911
Loc: Lotw MN
I am surprised to see no one mentioning kill springs. I have had pretty good luck with them especially in areas with little entanglement. Just run a long extension cable and solid anchor. When they hit the end of the cable its good night.

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#2473235 - 02/27/11 01:02 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
bctomcat Offline
trapper

Registered: 07/20/09
Posts: 196
Loc: 100 Mile House, BC Can
scotty144; The purpose of a long snare is for the following reasons as well as entanglement:

1) To allow for tying high which helps to place the snare up high on the throat and the lock on the back of neck, or close to it. When stretched out the long snare tied high will be at basically a 45 degree angle thus helping to get the snare high on the throat.

2) The extra length also provides a little extra room for a good lunge to compress the kill spring, which should be used on any coyote or wolf snare IMO.
_________________________
The only constant in trapping is change so keep learning.







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#2473336 - 02/27/11 02:26 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: bctomcat]
trapper ron Offline
trapper

Registered: 12/08/08
Posts: 1168
Loc: Kelowna BC Canada
What my buddy Pete says about coyotes and wolves. They have 3 speeds in one 2 seconds or less, fast, faster, and lightning speed. With a long snare they get a chance to reach that lightning speed and thus close the lock tighter on that initial go.


Edited by trapper ron (02/28/11 11:00 AM)
_________________________
Ron Lancour
Director BCTA
Trapping Instructor
NAFA Trapper Consultant

"It's what you learn after you know it all that really counts."

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#2473360 - 02/27/11 02:41 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: trapper ron]
lbtrapper Offline
trapper

Registered: 10/21/10
Posts: 71
Loc: alaska
Originally Posted By: trapper ron
What my buddy Pete says about coyotes and wolves. They have 3 speeds in one 2 seconds or less, fast faster, and lightning speed. With a long snare they get a chance to reach that lightning speed and thus close the lock tighter on that initial go.


I was under the impression that a wolves will stop pulling once they feel it tightening around there neck? Correct me if I'm wrong please, that's just what I thought
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#2473524 - 02/27/11 04:27 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
AKscott Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/07/07
Posts: 137
Loc: north pole, AK
ok thanks tomcat and ron that makes sense to me so you just anchor them high and leave some slack in it hang your support and hang your loop so what size cable would you guys recomend the biggest thing i have been catching is yote in 1x19 1/16 sould this continue to work good and will 14ga. wire hold them up good with a whammy and a cam lock.
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#2473606 - 02/27/11 05:26 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
bctomcat Offline
trapper

Registered: 07/20/09
Posts: 196
Loc: 100 Mile House, BC Can
Some trappers use 1X19 1/16 cable with good success but I prefer the 5/64 1X19 cable for the extra strenght and chew resistance. I find the 14ga support wire a little whimpy for holding the 5/64 cable snare in postion thus I use 11ga. But, I find 14ga ok for 1/16 cable which I use for lynx snares.
_________________________
The only constant in trapping is change so keep learning.







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#2473681 - 02/27/11 06:13 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
AKscott Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/07/07
Posts: 137
Loc: north pole, AK
Cart

Name SKU Price Quantity / Update Subtotal
1000'

1X19 5/64" () C1X19564 - 1000 $59.00 $59.00
5/64 & 3/32 - Per 100

Cam Locks with teeth () SL003-100. $39.00 $39.00
Standard-Per 100

Steel Cable Ends () SPSTE-100 $4.00 $8.00
Compact Cable Cutter
CCC $20.00 $20.00
Subtotal: $126.00

Total: $126.00
can you guys think of anything else i will need
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#2473706 - 02/27/11 06:28 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
Grubstake Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/26/07
Posts: 3911
Loc: Lotw MN
No swivels? You don't NEED them but they don't hurt anything and are a great anchor point.

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#2473712 - 02/27/11 06:30 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
HFT AK Offline
trapper

Registered: 12/26/08
Posts: 402
Loc: Wasilla AK
I agree with TJ. I found that alot of times I was using alot of tie wire and spending to much time messing around cutting wire, and losing my cutters in the snow, and playing with the dang snare to get it to sit right. Now I just walk up tie off, open the loop, adjust and walk away. All my wire is cut the same length so I know what trees I can hang off of and which ones I can't.
As for disturbing the site, I can count the number of times I caught a K9 off of the same tree on one hand during a season. And when it has happened it was months apart, and after a fresh snow it really doesn't matter. I just go a little futher up the trail and hang another one.
For cable, if it's set updirectly to the pigtail, I've never had a chew out, they can't get to the cable. Regular length cables I have had plenty. I like 1/16 cable, 7x7 or 1/19, it's all I use, except for wolves.
As for the locs, I love the micro for fox, but I'm batting 50/50 with them when it comes to yotes. They fur up. Cam locs on the other hand is a differnt story.
This all just my opinion, there is no right or wrong way, and you'll figure out what works best for you and your terrain.

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#2473797 - 02/27/11 07:11 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: HFT AK]
Sleepycreek4.5 Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/23/11
Posts: 4
Loc: SE Alaska
I'll just throw this out there for anyone that's trying some of these things for the first time like myself. I literally just walked in from making ten wire/cable setups. Why not a dozen? Because I destroyed two in the process.

I was interested in trying out the #9 wire pig tail setups described in the manual and various threads as I felt I too was spending way too much time hanging straight cable and messing with small wire guy lines. Green guys like myself may learn from my mistakes and maybe some of the experienced guys can point out mistakes in my conclusions.

I ordered up a dozen 3xx Thompson snares with tree locks. The first thing I discovered I felt they were a little too long to connect right to the ferrule in addition you have the tree lock to contend with. So I snipped those babies once I determined how much I would need for a decent loop. I was cutting about 17 inches off of the 72 inchers. This left me with approximately a 16/17 inch loop and a couple for the pigtail connection. It didn't seem to make sense to order something that I would have to destroy right off the bat. Next time I'll custom order or just make my own.

Next mistake-I slid a small washer on the cable and then a ferrule. I was thinking that the washer would be nice to pull against the pigtail as I figured this was kind of a built in swivel. Now I'm not sure. I wrapped the first wire on and found that the washer just interfered with the lay of the cable against the wire causing an odd twist to the snare...plus it looked like a five year old did it. So I had to peel the wire off, snip the cable and re ferrule.

Then I remembered I wanted to try loading. I set down the first snare and started on the second just in case things went bad. They did. Someone posted that you get a feel for it. This is definitely true, it just took me a snare. I went a little hard out of the gate and through the process of trying to "unload" destroyed the snare. Learned a lot at the cost of one snare. The next 8 or 9 went well-perfect loops decent speed. Then I got a little too experimental and destroyed another one...ten snares with 8 feet or so of wire. May be excessive, not sure yet. Better to have too much I guess.

Then I have to thank TJ. Although I couldn't find a coffee can in the shop there was a propane tank sitting there and the handle worked perfect for wrapping the wire into nice tight loops. I washed them off in Coleman fuel and that's where I am now.

I will have to say that the first few took an amazing long time and the last few were going pretty quick. There was one point where I was just going to toss the whole works and side with the anti wire guys, but now I'm going to give them a try.

I was able to set up two snares with a four wheeler and a vise as anchor points in less than three minutes. I then herded the dog through the shop and they worked perfect. He hates trapping season.
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#2473820 - 02/27/11 07:20 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
AKscott Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/07/07
Posts: 137
Loc: north pole, AK
i agree with you hft on the pigtail ready to go snares i relly liked them this year the long snares never made sense to me until today it still seems like they are more work to set up it looks like i am going to have to do some testing this year i havent had any problems with the yotes in the 1/16 but i have had some broken strands and i dont want an animal to get away with a necklace i think i will get a few smaller spools of cable in different sizes and see what style snare works best for me i have never used the long snares and before i got the northern beaver/fox snare i used thompson snare and i would spin 3 strands of 14 together and wrap them around the snare to do the same thing as the pigtail.
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#2473835 - 02/27/11 07:28 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
fishermann222 Offline

"OX"

Registered: 12/22/06
Posts: 5292
Loc: Bethel, Alaska
I use pigtails and #11 on all my snares for smaller critters, works great, fast in the field, and that is what I like. End of hte year is kind of a pain, but what I do is take a coffee can with me when I am pulling snares and that gets them pretty close to perfect again, except for the few bends at the end from where you tied it off.

On the wolf snares, I have to recommend getting the thompson snares from wilson jr. Spek talked about them on the forum earlier this season, after making some wolf snares on my own, i called Dean and ordered some up, it is the only way I will go in the future. Just SO easy.
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#2473840 - 02/27/11 07:32 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
AKscott Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/07/07
Posts: 137
Loc: north pole, AK
hahaha thats to funny sleepycreek using the dog to see how your snares work, those northern snares have the washer for a swivel also and they dont seem to work very good on the yotes but the 1 fox i got this year,the snare from him is still good as new so im not sure if i would use them or not the video ft put up the guy clamped the cable in the #9 pretty good then had about 1/2in of cable sticking out the back of the pigtail with the washer and nut and he said it was rare for the animal to pull it free of the #9 but the washer and nut are there for back up im not sure how well that would work on a wolf or gulo but they seem to work good for the smaller animals.
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#2473841 - 02/27/11 07:32 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
Top Jimmy Online   content
"Assistant Speling Zcar"

Registered: 12/23/06
Posts: 4555
Loc: Alaska, USA
I will have to admit that I use a small coffee can for the smaller snares (lynx, coyote, fox) and I use a 5 gallon bucket for wolf/wolverine snares. I have a notch cut in the edge of both and just stick about a half inch in the slot to hold the end and then I can wrap quick around the can/bucket. Release the tension a bit and it springs right out of the slot and ready to go. I usually wrap the wire first, after making the pig tail, and do a bunch all at once. Then I attach my snares to the pigtailed wire in batch's.

-TJ
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#2473882 - 02/27/11 07:47 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
AKscott Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/07/07
Posts: 137
Loc: north pole, AK
here is part of the site ft put up in snare connection's http://www.snarecraft.com/more9wire.html
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#2473987 - 02/27/11 08:30 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: trapperbobs]
akpawpincher Offline
trapper

Registered: 04/04/10
Posts: 73
Loc: Alaska
Originally Posted By: trapperbobs
This thread really has my interest, because I just bought a bunch of supplies to build snares. I have been making some since last year starting with Rabbit and coyote stuff in 3/64ths and 1/16 1x19. The tear drop loop of 7x7 is something I don't care for and am surprised to hear several of you using it. It is very fast but takes such a big loop to cover the trail. Are you guys somehow loading 7x7 to get a rounder loop or just raise top of snare height to accomadate tear drop loop.


I hand form them to a pretty darn good circle. While they are still a little droopy, with the lock at around 11:00/1:00 they hold there shape pretty well. I use the same size loop as with 1x19 (and same height). The other thing I like is if I get a little bump or kink I can easily fix it in the 7x7 and it stays smooth as silk. Like everything else in life, it all boils down to a matter of preference...

I put a little bend at the lock so the wind doesn't close 'em up...


Connection between extension and swivel...

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#2474279 - 02/27/11 10:30 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
trapperbobs Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/20/08
Posts: 87
Loc: Alaska, USA
The thompson cable is 1x19 alternate lay improved plow steel I.P.S. which is probably what Wilson jr. is getting. Anybody know of a retail source for this wire rope.
Here is some pretty interesting reading although it doesn't answer a lot of questions it is a good read.
http://files.dnr.state.mn.us/recreation/hunting/trapping/modern_snares.pdf

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#2474896 - 02/28/11 11:29 AM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: fishermann222]
trapper ron Offline
trapper

Registered: 12/08/08
Posts: 1168
Loc: Kelowna BC Canada
All the snares I make have whammies on them. A ferrule or tubing works great. The ferrule can be used over and over. It is so handy for attaching your snare support wire. How many of you incorporate a whammy into your snare ?

The second thing that is great on wolf snares is a BAD (break away device) This helps with the snare lock to wire alignment. Many times making snares the lock may end up a little out of alignment. When you hang your snare the lock will always be in a straight line position to the wire for smooth slide action. A friend uses the BAD on wolf snares for that reason only, he even silver solders them to make sure a wolf is not going to break away.

Scotty for 1000 feet of 5/64th wire $59 is a very good price. That will make 90 snares that are 11 feet long, that is only 66 cents per snare for wire. Then 39 cents for a lock, 22 cents for two ferrules, that is $1.27 per snare. If you incorporate a BAD and Stinger spring that will bring the price up to about 2.75 per snare. The lock and stinger will be reusable.

Yes much cheaper to make you own wolf snares.
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Trapping Instructor
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#2474922 - 02/28/11 11:52 AM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
AKscott Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/07/07
Posts: 137
Loc: north pole, AK
yea i am going to order some stuff here pretty soon the snare shop seems to be the best place i priced it out again last night and i can have everything i need for about $150 shipped im still not sure on the locks i have only used the thompson lock and the micro lock i think i am going to make more pigtail snares and some long snares to see how i like them like i said i have never used them they look like more work to set up but if it puts the animal down faster thats good in my book i figure the snare stuff another dz or so 650-750s and an mb fleshing system should get me going pretty good next year.
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#2475635 - 02/28/11 05:57 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
Grubstake Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/26/07
Posts: 3911
Loc: Lotw MN
I HIGHLY recommend shopping elsewhere! Bad Bad bad experience with Snare Shop. Rally Hess is a dealer as well as a wealth of snaring info and he is right here on Trapperman sometimes.

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#2475827 - 02/28/11 07:11 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
AKscott Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/07/07
Posts: 137
Loc: north pole, AK
i would prefer to use mtp but they dont have a very big selection i will check out rally hess does he have a web site.
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#2475998 - 02/28/11 08:06 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
Grubstake Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/26/07
Posts: 3911
Loc: Lotw MN

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#2476099 - 02/28/11 08:37 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
AKscott Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/07/07
Posts: 137
Loc: north pole, AK
ok thanks grubstake
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#2477100 - 03/01/11 12:21 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
AK Fur Man Offline
trapper

Registered: 02/14/07
Posts: 135
Loc: Wasilla, Alaska
Not sure what challenge "Grubstake" had with The Snare Shop, but surprises me, given the great service I've had from them the last three years. I also appreciate the fact they give me and my fellow AFTA members a 10% discount whenever we order. Adds up quick. Sorry to hear you had a bad experience with them Grubstake, but think I'll stay with them.
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#2477334 - 03/01/11 03:32 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
Rally Offline
trapper

Registered: 02/14/09
Posts: 172
Loc: Hill City,Mn.
Scotty,
Check your PM.

I think the difference in those that like the wire anchors compared to the total cable snares is much more in actual application and location that one being better than the other. If you are on the tundra, marsh, or the plains, the wire holders would be dead weight as you wouldn't have a way to use them effectively, nor will they work very well in small brush as there is no way to anchor them, without the hard fighters(wolf, coyote, hogs) chewing the small anchorings off.
I sell and use both styles of snares, but find the cable snare more versatile in application. On land I seldom use a snare that is less than 9' in length and often have to put an extention on them still. All my snares have an inline swivel, and quite often I use larger cable on the anchor end from the inline swivel down. This gives me the option of just replacing the capture loop portion of the snare when a catch is made,and reuse my locks and support collars. The inline swivel eliminates the twisting or cocking of the loop like mentioned above when you attempt to anchor and set the snare, but most important it puts a swivel up close to the animals head, that works until the animal is wrapped up tight and can no longer turn it's head and chew on the cable. I've also witnessed cases where the inline swivel worked as an alternative attracter to chew on, rather than the cable.I also have found that with a long snare I can anchor high and the animal will often "barber Pole" the cable around the anchor tree, and end up with it's front feet off the ground below that anchor point. If the anchor tree is off the trail so much the better as it helps preserve that location. The wind and blowing snow usually take care of the disturbance in the snow in short order. I also snare in cattails with drags and couldn't do that with a brush snare(wire holder). Many of the beaver ponds I snare on only have a couple natural "choke points", and the drag allows me to preserve these locations, and even a fox tangled in the cattails is easy to find.
Heres a couple examples of the inline snares and brush snares.

A 9', 3/32" 7x7,swiveled at 42" with 900 lb swivel,Reichert reverse bend washer lock and adjustable end anchor loop, loaded and shaped.My primary open water beaver snare.

A 4', 5/64" 7x7, 600 Lb inline swivel,BMI Slide Free lock,vinyl support collar, adjustable loop end, and loaded and shaped. I use it for otter and coon on kill poles.

A 9', 5/64" 7x7,swiveled at 36" with 900 lb swivel, vinyl support collar, BMI Slide Free lock, and adjustable loop end. My main land snare for fox and fisher.

A 30", 1/16" 7x7,swiveled at 15"with a Graws Bullet lock, adjustable loop end, BMI Miniloc and loaded and shaped. My rat and mink snare, and works pretty good for squirrels too.

These are my coyote snares. Both are 10' in length, have BMI Slide Free locks and a 58# kill spring, support collar, and adjustable end loop. I use the 3/32"(top) in the brush, and the 5/64"(bottom) out west in the open.


Brush snares from coyote to mink. Top two on #9 wire second from bottom on #11 wire and the smallest is made of 12.5 wire.






Edited by Rally (03/01/11 07:57 PM)
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#2477554 - 03/01/11 05:10 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
AKscott Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/07/07
Posts: 137
Loc: north pole, AK
so lets say i put 5-6ft of #11 wire on my snare anchor it high and wrap a horse shoe around the tree next to the trail i am setting for loop support would this accomplish the same idea as an all cable snare high anchor point,enough wire to get off the trail to expire,and a swivel at the end of the pigtail.
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#2477557 - 03/01/11 05:11 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
northway Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/25/07
Posts: 1264
Loc: Tok, Alaska
I have NEVER had an issue with the snare shop either. They have been great to work with and turn around time is incredible as I have them make snares to my specifications. Great people to buy from IMO!

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#2477669 - 03/01/11 05:55 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
takotna Offline
trapper

Registered: 12/22/06
Posts: 1198
Loc: Takotna AK
Had good dealings also but takes 2-3wks to get it, but that would be our great mail system here.LOL

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#2482582 - 03/04/11 02:11 AM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
garyalaska Offline
trapper

Registered: 07/17/08
Posts: 1041
Loc: Alaska
Those inline swivels look pretty slick anyone up here use them I see them in the snare shop catalog.
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#2486161 - 03/06/11 02:03 AM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
907trapper Offline
trapper

Registered: 11/17/10
Posts: 25
Loc: Wasilla, Ak / Central IL
the barrel swivels are great, and agree with Rally a 100 percent there are no one snare for all situations without some tweeking at differnt spots as far as the snares I sell most of are strickly cable and I account a lot of that to the higher cost of fixed wire snares or pig tailed snares, as for a lock that is fool proof, it does not exist in my opinon certain locks perform better in differnt area's (for instance areas with hore frost is not a good combonation with cam locks, freeze up) I personally don't like the surelocks cause of their size mainly, but they work well, I like the micro's or slim locks as they are small work well and are fast, just my 2 cents
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#2489595 - 03/08/11 05:00 AM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
Rally Offline
trapper

Registered: 02/14/09
Posts: 172
Loc: Hill City,Mn.
907,
There is alot to take into consideration when talking about locks and their intended use and combination lock and cable type it is used on.In theory, it is all about displacement, or the actual amount of suface area a cable/lock combination puts on an animals body, and the amount of exerted force applied to that cable/lock combination as the animal tightens it, while it fights the snare. In theory the smaller the cable/lock combination, the less surface area put against the animals body, and equal amount of force being exerted by that animal, the smaller lock and cable combination should displace less and tighten more.That is not reality on a trapline, either in Ak or the lower 48.
The material the lock and cable are made of(actual hardness of steel), actual bearing surface between lock and cable, cable surface texture(rusted, smooth, painted, frosted, wet, dry),shape of locking surface(knurled face or round face of levering type locks), the amount of surface area the lock actually rests on the animals body, and where the locking hole is in relation to the cable when it actually tightens on the animal. All these aspects should be taken into consideration when using any combination to either kill or restrain the intended target animal.
Currently some states are requiring "cable Restaints" to restrain animals rather than kill them, and several are limited to one piece or perceived "relaxing" locks,with large O.D. diameter, Break away devices,required loop stops, deer stops, limit stops, and nonentaglement set locations in addition.
Until the advent of "Cable Restraints", most snare developement was done to make the snare more lethal, mainly to eliminate coyote chewouts and refusals from large cable, and to allow the use of smaller cable in more open areas and still be lethal. Guys like Kelly, Amberg, and Sennecker all added springs and locks to the mix with good results. The springs and longer snares with solid anchors, showed snareman how to use smaller cable to effectively kill coyotes. The advent of "Cable Restraints" allowed snareman in more populated areas, who didn't have the use of snares, to be able to have another tool to use, amongst hounds and domestics.
What I'm getting at is that not all cable/lock combos are created equal, nor intended to be used for all species, even if they fit.A marten lock is not a hog lock, nor is a lethal coyote snare a good idea politically in Madison or Boston, nor legal.
It is common for customers I talk to at conventions to ask me for a snare that will work for coon, fox,cats, coyote and beaver. Sure I make a snare that will work for all five, but nobody makes one that is perfect for all five. The same could be said of a customer asking about a coyote snare. My first qustion to them is where are you from. A Texas coyote is not the same animal as a Mn. coyote, nor coon.They both vary dramatically in physical size by location.
The same applies to locks/cable combos, and their intended use. Some cable/lock combos are just poor choices for the intended targets and flat out will do more damage than good to the animal and the customers opinion of the tool. I'm also sure I can find a crowd of furbuyers who will vouch for that.
The use of smaller and smaller locks and cable on snares has become popular the last few years. The selling point being less visability, particularly out in the open. Some having good results, some not so good in both chewouts and fur damage, particularly with soft bodied animals, like coon and beaver. The coyote guys with springs are doing well when used in conjunction with solid anchorings,long snares, and kill poles or entanglement.Short snares, small locks, and no entanglement are reporting chewouts and serious fur damage.There are reasons for both senerios.
When a lock/ cable combo are working correctly,we have set the snare the correct heighth and diameter to effect a solid neck catch, the animal can pull hard enough to tighten the snare, the lock LOCKS on the cable enough to restrict the arteries in the neck and the animal dies from Anoxia(SP) lack of oxygen to the brain.The sooner the arteries are collapsed the sooner this occurs.The addition of a spring or the animal being entangled (preferably with their front feet off the ground)both help and shorten the time it takes for the animal to succumb to the effect. If the snare or "Cable restraint" has an added limit stop inside the loop,a large surface area of the lock laying against the animals body(More displacement), larger cable(more displacement), overly large hole in the lock locking hole, soft steel in the lock with smooth cable(1x19-1x7), snare is so short and the animal too small to effect lock up of snare,swiveling action of the snare, or the animal is restrained in a small physical area, little to no mechanical camming action on the cable due to design of lock,location of the snare on the animals body other than the neck, and amount of body mass protecting arteries, all are dertermining factors as to the effect the snare will have on time to death or retraint results. Selecting the components to realize the effect you want is mostly determined by your choice of a lock/cable combination and knowing your target animal.I would also suggest having a snare that is well swiveled so that if a non target , larger species is caught, like a coyote in a fox snare, the snare is more likely to also restrain that catch.
I personally have found the inline swivels to be the most important componenet of my snares as they save the constant twisting and take a great deal of load off the cable and keep it from being seperated during the animal rolling and flipping(especially otter and beaver).The closer the swivel is to the animals head the better.
I also have found that not all locks lock on all cables, even if recomended for that size cable. The BMP tests showed the Camlocs(not checkered) to be the poorest lock tested on 1x19 cable, and resulted in high rates of ademia (SP) or waterheads. Which indicates the lock moved or relaxed, allowing some fluid movement but did not restrict the neck enough on a coyote to collapse the arteries to cause anoxia.
If your lock is locking solid after the animal has tightened the loop, it should not backup or relax, and should maintain all forward movement if you intend it to be used as a lethal snare. Too shart a snare and the animal can't get enough forward momentum to tighten the loop and should be used with entanglement or a kill pole.
To tell if your lock is locking solid, look at the cable you have removed from a caught animal. If the cable has several sharp kinks at the location where the lock was it can be from the animal makeing several hard runs while it was close to tight but not quite. That is fine, and usually indicates the lock was not relaxing, but if the kinks are inside the locks final resting point as you remove it from the animal, your lock isn't locking. If the cable also has visible gouging of the cable inside the loop from where it came to rest it is also relaxing. If the locking hole of your lock is elongated or pear shaped it is also an indicator your lock was scrubbing the cable and was also relaxing enough to cause the hole to scrub out or pear shape, unless you have reused it many times and is also a sign of excessive wear.
My point about small locks is that the smaller the physical size of a lock, the less mechanical advantage or camming action it will have on the cable. The smoother the exterior of cable,(1x19 or 1x7)the more camming action is important, to effect a solid lock up.The design of the lock and the angle the locking hole is in relation to the part of the lock that comes in contact with the animals body also determine the locking(camming) ability of the lock. If the locking hole is at a right angle to the animals body when it tightens, it makes it more difficult for the lock to close freely the closer it gets to the animals body(like a 90 degree bend lock). I've seen the best results from the reverse bend locks like the Thompson and BMI Slide Free types, which also keep the animals hair out of the locking holes, which can cause lock slippage due to hair filling the locking hole.I find their side profile, what an animal sees as they approach the set snare, to be minimul, and find their mechanical advantage and leverage to be beneficial. I've also had really good luck over the years with the Reichert reverse bend lock for open water beaver. The Reichert does little to no fur damage and most often the cable mark is the only visiable mark on the finnished hide with a space where the lock was.
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#2489901 - 03/08/11 10:12 AM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
alaska viking Offline
trapper

Registered: 12/25/07
Posts: 1827
Loc: juneau, alaska
Very informative! Thanks, Rally!
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#2490534 - 03/08/11 05:11 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
AKscott Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/07/07
Posts: 137
Loc: north pole, AK
well i built my first three snares and was wondering if someone could explain how to load a snare for me also do my snares look ok.
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#2490565 - 03/08/11 05:30 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
HFT AK Offline
trapper

Registered: 12/26/08
Posts: 402
Loc: Wasilla AK
That looks dang good!
Run the first 6 inches from the fixed end of the loc over a rounded edge. I use the edge of my vise. Practice on some scrap. I normally load them before I put them all togather. I screw them up, alot!

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#2490674 - 03/08/11 06:20 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
bctomcat Offline
trapper

Registered: 07/20/09
Posts: 196
Loc: 100 Mile House, BC Can


To load a snare, grab the lock with your left hand and about 7-8 inches of cable with your right hand. Run this portion of cable several times over a small round rod or screwdriver that has been clamped in a vise. Do not apply too much pressure or the snare will become kinked. Practice will teach you how much pressure is needed to provide a round loop that will close quickly when little pressure is applied to the bottom of the loop. Also for better control move the cable over the screwdriver, or whatever, the same direction each time. Do not see saw back an forth.




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The only constant in trapping is change so keep learning.







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#2490929 - 03/08/11 08:17 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
AKscott Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/07/07
Posts: 137
Loc: north pole, AK
thanks guys i got the loading down ok now i cant get a perfect loop but pretty close.
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#2491388 - 03/09/11 12:43 AM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
Spek Jones Offline
"FATHER"

Registered: 01/10/09
Posts: 812
Loc: Homer, Alaska
Another way to load is to put on a pair of leather gloves and pull it across your thumb. Make your loop the size you want, start close to the lock, bend the cable across you thumb and pull it through about 1/3 of the loop. One or two passes will do it. Then pull the lock end across the
back of the same thumb for about 1/4 of the loop, (one or two passes) and
you'll have a pretty much perfect circle. You get a feel for it after the first few tries.
When you pull a cable across something, whether it's a broom handle or
your thumb the twist of the cable tends to want to spin the cable as it's pulled through, which will throw an "S" in the loop, so it helps to kind
of roll your thumb with a little wrist action as you push down and away from you. One of them things you get a feel for. After you get it down
though you can load a snare in 3 or 4 seconds and never mess one up.
Only downside is, 4 or 5 doz at a setting is all my thumb is good for.

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#2491389 - 03/09/11 12:48 AM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
HFT AK Offline
trapper

Registered: 12/26/08
Posts: 402
Loc: Wasilla AK
I'll have to give that a shot!

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#2491427 - 03/09/11 02:15 AM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
AKscott Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/07/07
Posts: 137
Loc: north pole, AK
well here is how my loops look on the first dz and i will have to give that a try thanks spek.
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#2491738 - 03/09/11 09:59 AM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
bctomcat Offline
trapper

Registered: 07/20/09
Posts: 196
Loc: 100 Mile House, BC Can
A few more strokes with a little more pressure close to the lock and you will probably attain the round loop.
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The only constant in trapping is change so keep learning.







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#2492368 - 03/09/11 04:53 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
AKscott Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/07/07
Posts: 137
Loc: north pole, AK
this is how they look when i loaded them the way spek suggested


Edited by scotty144 (03/09/11 06:18 PM)
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#2492520 - 03/09/11 06:20 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
bctomcat Offline
trapper

Registered: 07/20/09
Posts: 196
Loc: 100 Mile House, BC Can
Thats a good loop in my opinion.
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#2492579 - 03/09/11 06:54 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: AKscott]
Rally Offline
trapper

Registered: 02/14/09
Posts: 172
Loc: Hill City,Mn.
Scotty,
If you put one more little bend on the loop at the bottom of the lock, so that your stop is not hitting the back of the lock as it hangs, it will make your snare much faster. If the stop is hitting that lock, like yours is now, it transfers any pressure exerted to the cable to the lock and cause it to drag and take more pressure(elongation of the loop)before it snaps shut if loaded.
To load your snare, first pound a 1/4 smooth rod or barnpole spike into a wall at a height so you can walk up and set your chin on it, at a 90 degree angle to the wall. You will be "loading", aproximately 1/3 of the total cable that is in your loop when set. I first put a single stop on the length of cable I intend to use, and do them all at one time to increase production. Then lay that length of cable straight on a table. Then I pick the end of the cable up at the stop and leave the remainder of the cable laying on the table, and form a C shape with it. If the stop end of the cable is just resting in the palm of your hand while you push down gently with that hand, it will cause the length of cable to form to it's manufactured shape or show the direction and amount of "memory" or lay of the cable. When I find the memory direction, I then pinch the cable just a couple inches behind that stop, while still retaining that memory. Then with a pair of needlenosed pliers just behind the stop, I bend the cable OPPOSITE the lay of the cable. I move the pliers down about a 1/4" on the cable and repeat the bending sequence, down another 1/4" and repeat the sequence. When done correctly, it should now have a complete circle or "Cradle" where the lock will be, and the stop end of the cable will just about touch the cable.
Now I take that length of cable to the pin on the wall, and hold the "cradle" in my left hand, while pinching the "cradle" between my left thumb and index finger. The cradle will show the direction of the lay of the cable, and when loading it you are just increasing the amount of memory in that piece of cable.Lay the piece of cable across the pin and control the direction you will be forming to by keeping track of the direction the cradle points. With my right hand I then pinch the cable (approximately 1/3 the length that is going to be in the final diameter, a 36" piece of cable I would shape 12"). I then pull the cable over the pin, starting at my left hand next to the cradle, and continue until I get to my right hand. I pull slightly harder when I first start and ease off as I approach my right hand. It is very important that you not pull too hard especially with 1x19 or 1x7 cables, as over shaping is easy to do and will result in a pigtailed appearance if over shaped, and if you pull too hard you can cause the cable to roll which results in loops that appear "cup shaped" as you look at them from above. You want to just increase the amount of memory in the cable, without causing it to roll, which shapes the side of the cable resulting in the "cup shaped" loops. The reason for the pin being at chin height, is that our arms will naturally pull straight down without to much fore and aft movement at this position. The reason for the small pin is to eliminate the need pull too hard, causing the cable to roll. If after loading, you let go of the cradle with your left hand it should spring to your right hand and form an upside down letter C or horseshoe shape. If you pulled too hard itwill just about come back and touch your right hand. Put a lock on the snare now and see if it gives you the closing and shape you desire. It it is still teardrop shaped you didn't pull hard enough. If it is oval shaped you pulled to hard.Only you will be able to tell what you want and for some critters (like mink and otter) I like the oval shape as it will be much faster than the more open teardrop shape. For larger lumbering, straight legged critters, like wolves or coyotes a more open loop is generally preferred. If you kept your "Cradle" straight while loading your snare will hang nice and straight and your lock will jump shut when the loop is elongated just a couple inches, the smaller and heavier the load the less elongation of the loop required to get it moving.Like mentioned above about the "cradle" and the lock base. It is very important that the hole in the bottom of the lock is not binding and the bottom of the lock should sit in the middle of the cradle, without the stop hitting the lock until the animal pulls it completely closed during it's lunging.
Not all locks are created equal nor lend themselves to smooth closing, some need to be altered some.
For Camlocs, instead of bending a cradle you still put a stop on first and form the C on the bench, which tells you the direction of the lay of the cable. The difference is you bend the cable at the stop at a 90 degree bend at a right angle to the lay of the cable. All that is required is a small "journal" for the levering end of the camloc to pivot on. I also put my camlocs on before shaping to give me something tp hold onto while loading. The camlocs are actually easier to make once you get the hang of it, but if the bend is not at a right angle to the lay of the cable it can also cause some binding while closing. You'll just have to ruin a few to get the hang of it like the rest of us. LOL
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#2492589 - 03/09/11 06:58 PM Re: snares buy or build? [Re: Rally]
Sleepycreek4.5 Offline
trapper

Registered: 01/23/11
Posts: 4
Loc: SE Alaska
Very good. Would one of the mods please put this in the archives?
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