LT,

Is this a typo "1/2 gapped, laminated jaws,"?

That pic is a great endorsement for laminations on coon sized traps.

You got me on that one! i was sure i was right but i understand it now

No Stem cell, it is NOT a typo.

The jaws are (roughly) 1/2" gapped with 1/4" lamination,
4 coiled using #2 coils and a JC Connor kit.
This is a 1.5 Victor coilspring and is a trap that I have taken coyotes, foxes and raccoons for the live market before Ohio shut it down.

When you can foothold trap a 'coon for a live market...well, you had better know what you are doing!

I successfully did it for years, The trap was so powerful the 'coon can not escape it, yet with the 1/2" laminated jaws, keep the foot from numbing...that is/was the secret to live market trapping..NO FOOT DAMAGE!

I also did it with Softcatch traps, but did more foot damage in a 4 coiled Softcatch...go figure!?

what do people do with live market animals? use them for training dogs and such?

Yes. It's big business in some states!

LT, do you mean that they are offset a 1/2"?

don't really think a 1/2" would to much considering that the bone in the foot/ankle are so asthick and if targeting no damage than this would have to help

your not going after there leg bone, paw catches, and joint above paw.

You always want a "pad catch" ....that is the preferred catch, never above the wrist.

i like to put a stick of lure stuck in the top of my pocket sets,in case the water rises.

A wad of lure, merely on a stick which is then, stuck in the roof of a pocket set, has been the downfall for many a 'rat, mink and 'coon on my line!

same here, thats how i lure all my pocket sets

LT,

Thanks for the clarification.

That 1/2" is more gap than the prevailing contemporary theory allows for consistant holding of raccoon. I can see it working consistantly on the larger feet of fox and coyote. It is too late now to play but I will make some up to experiment with next season.


Regards.

What is a good height to have the bottom of a bodygrip off the ground in a blind set?

If the trail is a tunnel thru thick weeds or grass, a 220 or 280 set with the jaws on the ground are okay. If it is a more open trail, I like the bottom jaw of the trap 4 to 6 inches off the ground on level terrain. On inclined trails, I like my trap perpendicular to the trail with the jaws on the ground or an inch off. The coon climbing uphill will have his head low to the ground. I use a good bit of blocking above the trap for the downhill traveling coon that carry their head a little higher. These methods work good on the southern coon I trap. The northern coon that are quite a bit larger, may need some adjustments to height. Hopefully someone else will chime in.

I often get a good many nuisance calls on raccoons during season.
Although 99% will be just cage trapping, they still add up in the long run.

TTT

How far back from the pocket should you set yor trap? Im using # 1 1/2.
Thanks

Just now joining in on this post. And i must say GREAT INFO GUYS! For coons with me anyways its always a dirthole. Never did like climbing in the creek getting all muddy just to chase coons. Cus it seems no matter what the set or where it is a big ole coons shows up. I've always found that in the early part of the season when the corn is still standing thats the best time to hit em hard in the farm lanes. Here the first coon of the season, also the biggest i've ever caught.

This coon was held in a duke #3 set for coyotes. Never fails to find a skunk or coon in the trap the first morning.

he makes that #3 look like a 1.5. nice coon. i agree with you on the dirt hole but this year i've also started using coni's on trails quick and simple.