How many have watched a beaver react to a castor mound set? What kind of reactions did you see?

I watched one from a distance of about 40 feet this spring swimming downstream until it got directly opposite the castor mound I had made across the stream from it. When it either spotted the mud or it hit the scent it made an immediate right-angle turn and headed at the mound at a good rate of speed. It did not hesitate to try to crawl up on it and when it did a TS85 snapped on it's hind foot and the toes of the other hind foot got stuck between the lever and the jaws. I have seen others do this also and some will circle first before committing.

Many times I have had to take off my safety gripper and step out of the way, and allow the beaver to enter my 330.I call these my instant beaver.
Tom

there must be alot of beaver around if that happens.last spring i got 3 beaver in less than 1 wk. by 330 lure set. thought when making set close to dark,heard noise behind me,that was beaver. got big one in morning. could they become agressive enough to bite you with that lure on you making set in spring?

They do get agressive when responding to castor based lures.Have had several come up behind me when making a set,but have never been bitten.Did have one try to take me out in a dry road ditch,but that was more of a case that I was in his way.
He got the big swat when he reached my feet.
Tom

I've watched two beavers work my castor mound sets. Both of them did a bunch of tail slapping and swimming back and forth. One was in a pond and one was in a small creek with a series of 5 dams. The one in the pond slapped its tail at least 20 times before it finally committed to the set. Unfortunatly it plowed over my 330 and did'nt get caught. I watched the one in the creek swim back and forth past my set 4 or 5 times without ever commiting to it. That one slapped it's tail at least 10 times. That one or its twin was in my 330 in the morning. I've always thought that foreign castor was sort of an enrager. From what I've seen their first response is to warn others in their lodge or warn the intruder to get out. What I've seen is nothing like the video above, maybe it's the difference between early spring and summer? Anybody else observed anything like this or is it just a missouri thing?

i am watching this pretty close.... i am in the middle of a tricky job right now.....

Sometimes setting foot holds to the side or doubleing up on foot holds is best. (front and to the side)
Alot of times the beaver circles to the side and comes in over the back.

kirk... thanks so much for the assistance

Watched two this spring. First swam back and fourth checking out the mound and sniffing the air for about 20 minutes, then dove and came up looking like a penquine walking up the bank with its front arms full of leaves from the bottom and dropped them next to my caster mound. Missed my set three times doing this and then went over and tore up my mound and made his own. Looked like a bulldozer had tore up my mound when he got done. Moved the trap and got him that night.

Got to watch another two nights later that just circled and circled it and slapped his tail on the water. Wouldn't come close to it when I was there and eventuall went across the river (about 50' or so) and made his own castor mound. After he left I set his and had one in my trap and one in his the next day.

Very cool both times to watch them work the set. Wind really plays a big deal in how they work the set as they were both nose way up in the air out of the water sniffing the air and was always trying to come down wind from it and would circle to pin point the source of the smell. Learned a lot from watching both of them.

-TJ

Kctrapper, I am wondering if all the tail slapping you observed was not partly a response to the beaver detecting your presence or maybe they did not like the foreign 330 in their environment. Had these beaver been spooked or harassed before? Maybe they had been pinched or had a 330 go off on them before when that scent was used and they were sounding off as a result of it.
I am able to observe them approach one of my sets with castor from my window so I know my presence is not a factor and I have never seen the tail-slapping occur when they approach and I have seen them approach this set probably 50 times or more. They do not always commit but their nose always goes up in the air. Some will go straight into the 330 without hesitation and some will circle before committing and then some (shy) beaver will circle, climb up on the log, really look things over then move on.
I have had them come as close as 5 feet behind me when I am remaking a set and then they will slap their tail right behind me and scare the crap out of me. My observations have been that they only slap their tail when they know I am there. However, there is no way for me to know if they ever do it when I am not.
My observations have occurred during the spring and only a few in the fall so I don't know if summer behavior is different.

Do you think the different reactions are a male / female thing ?

No Jim,its a beaver thing--not sex orientated.
Tom

I've had the same experiences. Aggressive is the word to describe it. Speeding up as it hits the shore happened each of the times I watched the behavior. It is safe to say that making sure the trap is stable is a necessity no matter what type you are using!!

I've seen a few beaver work my sets. Some charge, but others circle and circle. I've learned to block off the sides of my mounds well. Often times they seem to want to go directly into the wind when approaching the mound, and will often approach from the sides or back when the wind is wrong. I used to think some were being trap-shy when I noticed some where going through my blocking and that I was catching some leaving the mound, but if they were all trap-shy they wouldn't have swam into the trap on the way out. If you look closely you might be surprised how many beaver you actually catch leaving the mound instead of catching them on approach, especially in 1/2 submerged conibears. I've come to the conclusion that some want to go into the wind on approach, no matter what. I think for safety reasons and that they are somewhat afraid of what might happen if the "other" beaver is still there. Any body else have any ideas on that?
I've also witnessed beaver try to climb over 330's in shallow water. It's important to dig out in front of 330's in shallow water (6" or less), so the beaver is swimming when it hits your trap and is much less likely to try to climb over the trap. I just use my boot in softer bottoms.
The most interesting one I witnessed was a beaver that approached a mound I had guarded by a 330. The beaver made a bee-line for the mound when it smelled the lure, but when it got a couple feet from the edge of the water it literally splashed a wall of water up on to the mound, springing the trap when it did. That solved the problem I was having with the occasional trap that was sprung, empty, and not moved. I was having the problem with only two lures. There was something about those two lures that was causing a splashing reaction by some beaver. Those two lures don't smell similar either. Since I quit using those lures I haven't had anymore trouble.

By putting 2 sticks in an X over the jaws of my 330s,I do not have a problem with beavers trying to go over the top.
Tom

are any of you guys using straight castor?????

Goldy,

That's a great post. I noted in another thread the other day that my catches with 330s and castor mounds increased dramatically when I started setting deeper than half, and looking for a nice deep approach. IMO... a half submerged 330 setting on the bottom in front of a castor mound is a marginal set at best.

Also, like bogmaster, I like to put crossed sticks or sometimes a big old rotten log as a "dive stick".

Last, I like to camo the crap out of every set...leaving one very obvious, but ragged hole in the brush for them to swim through. I always carry a pair of long handled brush loppers when trapping beaver/otter - something I don't often see in other folks' packbaskets.

i am w/you...

something about a 330 hangin out of the water like that looks weird....

Never had much problems with a half submerged 330 in front of my mounds.I do block the sides well,but other than the cross sticks,the front of my trap is left as is.My triggers are bent in a rounded m and are totally under water when the trap is half submerged,this offers the beaver an open window right to the mound.I also may have another set 3 or 4 feet away.I just altrnate between my 2 lures and give them a chance to pick and choose.
Tom

Except the 1/2 submerged thing....we do a lot alike bogmaster.

Daniel, like you I always try to find deeper water if possible to set up half-submerged 330's. Sometimes it just isn't possible though. Also like you, I usually try to camo the trap as much as possible. Long grass and brush tops work good. Although I know it isn't always necessary to camouflage them, there's just something that bugs me too about an obvious 330.
K. I usually only use straight castor these days when I know I have a shy beaver.

good to know. i just relured some shy'd ones today with straight juice.. maybe have one tomorra

The other thing I hate about a long shallow approach is that you end up with a beaver laying for the world to see....including buzzards, cats, and other beavers.

I much prefer they were under a couple feet of water...but it doesn't always work out the way I plan it!

you guys got any shy'd beaver summer tips for me?????

i am in the middle of a lake job now and they're kick me arse

Daniel,while my half submerged 330 may be in shallow water,many are in 2,3 or even 4 feet of water.
Tom

Mine too Tom. I never let deep water keep me from making a set in a good location, even with 330's. I usually try to put in footholds when the water is deep enough to drown, but someplaces you just can't get one in. Those deep channels, instead of putting in a dive stick and blocking it off above and below, I just set one half-submerged. Seems to work just as well as blocking the whole thing off. As long as they can see through it, they will go through it without diving. They don't know the bottom jaws of the trap are there anyway, so why should they dive? It's a whole lot easier and quicker to do it that way too. I've come to especially like the MB1216's in the wide channels.

Thats what I love about making castor mounds and using 330's--water depth is seldom an issue--as it can be with footholds.I also like dictating to the beavers,as to where I will catch them.
Better to be a dictator,than being dictated to.
Tom

Yep, totally agree Tom.

Lot's of times I've caught them in the spring in flooded grass and cattails with nothing more than a gob of lure on a cattail or grass tuft, with a half-submerged 330 a couple feet front of it. In some of the lakes and rivers I trap that's all you can do to get a set in.

Miller,

Unless you tried it already...footholds and bait! I go through this with trapping for the townships here all the time. I never know who was trying before me so the beaver may laugh at a 330 set no matter what type or how deep you set it up.

Blind sets with footholds will work too. Sometimes it is hard to find a good location with enough water for the drowning wire though.

Good Luck!

That is all i use never had any better luck with commercial lure than with just castor.

If I run into beaver that know what a 330 is, I keep my castor mounds (with 330's) lured,and hide totally submerged 330s in access points to my castor mounds.Even though the beaver may know what those 330s are at my castor mounds--they cannot resist checking them out on a regular basis.That is where your hidden sets shine.
Tom

Tom,

I'm talking specifically about a shallow approach, with the 330 on bottom, and half sticking above water. That set has proven to be a marginal producer on my line. It's also more work to camoflage, and more likely to leave the beaver sitting where it can be accessed by other critters. I much prefer a deeper approach.

Also, even when setting a deeper approach or channel...what do I need 5" of 330 above the water line for? Beavers don't swim with half their body in and 1/2 out of the water. When I see a beaver swimming, he's got maybe the top 2" of his head out of the water. So, I prefer 2/3 - 3/4 submerged opposed to 1/2 submerged.

I agree that you can't always find a perfect approach to set a mound with a 330...and while I'll continue to set shallower than I like on occasion, I do try to find a deeper approach whenever possible.

When I say 1/2 submerged Daniel I actually mean 2/3-3/4 underwater, just like you. The regs say our 330's here have to be at least 1/2 submerged at all times. In the spring, after the snow melt, our water is often falling too, so we have to plan for that.

Agreed--half submerged is a generic term(legality).We must have a lot dumber beaver,they seem to give up themselves quite easily--half submerged or 3/4.
Or maybe its just the lures.LOL
Tom

Tom does make a good lure. Both #1 and #2.

If the water is deeper I prefer my trap about like you guys.

Couple inches stick out is all.

I dont generally submerge them on a castor set.

I think when I have problems with absolutely not wanting to go through my trap in either direction(either in or out) at a castor set it seems like my trap is too close to a steeper bank. To me ideal is when I can get it out 3 or 4 feet, but of course we know that isnt always practical.

I almost always use a small piece of bait and catch alot of beaver with the bait in the coni' going out instead of in.

do you guys worry about them crawling over it w/only an inch sticking out of the water or do you always use a dive stick across the top

Like Tom I will always cross sticks above a partly submerged trap to prevent that and in a case where only an inch were to be exposed I would dig it down a bit so the jaws are a bit below the surface and use a big dive stick (2 1/2 inches or thicker if possible) and if you can't get it deeper, cross the sticks over the top so the beaver can't go over it.

I use whatever is on hand at the set. Sometimes a stick, crossed sticks, rotten log....whatever is handy!

Cross sticks have done away with trying to --go over the top.They also work on totally submerged sets,though at times,I too will lay a pole over the top.All depends on what is laying around.Thats one thing all ofus that use this set on a regular basis seem to do--use what available.
Adapting to the situation thats at hand--the mark of a smart(lazy LOL) beaver man.
Tom

Since I started digging, so there is at least 12" of water right in front of the trap, I haven't had any problems with them trying to go over. I think 12"+ of water also helps with fewer refusals. I think it's because they would much rather swim through the 330 than try to walk through it. Like Steven49er, I always use a small stick of popple. It's been proven to me time and time again bait can make a big difference. I also like my mounds 3-4 feet back from the trap. I seldom submerge 330's at castor mounds, even in deep water. With the jaws 3 or 4 inches above water they will swim through at water level everytime.

Years ago I hauled bait around,haven't for a long time.I rely on my lures to do the job.Every blue moon I may pull a freshly cut small tree,and throw it behind my 330. This is only done when I may have a reluctant beaver.
Bottom line--whatever a guy feels comfortable with--is the way to go.Results are all that counts.
Tom

For bait I just go to a recent clear cut and cut some 12" long, 1"-2" popple saplings. The greener colored and smoother the better. With a swede saw I can cut enough for a whole day in a couple minutes. Get's to be a habit everytime I stop to grab a bait stick.

Randy get rid of the swede saw and use a brush loper.

I probably build a mound on only about 10 percent of my sets or so.

Pound in s popple stick, put some lure on the set and gone.

What i like about the stick is eye appeal for when the wind is wrong. I shave it the top of the stick as well to shine it up.

The one thing I really dont like about mounds and fresh mud is they attract too many muskrats. The bait does too(muskrats will eat popple bark) but doesnt seem to on the same level as fresh mud.

How often do you guys refresh your lure?

i didn'r see the video

Out of habit,I refresh lure after every catch.If I do have one that goes a few days with out a catch--I will also refresh .
If I want a little more eye appeal--I will use fresh peeled beaver chews for my lure holder, and throw one on top of my
mound.
Steve,plenty of rat sign around this spring,but I never did take an incidental rat.usually end up getting 1 or 2 along the way.
Tom

This is why I always try to use an MB-750 set deep at castor mounds. Too many rats in 330's. And, it seems like coon become a problem if I set an MB-750 shallow for a front foot.

Sometimes you have no choice and the 330 or a shallow MB is the best way to go.

It's interesting how different trappers have different perspectives on things. Like Boggy said, you have to keep doing what you have confidence in and what works for you. This has been interesting.
I don't have many problems with 'rats. The only time I do is when the water drops more than what I'm anticipating. I set the trigger wires about 1"-2" below water level, or I should say I try to have the trigger wires at 1"-2". At that level it seems the 'rats just swim right over the wires. At water level they seem to bump into them and spring the trap more. Any deeper than 1"-2" the beaver sometimes get into the trap too far and you can get fur damage. On my footholds, my pan tension is set so I catch very few 'rats. The only time I do is when the 'rat jumps off the mound right into the trap. That happens about once a year though.
It is interesting Steven about your comment about the mud and 'rats. I tend think the opposite. Almost everytime the (popple) bait stick is still there it is chewed by 'rats. I always have the bait stick pushed into the ground so the 'rats can't try to carry it away. I personally wouldn't want to be without mud as a visual attractant. One of these years I'm going to make some mound sets without lure and just the mud to see what would happen. I'd bet the sets would catch beaver.
As far as reluring. I relure every couple days. Often though the mound get's trampled by other beaver after a catch though, and then I have to relure everyday.

I've quit setting deep, for the hind foot only, because I was missing the occasional beaver. With those spring travelers sometimes you only have one chance at them and they are gone. I was having the occasional beaver eat the bait and be gone without stepping in the trap. It didn't happen much, but enough that I now always set shallow. With footholds set deep, if you miss the back foot on approach, it's unlikely you will get them leaving because of the way the leave the mound. With footholds set shallow, you have the chance of catching either the front or back foot on approach or leaving. But where I trap, coon aren't a problem. I might catch one or two a year at the most. If you are catching a lot of coon, I could see where you would want to set so you catch as few as possible.

Anybody else have any thoughts? This has been a good thread.

I have all kinds of thoughts,just figured everyone was tired of hearing them.LOL
Tom

No thoughts, just reading and trying to soak it in. So don't stop now!! This has been one of the better post in a while!!

Steven49er - what type of lure are you using on that popple stick? Castor based or food type lure?

I've always had way more faith in my #5's than a body gripper. But after reading your guys posts, maybe I'll have to revisit my 330's. I see some things I can do different.

ed,
thanks for bumping this one.. its the best summer post going

I do have a question.How many of you,have your castor mounds covered up by beaver? I hear about it ,but it has only happened to me a couple times. And I have made thousands of the buggers.
I do love playing in the mud.
Tom

I cannot think of very many where they actually added stuff to the mound I made before they were caught. However I have seen many times where they made their own additions next to the set when they were 330 shy or for some other reason did not want to commit. I can think of one in particular this spring where I made a very large mound that was guarded with a half-submerged 330 and when I checked it the first morning the 330 was snapped but still in place and the mound was completely destroyed and flattened down to nothing with beaver tracks all over it.
I remade the set and it was not touched that night but the beaver had plastered mud all around it on the bank so I put in a TS85 next to the beaver's new mud and had a very large male the next morning.

Not covered up, but totally destroyed and built a new one next to my old one. Like I said earlier, it looked like a bulldozer had gone over the area where I made the mound. Even got to watch him do it.

-TJ

This is what beaver can do to a castor mound. Unfortunately I caught two spawning northerns before the beaver got there. Right in the center of the picture I had a PILE of mud on top of a big piece of bog. It was on a lake shore no where near any beaver houses, so I wanted a lot of eye appeal. They completely destroyed the mound and of course, ate the bait. They even did something with all my blocking. An eagle ate the fish. The peeled sticks were my bait from the days before.

If you have a castor mound made and a beaver comes and builds his own right next to yours, how would you treat that?

Set his as well of course, but what else? Fresh mud and castor lure on his too? Relure yours with more castor?

Excellent thread.

Andy,only a couple times ,has one put one up next to mine.I just thre theirs out in the water.I then remudded and relured mine.
I set very few mounds made by a beaver,I turn it around and build one of mine near his and set a 330 in front of it.This really fires them up.
Tom

When they do that I set a foothold, if the water is at all deep enough to drown them, at the new natural mound leaving as little disturbance as possible. I don't put any lure on the beaver-made mound at all. Like Tom, I seldom set natural mounds unless I'm after a trap shy beaver. When I do and I don't get quick action at the real one, I'll build a fake one near it (with a trap just in case) and lure it with castor. Sometimes the strange castor will spark a territorial response and he try will freshen up his own natural one.

I have had some beaver charge in so hard and fast,they were half way through the 330, with their heads resting on top of my mound.
Tom

I've had that happen too Tom. I just always thought they made a lunge forward after the trapped snapped, but you might be right. They may just be hard chargers. Now that would be something to see on a video!

Have watched quite a few get caught,several as I was finnishing up the set.Huury up--remove the safety and get out of the way.
Tom