Posted by Kusko
Hey MT, you need to look into studding your RMK with regular studs. All of my buddies with 1.25" tracks have their machines studded.
posted by HUPUREST
Studding a track that tall is rather risky, unless done 100% correct and a bit pricier. A stud that tall, has a large tendency to bending or ripping out of the track, due to the leverage it produces, when it gets a "hold" in a log, or ice
In order to stud it correctly, one would need to have 4 studs per row, and I would not go higher than a 1.375". the best studs are made by Fast trac, and are called top gun, they have the largest diameter head and are the BEST quality you can buy, and they back it up.
the backers you need to use are also made by the same company and are plastic angled backers. They fit up tight to the track lug, so the stud can not generate the leverage to rip out, as other flat or round backers allow. Also being out of plastic, they will not "cut" into the track as metal ones do, causing a rip out.
I was partners in a snowmachine race shop In NY, and these are the studs I, we used to grass drag, race and ride with.
I had 240 (5 per row)in a MXZ X 800, 3000 miles and I bent one stud, never lost any carbides or had track wear or a tear out. Other brands are FAR inferior to these, and it is all we would install on customers machines. One would also need tunnel protectors, as they will shred apart a tunnel and bulk head in no time
here is a link http://www.fasttractraction.com/topguncarbide2.htm
posted by martentrapper
No studs for me on a 1.25 lug. The track screws are alot easier to install.
Forgot about the tunnel protectors. Got to have those also, if you want studs or screws
Posted by HUPUREST
see absolutely no reason to stud here, unless you are racing rivers, or towing big loads on the ice. the track screws are perfect for most uses for that added extra traction, cheaper, and WAY easier to install..
the main reason I ran studs on the non race sleds was stopping, it halves the distance, especially at speeds above 80mph, and on hard pack it kicks up more for the heat exchangers. Most trails, unless frozen hard, the studs don't help much anyways, and they also rob power both low and rob the crap out of the top end, on my 800 it took off 11mph, lots of extra rotating mass, I would recommend a gear change to go along with it, down 1 to 1.5 teeth would be optimal. oh, and don't forget the new longer more agressive carbide runners you will need to steer it. the downside is the amount of ice chunks and rocks they pick up and throw, it is no fun riding behind a studded machine.
In ny , i broke a friends middle and index knuckles with a baseball size rock that it kicked up.
The only problem with those screws is putting them into a 1.5" inch or deeper lug. the track is thinner on the ends, so that it "sweeps" the snow away, gaining extra resistance for better traction. the ice screws do not hold up 1/4 the time they would in a shorter lug track, and very often pull out and tear apart the paddles.
if one wants to do it the cheapest way, get some 1/4" hex head machine screws with 3/4" long shanks. that is how I used to do dirt bike and old wheeler tires, like $4.
I also, use round head bolts that fit through the holes in the running board for extra traction, instead of buying those $80 aluminum ones. and for the very aggressive rider get em 1" and sharpen em with a grinder.