Just wondering how many guys mostly blind set coons with body grips? Is there any trick to it?? What are you guys looking for at most of your set locations?


I was thinking about purchaseing a video by Ron Hauser "longlining, raccoons and conibears" It a video all about body grip trapping coon. I was just wondering if it was worth the money ($40) to buy the video.

Kevlar

i would hate to know i had to tote connis around everywhere i set a foot hold or a snare. just my .02 cents. they have a place as does most traps but dang that is a lot of weight to lug around.

Save your money IMO.

I set mostly all blind trail sets for coon though I use snares way more than bodygrippers.

Houser uses 220's set in trails. If you have coon trails and 220's get yourself some stabilizers and set them if it's even legal in MI. Just block them in a bit so the coons don't go around or over and you'll be in good shape.

~ADC~

Most of my coons come from blind sets but with foothold traps. You could do it with coni's but it would be more work involved per set and more time consuming IMO.

pm sent

I run probably 50/50 blind sets vs. pocket sets. Use more snares than bodygrips due to high theft. Last year started using more footholds in trails and alot less visible.

its easy, set a 220 in front of a culvert. (make sure its stable.)

220 Cooner,

First 220 aren't legal.Second, I know how to make a basic blind set.

I'm asking about guys who blind set say cornfields with woods adjacent. Placing body grips in game trails between woods and corn fields. Just wondering if there are any tips they want to share with us.

you can use a 220 on private land. just only 160's on public.

ive tried it but with NO success maybe im an idiot

here in ontario we can't set footholds for coon and can't use snares in the southern area bodygripping coon is one of the fastest most productive coon trapping methods there is i use 160 220 and some 280 i also get some red fox every year in them i like the stakilizer best and use them on a18 to 24 inch stake and add some chain to the traps as well i also like a mid chain swivel and a end swivel to slip over the stake all i need in most of my locations is a stake and trap sometimes a hammer to drive it in look for trails crossing the roads from woods on one side and corn on the other also in ceader swamps most times there is a culvert under the road also don't think you always have to have woods for the coon to be there i've caught hundreds of coon that wre living in rock piles and rubble around culverts and old beaver houses also groundhog holes just get out and find the trails from the denning area to the feed

forget to add keep your traps up of the ground 4-5 inches

Yes, I blind set 220's 1/3 of the time. It needs to be a hot trail and set the trap where natural vegetation will help hide it. I also add some more grass, etc. Set the bottom of the jaws about 3 in. off the ground. If set in the right trail it will catch a lot of coons. You will also get an occasional bobcat.

in my opinion 220 and snare blind sets are the way to go on coon ..... altho i will throw in footholds if the situation is right .... the conis and snares are VERY low maintenance

I would reccomned the video, i dont think you will learn a lot of tricks, i have the video and reccomned it, what you learn is one big think locations, he shows edges that are good travel ways. i was impressed with his catch

I"ve set some, but not the norm. I have a farm I trap with a creek running between two fields. It has a lot of reeds/weeds that the coon run and make a trail just as wide as a 220. I've set them, but ended up with rabbits and one coon.

I use the standard pocket set for coon. NO need to get fancy, just some smelly fish and a 1.5 duke. Works

Guess its all a matter of opinion. I use them and love them this makes up 3/4 my line. Take a couple sticks about the size of your spring holes run them through the spring eyes and into the ground you want to bend or cockk the springs down though so the trap is 3-4 inches off the ground. then on each side of the trap place a y stick just a little higher that the trap and lay grass or sticks across i prefer grass really makes a good funnel. You can also stick small sticks in with the large ones to help stabilize the traps you want the real sturdy place this is a trail and i will gurantee you coons if you do this right also place a small stick under the conibear in the 3-4 inch space here is a pic i drew up i will post some real ones 2maro man i should be an artist lol

there legal here. and you did not mention anything about cornfields. or woods. be more specific . He was just answering your very ambiguous question. so how does he know you know how to set a blind set when you asked.????the question you asked seemed to be the question you should have asked in the first place . seems like your scolding I can see why posts get deleted for bickering .

If your not using blind/trail sets for all furbearers you missing alot of fur.

Excuse me if it sounded like I was scoulding him. Thats the problem with reading a typed message. People can always take things the wrong way.

He's a big boy if he thought I was scoulding him he could of said something. But thanks for sticking up for him just the same.


Now back to our topic!

Kev

Yup, works good. Up off the ground a little, so coon can go right thru opening and a stick on sides and top, so dogs go over the top. Works good. LM

Parker,

Nice setup, dose the grass and stuff keep the deer from knocking it over? We have a few deer around, the setup you showed would probably have them jumping over it. Which would probabl keep a few extra traps operating instead of having a deer knock them over.

I have always used the grass or sticks ontop so that the coon does not try to go over it. but I have noticed it makes other animals like deer and dogs go over it. watched a coonhound jump right over one

Most of the big coon men are water guys with foot traps. I'm talking 800 to 1200 a year guys. Body traps have there faults as do snares (incidental pets, refusals,Etc) Footholds arent foolproof either but consistency and effectiveness are higher in my opinion than blind setting with snares or body grippers. I have targeted coon with every method and tool over the years and footholds have far and away produced the highest numbers for me. Blind setting presents one chance at an animal as it passes through the area. If he misses the pan or the trigger wires on his way through hes gone and no catch. A lured or baited set presents several chances at a catch since the animal will move its feet around as it investigates the attractor thus greatly increasing the odds of a catch.

Well 220's are not illegal here in MI. the little booklet put out be the dnr says its illigal to put a conibeat larger than 6 inches wids on dry land that is publicly owned unless in a box or similsr container unaccesibal to dogs. on private property where you can blind set with them i like to set trails in spots where they have to go threw it.

The thing with bait sets though is if the coon isn't hungry, he walks on by. You still have 4 cracks at him on the blind set. I make blind sets at waters edge much like a mink set. Where I see tracks, I set traps where I can crowd in the animal.Usually on a bend Where I know coon is going to take the shortest path. Place a guide stick in the water and stepping sticks on both sides of trap. 160's work real good in these situations I just bend down the springs and support trap with my guide sticks. I don't like the trap to be to sturdy because then the coons climb over it. I like to present them with that nice opening for them to walk right thru. Just let the springs bent straight down be the hite of your opening.

Kevlar
Are you going to be at NTA in Goshen? If so look me up and I'll show you how I set up blind footholds for coon. Not saying I'm a big numbers guy or anything, but I'm told I do ok for time put in. The only baited traps on my coon line are the grizz's. The rest are a mix of mostly 1 1/2Dj coils and some 160's. We are not allowed snares or 220's here.
Every system has it's place, so look over as many as ya can. Then take from each what you can make work for you.

Mac

Some of my lures are designed to stop a coon regardless of hunger. My income for half of the year revolves around my coon harvest so I can't have coon walking by without working the set.

Dave;

Could you email me at arrowskp@mchsi.com Please! Thanks!

For coon on cornfields, its simple, I catch 90% of my catch that way, use legholds, walk the edges where the corn meets the woods, only set the best looking trails coming out of the woods, if you set every trail you will be wasting time. make sure you arent setting on deer trails. set your trap in a spot that is naturally norrowed down by vegitation. I ussually use a 5 lb. sledge and pound a depression for the trap to sit in, this keeps the coon from kicking the trap over as it walks by. If you want you can place a stick on both sides of the trap, that will help insure that the coon will step in your trap because he has to step over the stick, use a stick about an inch in diamiter. I caught 300 coon in the last 2 years using this method, it works great.

Burdman,

How many foxes and yotes are you taking in thses blind trail sets. Just curious.

Kev

not many, got one this year and 3 last year. Theres to much scent left behind so i think they avoid them.

I seriously do not think I have ever met a raccoon that was not hungry.

Also I night latch all of my raccoon footholds and set alot of them in the dark... Does that count as me Blind setting for coon?

We are not allowed to use anything over 5in out of water or in a building here.