Fur Stretchers

Hello,

As a novice trapper/fur handler I was curious what advantages a solid fur board has over a an adjustable one? I understand that an adjustable stretcher means you don't have to carry different sizes but I am sure there are advantages to using solid boards as well, curious as to what they are?

Thank you

Solid boards-Better for pinning(that's why you seldom see split otter boards),and consistency in shape.

thinking there should be a better way to put together a split board , need to dedicate a few evenings in the shop to see what can be done ! would eliminate forgetting to wedge em in my haste to getterdone !

Don't think of split boards as "adjustable", and try to get different width on the same type of critter. I used solid boards for coons and for fur out fox and coyote I use split boards, easier to get off board when time to flip and lets more air inside to help drying.

Split Board Construction and Use

Just use 1X4 or 1X6 preferred, anchor them down with the top end together and the butt spread apart to the NAFA specs. Then add the pattern measurements and trim the edges accordingly. No taking inside material off. For pinning tails and squaring the butt, I use a piece of heavy cardboard or cedar shake muskrat stretcher to cover the space between board sections. To hold the tip together I use a headless nail in drilled holes, about 4 inches back from the tip. The following pictures show how mine are put together:



To obtain consistent butt width for the pelt size per NAFA or FHA specs, spread the spacer board to the butt width at the specified length and then mark the spreader board accordingly.

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Is the nail then glued ? What keep the nose piece from coming apart ?

If you look at the way that they produced the Summerberry 1930's Muskrat split forming boards. Sorry no pics, but basically the small side is angled to the front, not a straight. So when the board is split to go larger , it still makes a nice shoulder area so rat's from medium to 2xl look nice to form. There was no fall season for the small kits back then.

Coyote trapper youtubeer Ryan, has a way of covering the front with pieces of old leather across the front to hold the two pieces together. For pinning the one side of the headless nail, with the small rings around it are cemented into one side and the other side has a slightly larger drill hole piloted .

One side of the nail is tighter in the board than the other. It will come apart if you spread it. The picture shows it spread a bit.

With regard to using a nail in the head part of split boards it's quite useful on cat split boards.

Pelts on collapsible/split boards can often still be tight in the neck area when the base of the board is collapsed, especially with cats. To avoid this use a head spacer that can be easily removed through the pelt mouth area. All that’s required is a standard clothes pin, a headless nail, some duct tape and a 6 or 8 inch sip tie. The spreader nail should be no more than 4 inches from the board tip to facilitate removal of the cloths pin spacer. Pull the spacer pin, squeeze the boards together and the pelt is removed very easily compared to the normal procedure with a collapsible board at the butt end.

Now that's clever!

I suppose a lot of you make your own boards.

I buy mine then a just them to what I want them if they are off a little.