First time fleshing and stretching questions?

Want to put up fur for the first time this year. Not quite set up yet, gonna make a fleshing board and some stretchers soon. Mostly doing coyotes but maybe some coon too. Right now have been skinning coyotes and then rolling fur side out and throwing in freezer. Is that okay and then when I’m ready just thaw out for a day or two then flesh and stretch? While stretching do I need to Salt? Or after stretching hide out for a day then flip and go fur out for a couple days just let e, hang and air out or do you have to freeze again after that? Any advice would be appreciated. Probably ship to an auction st the end of season but might send em in to be tanned depending on how many I’ve got.

It's ok to freeze for a while before fleshing. NO SALT when fleshing and preparing for the fur market. No freezing after drying for the fur market.

Fur pelts should be dried in a room at between 50-60 degrees F with a fan providing good air circulation. Time to dry will vary by species, but when they become tacky to the touch it is generally time to turn them if to be shipped fur out. For ease of removal use a belly wedge or two with all boards other than split boards, wire stretchers and squirrel and weasel boards.

If a pelt gets to dry to easily turn just wrap it in a damp towel until it becomes pliable, usually 10 -15 minutes for larger pelts like coyote and much less for marten. Don't worry about putting the re-hydrated pelt back on the board fur out. The re-hydrated skin dries very well and quickly, unlike a green skin against wood.

What about if I’m gonna tan instead of selling after fleshing/stretching/drying? How long is a pelt good when it’s dry if I don’t get it shipped till spring or if I want to carry over till next year? I’m new to this but seems like a lot of the fur auctions are so early that I’m still getting coyotes. I’ll hopefully still be getting some through the end of February.

Dont need to flip canines that are heading to the tannery if that is the route you choose. They hides can last for years if stored in a cool, dry room in airtight bags. You should ship them off before spring as the fur beetles start showing up and will turn your hides into sawdust and swiss cheese.

should only take a few hours to half day to dry enough to flip. as stated above, if tanning no need to flip. imo id practice on a couple coon first (fleshing) to get a feel for the knife

So I finally got my second fox. I skinned him quickly then went out to check the rest of my traps. When I got home I could hardly get my two fingers down his neck when I went to put him on the stretcher. Other than skinning then straight to board anything I can do to help give back the elasticity? I did wrap him with a damp towel for a few mins. to try to re-hydrate the area.

Is it a grey fox?

Kit fox

Did you leave the hide skin side out? Anytime you have a hide that you are not going to board or flesh within a few hours depending on your conditions, you need to flip it fur out so that it is not exposed to air and cause the hide to dry and shrink.

Ok, ya I left it on the counter for about an hour. I'll have to remember that for the next one. Another question is when I cut the nose how much of the cartilage do I leave in there when I board the animal. As you know coyotes have about 3/4" of cartilage and it kinda looks funny to me with the nose so high off the board. Sorry one more question really quick. Do I put the fur hanger through the eye hole?

No reason to take off any cartilage In the nose. Take off the lower jaw and trim off the lips all the way to the nose.

When your drying the leather side of your hide you need to have It on the stretcher. And hang It up so It dries evenly.

When skinning swift/kit fox they need all four feet and lower lip for optimum pay.
you can wash and snap dry to make them fit the stretcher better. If it is just neck issues a spray bottle will moisten areas enough to accomplish what you need.

Thanks guys. & ya I'll dry it on the stretcher. Was just wondering about the hanger cuz I have high hopes that I get to fill a couple of them this year... still a slow start for me so far. I can't seem to find the animals that want to step in my traps.
Plus I think I might be leaving them in the same spot too long. But we'll see. Always learning.

Why do you recommend not freezing or storing dry pelts in frozen environment? Any body can answer this as this is a new one to me.

It appears I had a rare brain fart at that point. No problem with freezing dried pelts if your holding over for the next season. Actually it's recommended. I just never hold over and always send to the next available auction and until that time keep them hanging in my shop..

I'm sure it's not recommended but how bad is it if the fur is wet when put on the board? Skin out.

Wet fur on the inside in teases the chance of the fur molding, especially if it is near a heat source. It is also more difficult to comb out the fur once the pelt has been flipped.

I do occasionally put fur out pelts on boards with damp spots. I wouldn't call them sopping wet. Mold is going to depend on temperature and how long before you turn them. Coyotes will be somewhat damp in areas from cleaning blood and will take awhile to dry. Could mold, but I prevent this by putting them in a freezer( anywhere not my house) for a few hours minimum to retard anything wanting to grow and bring them back in to finish drying. Marten are ready to turn before any chance of mold. Before putting fur out stuff back on the board after turning I place the damp boards near the wood stove and they are dry in 5 -15 minutes. Otter are recommended to keep damp when processing and boarded damp hoping most moisture is absorbed into the wood stretcher.

Odd question... Does anybody know why fox boards/stretchers aren't shaped the same as a coyote?
Would something be hurt if I made my fox stretchers the same style as coyote but a smaller scale?

Whats different besides size ?

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

The shape of the head to neck area. The coyote one I have is more of a triangle from nose to neck & the fox one is more rounded.

They should both have a slight rounded profile from nose to neck area.
Check your board sizes with those illustrated on the NAFA and FHA fur handling pdf's.

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Ok. So what's the difference between hanging furs nose up & nose down during drying while they are on the boards? Is there a benefit for one & not the other?

With fur in goods, nose down allows the grease to drip off the nose in stead of absorbing into the tail and skirt.

With fur out goods, nose down allows the fur to fall toward the head allowing for fluff while drying.

That's the way to do It.

Thanks

So I just took the coyote off of the stretcher, when I was brushing it i heard a ripping noise like a piece of paper. I just noticed that some how I ripped it under the armpit when I was brushing him. It's totally dry now with fur side out. How do I fix it now? It's about 3" long. Do I have to re-hydrate & sew it?

It's going to be just about impossible to get It softened up enough to get It turned.
Maybe you could soften up that spot were the tear Is but It's going to be tough to get It sewed up.

You can rehydrate it in a tub of warm water for 4-6 hours,then wring it out good in big towels a few times until the fur is just damp.Then sew the rip,re-board,turn and brush again-but be careful.

What are you planning to do with this coyote? The damage is done. You can do stuff to prevent further damage, but it may not be necessary. Is ripped in the thin fur of the armpit?

I planned on selling next month @ auction.
& yes it's in the armpit.

If you are very careful, you might be able to super glue it together. Did you leave the legs sticking out of the pelt?

No the legs are in & up.

If you don't do something with it, it will tear wide open when they drum it at the auction.

This is what I'd try to do. You need to seal the leather of the rip edges by getting it wet. The hair in the armpit should be fairly thin. Put a gob of spit on the end of your finger and work a liberal amount of spit along the tear through the fur until the leather re hydrates at least a half an inch both sides of the tear. You might be able to get some of this liquid on the hide side with your finger. Depending on access through the tear you also may be able to re hydrate the tear area with a waded up wet paper towel placed on the leather side of the tear. If you are able to re hydrate the leather at the rip you should be able to pinch the leather up and add stitches for strength like a wound. You may also be able to sew the whole thing normally, if you want. You will have to pick hair out of the stitches. Good Luck!

I had the same issue on a coyote, torn front leg badly while pulling it off a board. I took a chance based off some comments I saw, soaked it in a wash tub, it took less than 2 hours to make it completely pliable. Turned it back fur in, sewed it up and re-boarded it. It was simple, looks great and took almost no time. Would absolutely do if you have some torn after its dry. Was actually easier to work with than freshly fleshed.