Difference in "stay" between paste-oil Lures?

Have yall noticed any difference between oil based, more thick liquid lures and paste or thicker lures like say a castor based beaver lure? What I mean is do you think that a paste-thicker lure lasts longer at a set than a thick liquid/oil lure? Curious as to what everyone thinks..

I think people worry too much about consistency when they should be worrying more about the attraction. Any time you add anything to modify the texture that doesn't add attraction to the formulation your diluting the active ingredients. From my experience good fixatives play a more important role in odor durability than texture or consistency.

I only play with coyotes so no idea about the other critters but the question I'd find more relevant is how long do you need it to last?

Personally I've caught a coyote 82 or 83 days after luring or baiting and that was in a step down dirt that had been flooded at least twice in those 80 some days.I know of guys that have caught coyotes at sets that been under feet of snow for a 100 plus days then caught after all that snow melted off.

Mr Yes Sir, can you please explain what a “fixative” is in a lure, bait, or urine? I have seen that word used in discussions related to the preparation all of those.

Its an ingrediant that stabilizes a lure. Say when your lure reaches the desired "Odor" you add the fixative to keep it that way..

I'm no expert on the topic so if you want more understanding I'd suggest looking into the perfumers information. In the lure making world I've found the word fixative to have a pretty lose meaning from one person to the other. For me a fixative is an ingredient that helps another odor not fade as quick. It can also sometimes help give the odor more push/reach. Another quality of a good fixative is in a formulation it will help bind all the odors together allowing the more volital odors and less volital odors to disperse at a more even rate.
Some people will get preservatives and fixatives confused because the preservatives "stop" the aging process and that means in their minds it fixed the odor, but the two are not the same. A good example is for instance mink glands. They have a know quality of fading moderately quick over time. If fixed properly that fade can be greatly decreased to the point in a formulation or in a storage container they can smell very fresh many year's after being processed. A lot 0f stuff in the lure makers ingredients is considered fixatives by some and I suppose they may have some fixative natures to a degree or may work better with certain products as a fixative but there's some true fixatives that have some very great potential in fixing odors. I've only played a little bit with some of these real powerful fixatives so am definitely not all knowing in their use or potential but from what ive seen they can definitely effect the quality of a formulation when used properly.

KY boy thanks for asking the question I didn't even know anything about.


Yes sir thanks for the great explanation. I'm learning all the time

Thank you but with all do respect, in my opinion, you aren't learning nothing by reading. Absolutely no disrespect to any one but by reading your only getting ideas put in your head. Until you start testing and seeing animals responses to these ideas you haven't learned anything. Theirs just as much poor information on the internet as there is good information. When you start putting ideas to the test you start seeing who knows what they are talking about and who is just regenerating ideas passed on enough they come across like fact.

In this case I'm learning. I had never heard of a fixative or even had the thought in my head. So I'm infact learning about there are things that can make smells stay stronger longer. Got to know what's out there before getting to carried away. Also if you see your smell is getting weak fast may quit working on something that works well when all it needed was something added to keep the smell smelling.

But I understand exactly what you meant. And your 100% correct knowledge without experience to back it up is weak and often a good way to fail.

Generally, I prefer the paste type lures. Thin runny lures are Messy to use. Unless you have them in a squeeze bottle! I do use both.
Most baits & lures will last pretty long, depending on the ingredients?
I would say the paste is going to out last the liquid?

This book has a wealth of information. Best lure/bait info I have seen. If you want to learn you have to experiment. Your going to need a big check book. My advice is dont buy any ingredients from the big trap supply houses. Not urine not castor not musk not fish oil. Traps and tools yes not bait/lure making stuff.

I'm very new to this, but I agree with Yes sir and danny.

I generally prefer pastes just for ease of use.

Don’t have to worry about leaky containers as much, most liquid lures have some solids that eventually plug a squirt cap that you than have to fight with in the field. And I do believe pastes generally outlast liquids.

Runnier stuff has grown on me for summer use though. I can soak a bit of liquid lure even just into the dirt and slap a trap in front of it. Bugs can’t run off with it, my summer sets are often extremely subtle, no holes, no bones, no nothing. Nothing to put paste “on” or “in” many times.

Rebaiting this morning with my 13 year old I was not paying attention to the bottle in my hand and put 1/4 oz of lure on my pants and boot toe. So good point.

Where do you suggest buying ingredients?

Id suggest buying them from someone who makes lures like JR Sons, Jameson's, Kaatz, Dobbins and so on, especially if its glands.. That said I do buy oils from MTP and they seem just as good as anyones..But Tim is a dang fine lure maker too so no surprise there

All I'll say is there's a couple on that list I've bought from and that I'll never buy from again and a couple on there I wouldn't hesitate to buy from. One I've never tried.

Yep. Buyer beware. By glands from trappers. Froze fresh.