comstock beaver traps...impressive

I had a customer order 2 comstock beaver traps and when job is done i get my normal fees plus both traps...i am very impressed with these traps...mr Comstock a very well done job...will take pics of the sets with beaver in em

Go get 'em Josh!

Just pulled the last one off a job this morning using the Comstock beaver trap.

Just caught one tonight myself, the best one, the last one. Got it in a dam break set, a bit different. Usually I put the trap on the dam at an angle, part out of the water, upper door closed, lower door open and a bit under, but sometimes if there is a lot of junk around, logs, debris and a good slot, I put the whole trap in front the dam on the level, dam side door closed, but completely submerged. Allow the dam to leak a little, but not too much, and most of the time they just swim in to see whats up and its over. Had the trap in about 15 inches of water this time with logs and brush on top.

If we can get Angela to teach us how to catch two at once we'll have it.

Castor mound set with trap half in half out of water with one door closed...used hog panels to guide to opening...1 year old today

Better look at set with beaver in it

The only beaver I have caught was in a 15x15 comstock with a (This word is unacceptable on Trapperman) break set.

Comstock Cages are Sweet! I love mine and use them a lot. Only in locations that I know they will not grow legs and wander off on me!

How Do you make dam break set using cage trap?

What has worked, even for smart beaver that would not go through a cage or a 660 in a run, is a 12high x18 inch wide swim through cage placed on an the dam following the angle of the dam, with the trap set upside down. The upper end of the trap is partially above the water line on the dam with the door closed, while most of the trap in the pond is under water. The end of the trap facing into the pond is set about an inch or so under so that the beaver has to dive under to enter the trap. You can put some grass and leaves on top and sides to hide the trap, then mud if you like. Sometimes branches are o.k. too. With road fabric or the like you can hide the trap completely and mud it in solid so that no one can see it even from a few feet away with a catch inside. By reaching up under the trap from the exposed dam and removing a bit of mud to create a small trickle for the beaver to hear, you will have a set that the beaver won't pass by for long most of the time. Even if they feel nervous about the trap and set for a day or two, in time the leak is too much to take. They have to swim in to plug it. Since part of the trap is out of the water the beaver will be alive. You can tell from a long distance if you have made a catch if you haver covered the trap in mud as most of it will be gone. The small leak with under water entrance means that the beaver will carry no brush to plug it. In fact they have nothing with them when they enter the trap to access the problem. Sometime I cover the exposed end of the trap, but beaver do not seem to want to disturb dam sticks in place, but would rather add to what is already there.

This set can be made with the entire trap set level too, completely under water in an existing channel or a set you fashion just ahead of the dam, again, one door open. Night before last I got one in this type of set as there were logs to put on top of the trap as a deadman and junk to brush it all in. There are videos on Youtube also, showing this and other sets we have made to catch nuisance beaver.

Here is a channel set i made today with one ehere trap is half submerged and blocked off side with brush and put a dive stick on top

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Picture taken just at dark, pulled the last beaver out with the dam break set.

They work in dry beaver logging trails too, they don't seem to shy away in thick brush when they can see through both open doors. Just rake level and cover the floor with dirt and debris.

are you just relocating the beaver your catching alive?

The extremely steep banks were impossible to set, and difficult to access, so I trapped them on high ground, then dispatched them elsewhere. If you release beaver where there is a resident pair, the residents will try to kill the new beaver. They get mad as all heck.
.its best not to transplant them.

That is what i told my client but she wants em released...part of me bein able to keep traps...no problem

How much does these traps cost and where can they be bought or ordered from? Thanks

http://comstockcustomcage.com/

I set one today using hog panels on top of a crossover between 2 ponds...will see what happens

Jim, do you travel around to the various state conventions? Specifically the Pennsylvania one that's in June this year . Intrested in seeing some of your cages and possibly purchasing a few! Thanks in advance. I've already checked out your website very informative just want to see them in person.

Got a call today from client i had a big beaver in the trap....this is what i found in trap on crossover

Now an otter on a castor set

The end of the trap facing into the pond is set about an inch or so under so that the beaver has to dive under to enter the trap


Jim
Does this mean you'd prop up the underwater side of the trap to always be an inch or so underwater -- even if the drop off is sharper/deeper than that, so that you'll always be an inch under on that end? Make sense?

It's hard to visualize your set Jim Comstock. But sounds very effective

Caught a 65-pound beaver in a Comstock on Easter. I managed to get it back to the truck but needed about three men to carry me up the bank!

What size Comstock trap is that one your using?

The one pictured just above looks like a 12x18.

Yes, we do go to a few conventions. Have been going to conventions for most of the past 40 years, not set up with a booth until recently, just to see what new stuff was thought up over the winter and always a good time to see old friends. Looking to be in Kalamazoo at the Nationals and Herkimer, N.Y this year, sometimes Vermont. Have not planned on Pa., but noticed it is East this year, closer to us.

We use cage traps as a first tool for beaver in ADC for a pile of reasons, even where its back in. Just helped a trapper set a pond on a hunt club the other day. He went with me the in the morning to check 6 traps I had set the day before which held 4 large beaver and cleaned both colonies in one night. We set 6 traps at his two locations, got 4 the next day, 1 and 3. The first spot had only one beaver, the second had 9, which he caught in a few nights, couple of triples. Ended up with 2 adults, 3 two year olds and 4 yearlings, a double colony.

Got a call from a Massachusetts trapper yesterday who echoed our experience and now choosing to use cages over body grippers. Hearing it more all the time.

Nice "beaver" above. When a client calls and tells you whats in the trap I don't take them literally most of the time. It just means something is in the trap, just never know what till you get there, exciting.

I once drove 2 hours to pick up a skunk that turned out to be an open and set trap. The guy was terrified of skunks

We sometimes hear about "alternate" uses for all kinds of traps. Just saw a pic where one trapper used the beaver trap to catch a coon on a roof. He used the trap set upside down with the triggers coming up from the bottom. Set in this manner it is more difficult, if not impossible, for anything to miss the trigger wires. The doors are solid, so the coon can walk on the door without springing the trap, then hit the trigger and fire it as he tries to get through the wires. In this way they are not ducking or going around the trigger wires, but having to go through them.