Woodchucks & Bodygrips

Searching for an article I had come across recently (WCT?) on using bodygrips for chucks.
I've always avoided them like the plague for the "pet" factor but I've got a spot completely grown up and away from any living areas and on the side of a STEEP bank that's giving me fits with the cages.
Any tips on using bodygrippers or success stories with positive set cages under these conditions?
I managed to dig into the bank enough to put one baited cage near hole #1 but hole #2 would need scaffolding so the best I could do is put a baited double door on the trail from hole to lawn.

Thanks

Fencing them into the bodygrip should work really well. Planting them right in the opening of the hole is usually a sure thing. I

have never used bait in conjunction with bodygrips.

How do you secure them to the ground when placing them at the opening of the hole?

rebar

I'm interested in the same thing. I got an active burrow on a super steep bank- Yes, it's a groundhog.

Set it right into the opening , cleaned out under a guys barn that way. Funniest catch there was a mouse in a 160 coni there. Unlucky mouse

Secure them hard. A coyote looking for a free lunch can walk off with your catch

I use 160's in the holes and cover with hardware cloth. Hogs will try to push through and get caught in 160. Hardware cloth is stout enough that nothing can enter the hole. I use rebar T-stakes to anchor everything.

If pets are problem just use a relaxing snare No reason this can't be fun

I use 160's with short H - stands put in at an angle to accommodate the hole. Quick and easy.

Start with checking your laws to see what you can use. In Ohio, we have several rules when it comes to using body gripping traps on groundhogs. First is the trap cannot be more than 3 feet from the entrance of the hole or structure the groundhog is using. Second, you are limited to using a body gripping trap with a jaw spread of 5 inches or less UNLESS you install an enclosure to prevent animals from entering outside of the trapping area and then the limit is 7 inches. Third, only licensed CNWACO's are allowed to use snares for groundhogs. We used to have seasonal dates when we could use body gripping traps, but that was removed when the program was rewritten.

With these restrictions, I prefer to use 5 x 5 traps when doing lethal sets. I've used both square jaw and round jaw 5 x 5 without any issues. The key will be the springs they have installed on them so don't be surprised if you need to widen the opening a bit to get the trap to set properly. I don't like standard 160 springs on my 5 x 5 traps, but that is what the majority of traps are made with as it is easier to set them. I prefer the Bridger 155 as they have a shorter spring and magnum style jaws. Before the 155 was readily available, I used to use 120's but I really don't like using them as the jaws may not clear the skull on a large 'chuck and I've had to dig several out that pulled the stakes. While it may not seem like much, a 120 will generally yield 20 1/4 square inches while a 5 x 5 will yield 25 square inches which makes for a perfect head strike on adult groundhogs and raccoon.

As for making the set, I like to bend my trigger wires with one pointing straight down and the other pointing out about 60 - 90 degrees. I then slide the trigger to the side that has the vertical trigger wire and set it with with the trigger facing out. To stake it down I use one T stake and stretch the chain or wire out away from the trap and then run the T stake through the ring or swivel if so equipped. I then use additional T stakes or sticks inserted between the springs, usually in an X configuration, to stabilize the trap.

I'll also add that I always ask if there are kids or small pets present. Whenever the answer is yes, I never do lethal control as it just isn't worth upsetting the client even though they said they would keep the pets and kids away from the sets. Just last year I had to deal with this when another operator caught the clients cat right beside the house. According to her, they never said one of her cats could be caught and killed and never offered any other type of capture technique such as cages, snares, or making an enclosure. I'm not saying they didn't offer and she said no or don't worry, just that her story was to blame the operator which is something our industry just doesn't need.

Don't forget, if you've got an area that requires more work like building a platform and installing so you can set the cage trap on a hill, don't try to take shortcuts, just add the additional expenses to the bill. To me, these are the simplest add on sales you can make.

A quote that I've borrowed quite a few times is, "just because you can, doesn't mean you should". Positive set with cage traps when at all possible. In rare select instances will I use lethal traps. A steep bank is one of those times, but the risks of using them have to be reduced before I'll use them then. No kids, loose pets, etc... Spend more time making sure there are no non targets than time targeting the target. Who can see the set up is also a consideration. You don't want to be the guy that is in the situation that gets these tools banned.

A KB stabilizer is the ticket when using small bodygrippers on groundhogs.

We haven't needed to use a body gripper on anything but muskrats and beaver since the invention of the Comstock.

Great info gang!
I think I dodged the bodygrip bullet by managing to pull the Hog about 5ft up the hill and got it in a 2 door 9x9.
If memory serves I think it was Noonan that had the article in WCT.

t-stake thru the ring, I also add a swivel my 220's and 160's.

I don't very often use a body gripper for chucks for the obvious reasons, not wanting to get mixed up with kids or pets in any way, but also use them when a visible cage in high traffic areas might be susceptible to theft. I have used 1 such set this year, a very small percentage, but great when you need it. You can use whatever size trap you like. I just happened to have some 160 Belisles.

I dig out the opening so that the trap with a KB stabilizer sets down into the hole, (might have to dig it out a bit.) to get it below ground level. I want the top of the trap to be just below the surface of the surroundings in the den entrance, just under a covering to be placed over it. The key to making the set work is hiding it completely. Since cats don't dig and kids won't see it when its buried, the only critter at issue is a dog. With no scent, no bait or lure, there is nothing new for the dog to find interesting or attractive, same old dirt as before.

I then use a small square of plywood, 18 inches square?, or cage wire with some old linoleum squares places over the top to cover the set almost completely. Then put dirt on top of it all, hiding the cover too. Only dirt is visible. I cover whats left of the entrance with dirt, leaving an opening the size of a silver dollar. Any chuck in the hole meets the trap coming out of course. The covered opening with the small entrance shows the chuck the way to go. Anyone who fills a chuck den without first catching the chuck knows it will likely get dug out in a matter of hours, about like a beaver and tearing out a dam. This covered set is no problem for the chuck as he will quickly go to the small opening, dig it out and get caught. The chuck I caught this year was returning to the den and had dug out the hole as planned, getting caught on the way back into the den.

A little BG trick:

Take a piece or 2, of threaded rod of the appropriate size to replace the hinge rivet, and length to reach past end at least a foot.
Put 90 deg bend on 1 end long enough to replace the rivet, plus 2 washers and 3 nuts
Punch out one or both hinge rivets
Screw on the 2 nuts and 1 washer and insert thru the rivet hole from the OUTSIDE, and the add other washer and nut
Jam the 2 nuts tight, and use the other nut to adjust tension

Now you have a Coni with a built in stabilizer leg/s, light weight and easy to carry.

Great great advice. Would never think to cover it that much!
Can't wait to try it...Well...I probably can as I've been lucky enough to use cages up to this point for the same reasons you outlined for avoiding bodygrips.

I can't add anything that hasn't already been said here. Some good advice. I would like to add that the 120 belisle is very effective on ground hogs and is more species specific because most dogs can't get deep enough for a killing catch. Pick your places to use the coni, cover it with wire to keep out non targets, use the hole for bait nothing else and if you cover it like Jim said you definitely should be alright. If you have any doubts about non targets don't do it.
My favorite is to set up a ground hog job early evening when they are active. When I see him I move towards him causing him to jump into a hole or culvert. Take a position 15 ft. or so from where he went in and shoot him in the head usually within 1 minute. He always sticks his head back out. Use a caller or whistle to encourage him if needed. A good air rifle will do it but if a firearm is permitted I would use a cci quiet segmented round. A suppressor is a good touch also.
Sometimes wildlife work is hard sometimes I can't believe I get paid to do what I might even pay to do.

The Belisle 120 actually as a larger frame (and hence a larger square inch opening) than most 120s making it almost a 155. The Belisle is 4 5/8 x 4 7/8 compared to the common 4 x 4 1/2 or 4 1/2 x 4 1/2 dimensions of most 120 traps.

Thats what I use to eliminate the Chucks in my farm and fathers.the H-stand and wired off. thru a path around the barn or weeded area or at the hole.

Ronaround, I'm guessing that neither you nor your father has farm cats. Or at least you don't have any after woodchuck season.

Paul. Correct no farm cats.Actually I have a cat at our house but we have only used foot traps for the vermin there. skunks and chucks.