plugging holes

I have some holes to fill so I can put in a bat door in an attic. A couple of the holes are in a corner not easy to get to. Has anyone tried an extension for great stuff I probably need about 3 feet. I can't get to them on the outside.

How about from the inside?

A 3 ft STIFF extension could work with great stuff, but I've not tried it.

Maybe in short squirts so TONS wouldn't come out and make a mess.

2 Trap - You likely know this, but I'm going to say it just for sake of anyone who doesn't, or who is new and about to attempt the same thing.

It is very very important to assure bats are not in proximity to anything like great stuff or foam or even caulk in terms of where you are placing it and if they are immediately roosting near the exit/entry hole.

One stuck bat will vocalize and cause problems with your exclusion, let alone injuring or killing the bat as once they are stuck they are going to be unable to fly, groom it out generally and therefore end up dead.

If you can use some large backer or something to separate the material you are trying to blow into the area that may help, as would the idea trapjohn put out there about doing it from the inside if possible. I have very few attics but when I do I love working from the interior where possible, though the pitch of the roof can make getting to the areas on the exterior nearly impossible.

Just wanted to state not so much for you as you might already be thinking it, but for anyone else, be careful when using anything "sticky" around entry/exit points, not good for bats to get it wrong and generally not good for you either in terms of outcome from the way a colony reacts to one of their own vocalizing a threat or injury.

Pics always help if you have any many folks on here might have better suggestions for alternate materials/methods.

Best,

Justin

A large ball of copper mesh and silicone an often be pushed up into the far reaches of a dormer tie in/overhang.

I agree with limestone, a pole with a Finnish nail, stick your copper mesh & glue on & seal it

Thousands of exclusions later....can't say we ever did it from inside.

Or even a Hungarian or Norwegian nail would work.

Ha!

To clarify about sealing from the interior, have only done so myself post venting of bats in full clean out situations.

Has helped on structures where hidden overhangs can't be reached from the exterior as well as some "swiss cheese" structures where finding all of the light coming through or openings was easier achieved inside the attic than on the exterior.

I'd agree that most are done from the exterior but I never rule out going interior if necessary or if it helps and the situation lends itself especially where full insulation and guano removal is happening.

2 Trap, have you had any bat training? If not, I would suggest Eric's (WCT on here), bat training course.

Same here. 26 years. However, I've done a BUNCH of bat jobs for folks who still had bats after an "inside" seal-up was attempted. Typically by the bug companies or wildlife companies that do very little bat work.

Bat work is NOT easy..... exterior sealing is nearly 100% mandatory. You access the exterior using whatever is needed. Lifts, scaffolding, climbing with harnesses, etc.

I think Ron's right but I think HD is right on a cleanout you might do some sealing from the inside. On an old museum historical building that had a lot of gaps I didn't do it but recommended foam insulation after the cleanout in the winter. It stopped the bats and made a new climate controlled storage area for the museum. The attic temp is similar to the living quarters.

I have used old arrows as an extension tube on Great Stuff and similar foam products. Not for bat exclusions, but to better seal around vent ducting and the like.