Dog Proofs vs cages.

I am getting ready for a coon job, and from what I understand the woman has cage shied the coons. I was going to throw out 4 dog proofs, but wonder what you guys think about them for adc.

I don't. I can see some tender heart/soft head getting their butt in a sling over a trapped critter in one of bone crushing, foot chopping off traps and trying to pet or release the poor dear.

Well its not so much what we think , but what does she think? Explain your side to her explain the risks and ask her how she wants to proceed! Also if its a coon job, what does that have to do with trAp shy skunks?

There is a time and a place for everything!

Throw Back, I'm really not the right guy for this question but that never stopped me before. I don't own a dog proof and never have,

although they are perfectly legal everywhere in our state. My big thing is to do my job well, but keep a low profile. I don't feel

that dog proofs fit that description. ( And, of course, now that I said that, you know I'm going to need them ) Anyway, we have so

many different style cage traps that we've been able to take even the smartest raccoon simply by switching cages.

Are DP's legal in Cali?

they both have a place. look at the ground and if she is ok with them, and you can be out of sight out of mind then no problem. if you can't hide them then don't do it. I believe do what you have to do with the least amount of problem to get it done. cages are easier.

For WCO's and under strict guidelines

What are some things you guys do to lure in those cage shy coons?

You know, I have to call the department. After reading all 187 unclear pages of the regulations they dont appear to be. The little old lady at Fish and Wildlife said she thought they would be considered a coni under 6 inches, when they are really classified as a foothold. No one knows the trapping laws in this state and its becomming a headache.

Too bad I just bought 4 traps I cant use.

Look up some of the podcasts that Jonesie did on the subject.

Ok, so after reading, reading, and re-reading they are legal.

I'm sure we all have are own top secret trap shy coon bait we make no way I would come off mine atleast not the formula . DPs on a job people don't mind big catch ring In the yard plus there just dog proof they still catch dogs cats skunks possums foxes coyotes ect so if that's plan A I would go with plan B

Throw Back, the last trap-shy coon I caught by running a handful of lured mini-marshmallows through a Comstock.

Caution: Do not use the large beaver sized Comstocks. You'll spend all day releasing kids.

I got mallows in voo doo coon lure now

I explained to her the difference between the steel jaw and dog proof, and put my finger in one to show her. My finger hurts tho.

Trap shy coon, I believe are not going into a cage trap most of the time, unless forced and even then they may blow out a gable vent or open up a new hole in the roof. On the ground they will walk around the cage or like in my area just take off to come back 8 to 10 day later. Trap smart coon can be caught, they are the ones that play with your trap, but will not go into it work it from the outside or just go halfway in. I Do not believe it is the bait or lure that is the end as much as how you present the baits and lures. Now I am going to tell you that what I use is the best in the world if we are at a show, but here I am going to say, get the critter thinking on the baits or lures and wanting them outside of the trap and they will forget about the trap that is the ticket. By the way 80% will go right in. 10 % will make you cuss a little and the last 10% will make me cuss a lot and throw things. This is just my thoughts could be wrong.

Wendall Reeves told me about a large coon that was cage shy. The coon work the trap circling-even climbing on the 12x16x28 cage he was using, but would not go in. He could tell the coons focus was on the bait inside. He placed a double doored trap between the house and the trap (with no bait or lure) the coon had been circling. He caught the coon that night.

I have caught beaver many a time in traps whether they are conibears, snares, or cage traps with the bait placed in the center with the traps place to where the beaver is caught circling and not paying attention. It is the same principle. The exception is that with a cage the animal acts as a decoy for the next animal as long as the cages are set properly.

Example: Set three large-tall double door traps in the shape of a triangle right out in the water at a level of 4-8". Place a fake caster mound in the middle of the triangle formed by the cages. Use no bait in the cages. You catch one, you,ll probably catch another. If the traps are tall the beaver won,t climb over, but circle and go in.

I will try this. I am going to have to buy a double door, and to think I thought I might make money on this job :S

A coon working the trap is not cage shy but cage smart. There is a big difference. That coon type you mentioned Kirk is either cage smart or dumb as snot. Eric Arnold and I talked for at least 2 hours one night not long ago on baiting cages. The way a person baits a cage can cause the coon to work the back sides, back and top of a cage rather than the front. By a simple baiting technique change they can get those coon to the front of the trap. the dumb go right in, the smart will still play with me unless I get them thinking about other things. A trap smart coon knows what is going on with a cage. they know what is the norm. one of the tricks I do with the above mentioned type of coon is simply turn the trap around so the open door is now where the back of the trap was and put the bait there where it was and some inside the back. Most people only bait the back of a trap, so why wouldn't the coon go to the back of a trap. If you ever watch a coon work a cage that is baited only in the back they will most of the time go to the downwind side of the trap and wind the bait. If they want the bait or lure then they will work the trap from that spot because that is where the bait is. Now I am going to shut up now because Paul tells me I give out too much info for free and I don't want him yelling at me any more.

I hope Jonesie isn't referring to me. Heck, I've been known to give away entire subscriptions of free information.

The trap Wendall was using was this trap. It was designed purposely years ago to catch a circling coon (basically designed to do what you described but the trap does not need to be turned around). By a double doored trap between the house and this trap the circling coon would be after the bait at both ends leading him into the double doored trap.



Here is a beaver set with the lure only in the large cage. The beaver can get to the back of the large cage where the lure is by going through the double doored cage with no lure in it. That is how he got caught. Same principle as above.



The double doored trap Wendall caught the coon with was a 10x12x30 swingdown doored fast door trap.

yep that will do it. I just use one trap most of the time, but there is no, "one way of doing this stuff". Just figure it out and get ur done. But again a shy coon or skunk in my area will leave the site completely and not mess with the trap. I bait so I can tell from day one if I have a problem. I don't want to wait 3 days to figure out what I have.

Well, if I dont catch anything tonight, I will try the dog proofs tomorow

That double trap of Kirk's is effective and efficient. If I was going to use dog proofs I would set them in pairs. The coon will pull both of them greatly limiting his ability to do further damage. I use them ocasionally but for the most part they are not the best tool in our situations. I wouldn't feel bad about having 4 of them in my tool box but I wouldn't put my finger in one to demonstrate how they work. That hurts thinking about it.
If you get the WCT magazine Ron wrote a very good article on baits and lures that I think it will help you with trap smart coons.

Do I need a post or would a cinderblock be enough?