Snaring Beaver?

I have a duck lease with a dozen lakes - full of beavers. I have trapped beaver years ago with foot holds and connibears but no longer have any suitable traps for beaver. Because there are so many spots for a trap, decided I might buy some snares instead of investing back in a bunch of traps. You can see where beavers are crossing over the levee.



Looks like this on both ends. Many spots like this and also a bunch of scent mounds. Do you just narrow it down at waters edge and hang a snare there. I know most beaver arent real wary - do guide sticks scare them off much. Quite a few otter in here too. How deep of water where you place the snare?

Better get a handle on those rascals or you'll have a beaver lease with a few ducks....

I'd cover that place with snares at every crossover. And snares at the best mounds. Use blocking limbs....

Snares are reasonable. Get them and land mine the place. They are a good tool when used right.

Screams for a snare.

I have better luck hanging them off the bank in water like in the photo. But the same applies with 330s vs parking them directly on the bank.

Catch them where they are moving not transitioning land to water.

I look for natural pinch points like in the picture versus a bunch of blocking or fencing. I will do blocking but prefer to find something they are already using so blocking and foreign objects are minimal.

If looping off to a tree be sure to anchor under water as live snared beaver chew. They've been known to take down the tree the snare is looped to.

This is good advice^^^

Locking yourself into one tool on a beaver nuisance job is not a good idea.

Nobody paying me to do this, so I hate to go spend $1000 on trapping supplies for maybe a week or two of trapping. I am 45 miles away and have other things I need to be doing, too. Fortunately, I do like trapping

If you intend to hold the lease for any amount of time, I’d invest in some traps.

Here's a picture of a beaver snared at a crossover like you have pictured. Was passing between the big tree and a limb laying in the water. You can snare them up on the bank but when it's already naturally blocked down I go with that.

They can also be snared on dryland if legal and you got the option. This one they were crossing over the road and had a beat down path along the top of the concrete retaining wall. So snares got hung from the handrail.

So when your snaring beaver On dry land How high Is the bottom of the snare off the ground? And how large would your loop be? I can't see tying to catch a beaver by the head with a snare.

The other question Is I caught a lot of beaver by placing a 330 half way submerged tight against a large tree trunk with some castor placed on that tree trunk. Would that also work with a snare?

Funny you asked this because I did neck snare one on dry land earlier this season. Bottom of snare about 2 inches off ground with about a five inch loop...


Now all we have down here is cowboy hat beaver so I don't worry about a snare mark. About the same distance of ground but with about an 8 inch loop. Snare them behind front legs like this one I caught a few weeks ago crossing a low levee...

On flat ground I like a 8" max loop 4" off the ground. On slides about 2" off.

Never snare at the water edge or edge of the top of a bank. More misses due to weirdness. If you don't have deer stops, you'll foot snare a lot of beaver at the top edge of banks. If you have deer stops you'll have closed snares and wondering what happened.

One span, thumb tip to pinky tip spread wide, and two fingers off the ground. I try to get one front leg in the loop.

I was with you up to that point. We snare all ours at the edge of the water or a few inches up the bank. They are almost all caught by the neck. The exception being the occasional little guys that get snared behind the front legs. We carve out a notch in the bank to guide them, no sticks typically. It's easy and they come to you. It's not ADC trapping though, we don't care if we leave a smart one for seed.

I just like staying off those edges a bit just because its a bit unpredictable at those spots on how theyre coming through the snare. Caught a lot doing that when I have to do to rules but Id rather not

I hope this thread gets even more input, but I feel like it is already worthy of the archives if there’s not a comparable thread already there.

We are only allowed to snare if the loop is half in the water. It can be problematic with our fluctuating water levels , moving everyday sometimes with dropping water. All that being said I’ve had to make due with lots of fencing and small loops. Digging out a spot like ADC does works well when you’ve the got the right circumstances. A good food lure such as Iroquois is great with snares.

I snare probably 90% of the beaver I trap. Placing your set so that the beaver swims underneath a leaning branch etc. is like fishing with dynamite! A little dab of castor on the leaning item, or slightly higher works really well. I often make my own leaning set that I like to call the triangle of death just by placing an old T post accordingly. Ill try to get some pictures up once the water goes down around here. Lately my go to snare has been 60" of 1x19 5/64" cable, with a Bridger toothed camlock, 8-10 inch loaded loop.

I have too much video of live neck snared beaver working the loop off with their front paws. They most definitely can do it. Although once they are held the first 5 minutes or so not a lot will manage to get the loop off, some manage to escape hours after being caught just by working the loop with front feet. Overall it is not something I would say happens most of the time or even a whole lot, but enough that I don’t try to do it.

Also, I have not evaluated every cable/lock combination with that observation, so there may be some setups that could minimize or eliminate neck caught escapes.

Get at least one front foot in the loop and they are not getting loose. With this, I am not giving any consideration to leather stripes or fur damage, of course.

I run fast, loaded snares made out of 1/16 1x19 cable, release ferrules and slim locks. I've yet to find a snare for beaver that suggested it was thrown off and I neck snare 90% of the beaver.

I use slim locks on loaded snares also. While I guess it's possible a beaver could work it off it's neck it would have to stop immediately when the snare fired. Of course neck snaring beaver is something I just experiment with since all the beaver in this part of the country are hatters. I do snare them on dry land often.

Maybe it is my setup. We must use a “relaxing” lock, and I use reverse bend Riechert locks with 5/64” 1x19 cable. No stops or release devices.

I will say that on several occasions I had empty snares that did not seem obvious that a beaver escaped, but video showed exactly what happened. The vast majority of them don’t escape when neck caught though, so it is not a huge factor. I am a nuisance business only, no fur trapping, so I much prefer a body catch.

I will probably stick with my current setup since I like it best of what I have tried, but if your goal is to neck snare beavers there probably are better setups. Everything has advantages and disadvantages, and different situations and regulations are also factors to be considered. I also do not use any swivels on beaver snares, and I have never had one break or twist off of 5/64” 1x19 that I know of.

I expect that 1/16” cable would be better for holding neck snared beavers, so I don’t doubt you.

If I remember my testing using that lock and cable for coon snares, that lock would actually bounce back a bit when you first fire the snare.

Interesting. I have not noticed that with the locks I am using. I will test that again though to be sure. There are a few variables like type of loading and the bend/termination at the lock. In fact there are so many variables when building snares that I keep an open mind about finding something better, because one little tweak can make a big difference.
Do you recall testing any that are sold as “relaxing” that were better than your reverse bend washer locks in that regard?
I’m glad newt listed those little locks he makes as relaxing, they look like a great little lock and the one sample he sent me along with a cable order worked perfectly. I am just about through the last batch of reverse bend and may try something new when I make loops in the near future.

Fast loaded snares and cam locks for me. Specifically mini cam locks.

Building snares is a fun hobby sometimes as there's just all kinds of ways to build a snare.

Ohios definition of relaxing basically means there is no such thing as a non relaxing lock.


Quick thing on bouncing, we're only talking about . 25-.50 of an inch.


Of the ones I can think of, probably the sure lock is probably the most bounce resistant. Especially if you run 7x7 cable, which really should eliminate any bouncing at all . Not that id intentionally run 7x7 cable for anything on a snare other than as an extension

The effect also seems to more pronounced on shiney new cable. I build and test snares before treating cable. After treatment I verify that the lock still fires smoothly.

Sure locks seem to be listed as non-relaxing.

Indiana law defines relaxing in such a way that depending on how you interpret it, all one piece locks are legal, or none are. I asked for clarification and was told “if it is sold as relaxing you should be ok”. While I could probably win a court challenge if ticketed, that would likely prompt yet another new definition that would not likely be in trappers’ favor, so I am going to just stick with locks that are sold as relaxing from the supplier. No need to poke that bear.

Ohio's definition of a relaxing lock is one that stops tightening when the animal stops pulling.

All locks do that...

yep, still have people try to tell me that you cant run x lock in ohio.

Sounds like some suppliers should start labeling cam locks as relaxing locks. They are by Ohio standards.

So basically Ohio says you can't use kill springs or "spring assist" locks? That's the only way I know of a lock to continue tightening when the animal isn't pulling on it.

Correct can't use a mechanical device that assists in closing the snare

I love that idea. And any one piece lock does in fact relax a bit when an animal stops pulling. It may only be 1/64”, but it relaxes. So the suppliers can honestly list any one piece lock as relaxing. If I were the supplier I would also note that some states may define relaxing empirically or with specific parameters so always check your laws before using. But for those of us whose DNR directs law enforcement to check the supplier designation, it would sure be nice, and I will say it again, it would be honest and in good faith to list one piece locks as relaxing. No sleight of hand or stretch of truth to it.
Edit: I see you said cam locks. They are not one piece, but they too must relax a bit it seems. But I would be happy just to have all one piece locks automatically listed as relaxing.

My beaver snaring is under ice. I know a lot of guys use baited sets, but most of mine are just snares set where they are going. I've snared lots of beaver, and I get them mostly by the neck but also by the middle, tail and even the teeth and nose. It's amazing how a 50-60 pound beaver can get through and be snared by the tail. I have a lot of rats in most of my spots so I set the lock so it's not firing fast.

A couple snare poles can cover quite a wide area.
I use them occasionally with tangle stakes in open water nuisance beaver removal.

Build yourself one of these slide makers. Cut a groove deep and there no need for guiding. Works very slick!

Think id just walk farther down the creek till I found a real slide lol

I do a pretty good slide using a standard off the shelf garden hoe.

Usually can't do that with Right of way trapping(bridge hopping) in Iowa :-(

Plus, its for spring time traveling beavers that we are trapping most of the time. That slide takes seconds to make with the right tool.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/lP75Eiw68Lk