Shock Springs

Tis the offseason here in PA and so begins the trap tweaking. I have kicked around the idea of adding inline shock springs to my coyote traps. I have a very rudimentary knowledge of shock springs as I don't believe they are necessary for fox, but with the coyotes moving in, I'm a firm believer that its important to hold the biggest thing in the field. I'm open to all opinions and experiences but I'll list a few questions that have been rolling around in my mind. I am aware there are many successful coyote trappers catch a lot of coyotes without the aid of shock springs, but if I am able to increase my hold rate with shock springs, I think its a worth while investment, especially on those toe catches.

-Shock Spring styles/manufacturers: P.I.T, JC Conner, Sleepy Creek? Any experience or preference?
-What LB Tension? 40lb, 50lb, 75lb?
-Do you keep the spring closer to your anchor, closer to the trap, or in the middle?
-How long of chain do you typically run with an inline shock spring?

Thanks for your help, opinions, and experiences.

The J.C. Conner heavy duty are what I mostly run. Swivel on the D- ring, 4 links of chain, swivel, shock spring, 4 links of chain, swivel, double stake ring or earth anchor.

Not only will it help hold coyotes, but it can really help to keep domestics and wild from shoulder damage from lunging. 1st time I saw the spring in action I was sold.

In my opinion shock springs are a waste of time and money. Just more stuff to bury at the set. And short chains solve any perceived injuries to non targets. In fact domestic critters don't fight a trap like a wild critter does.

When the small amount of play In the shock spring Is bottomed out the critter Is still on the move so I don't see where It's of any value. It might have some value In 4 or 5 foot chain set up where the critter can get up a head of steam but I still have my doubts about that. And On a10" chain set up I can't see any value. But If It works for you that's all that counts.

Not all domestics are the same. Beav- have you tried the shock springs and seen them work on a catch?

Finally someone that sees it the same way as I do.

Short chains have always worked for me.

Doesn’t that add about 10$ to each trap?

When your running dozens of canine traps that can be cost prohibitive.

Springs are around $25/doz, the rest of the chain typically comes stock with any trap. So if you catch 1 extra coyote per dozen traps with the aid of a spring, your springs have paid for themselves. I have zero experience running springs so I don't know if they increase your catch rate or not but if they hold one extra toe catch coyote it would be worth it.

I tend to agree with the Beav on one aspect , short chains eliminate movement . If your using earth anchors and short chains ( 8” or less ) I don’t feel the need for a shock spring. I’ve gone from long ( 30” ) chains and shock springs while using single stakes to the short chains and earth anchors.

I feel as if I’m working a lot harder retrieving earth anchors than I did stakes . That being said I’m going to go back to stakes at least for frozen ground . I’ve been using JC Conners shock springs, I’ve got some of the older ones with the lock washer connectors and some of the newer version that require a swivel on each end. For long chains either one will work , for short chains the two swivels ad more length and the shock spring is another 41/2 or 5” in my mind this makes it hard to keep a short chain .
Each person should reach his own conclusions based on their situation. By that I mean the entire situation, including ground conditions soil types and type and size of trap .

You asked about different weights and styles or manufacturers of shock springs and I’ve only tried the JC’s but will be ordering the pits from Ed as they are made with a built in swivel on each end I’ve yet to ask him what he recommends for weight but I’m betting on the 50 lbs ones for coyote .

It doesn't take much time or effort to bury a 4 inch spring.

I have talked with Ed about shock springs and he often talks about the need for shock springs on short chains specifically. He said often that first lunge when they jump straight up is going to be the most likely time they would pull out of a toe catch. He also said on longer chains when they jump they never reach the end of the chain so there is no chance of a pull out on the initially lunge, but later on in the fight against the trap is when shock springs are important on longer chains, like you said, when they can get a run.

Like I said, I'm not here to argue, I am legitimately trying to determine if the investment is worth it.

Ed did mention a trial he was a part of where they set traps with Force Meters attached and he rattled off some numbers regarding the lbs of force on that first lunge (I believe he said an average 30lb coyote has a force of over 200lbs on the initial lunge, but don't quote me on that) and he said that the first bit of thrashing is the most important one to withstand and where shock springs are important.

Shock springs are not necessary but I love them and use them on all my coyote rigs. Try pulling up on an earth anchor to set it with a shock spring attached to the trap and you will feel the difference. I use JC Conner's as well.

Well from that pic there Is 10" of shock spring + swivels. Know you add several more links of chain on either end and your looking at 15 to 16 " and that Is a lot to bury. Especially In frozen ground.
A chain length of about 8" with swivels and then driven down In to the ground when using a earth anchor Isn't going to let any critter make much of a lunge.

If they work for you so be It but I'm not convinced they help.

I actually cut a couple of factory links off my 650s and add a spring and swivel to the end of the chain so I don't have much to bury at all.
Some of us don't believe a #2 Duke is worth the time or effort either, but that's why they make chocolate and vanilla.

Canebrake with a 650 do you worry about pull outs is this the reason for the shock spring????

Short chains. Invest in more traps.

Here is something to consider imo then
.a shock spring is rated at 50 lbs ,and coyote is lunging at 200lbs (for this example ) the shock spring is bottomed out now at the beginning of the lunge correct??? I am not saying there Bad or Good just adding to the comments already given .

Coalbank - you omitted one swivel in your description of your chain system. I make mine the same - cut one link and put it together. Just having fun.

Yes, they do bottom out, but the shock springs are about lessening the blow, so using a 75lb spring would lessen that force by 27.5%. Is that enough to matter? I don't know. But I intend to find out.

What does a 650 have to do with it?

No, I don't necessarily use them to reduce the chance of a pull out. I can't help but think they would help tremendously with stake pumping should the need arise, as well as soften the blow on the animal fighting the trap, whether it is a coyote, fox, or the neighbor's dog, and that's never a bad thing.

Use what you like and have confidence in.

That was the point I was trying to make.

Canebrake I was tring to get a handle on reason the 650 was in conversation is all.

There's better ways to add more fur to your end of year pics than shock springs IMHO

Why does this forum not have a like button?

Whether or not a shock spring would really add much in regards to catches, I don't know. But I think there is a lot to be said for a person who takes good care of the critters they're trapping. IMO if adding shock springs to all of my traps prevents just one busted shoulder, they're a worthwhile addition.

Wondered that myself lol

I go the cheap route and add stop shock springs to all my yote traps I personally think it wears them down faster. a tired animal don't fight as hard.Its the same concept as the flex on a fishing pole. And I care about the over all health of any critter ive caught! If I choose to release it im certain it wont run out of sight then die from internal injurys

We need to pamper them poor things since they are killers.

I run them and I like them, but they get plugged with mud and then you have a big chain link when it freezes. i'm probably in the minority, but I don't want to "kill em all" . If I catch one that is rubbed, or has been injured in a fight, I let them go. I run jakes, and they all have JC's shock spring. Oh, my chain set up is 3 ft long total, so normally about 18 to 24 inches above the ground when the earth anchor is buried .

Schock springs shine in extended check areas where the animal could be in trap for day or more and in live market trapping. If you feel the need do it

im not to concerned with a yote but if I catch a red I like the option of knowing it can be released without it ending up killed by yotes.I firmly believe they can and do save shoulders

I've trapped a lot of coyotes but have never observed one that broke it's shoulder from being trapped. I don't run long chains or long extended checks so I'm not saying it can't or won't ever happen. But I would like to see statistics (actual evidence) from necropsies or other trusted means that it's causing major damage to their shoulders. Sure there could be some bruising or soreness but nothing life altering to them. Unless I'm provided with good evidence from testing with various lengths of chain I see no need to outfit every trap of mine with one. They may have there place in certain situations that you deal with and if they make you feel better then go ahead and use them.

I have not viewed shock springs as much as a shoulder saver but more as an aid in retaining toe caught coyotes. I am also skeptical about the actual evidence that shoulders are torn up without shock springs

If it were I, I would take the advice of others who mentioned putting the money into good equipment instead holding that occasional toe caught coyote. I haven't had a lot of toe catches but with my equipment the ones that I've had were still there the majority of the time. Sure I've lost few over the years due to toe catches but I'm not sure if a shock spring would of helped in those situations or not.

I ll get toe catch every once in a while also.
But when I do ,,,, I look on it as my mistake, poor guiding ,not enough tension. Or a weak springs on a trap . Or other odd reason.
I think some of this can be contributed to the freeze thaw cycle between nite and day slowing trap down. Nothing is 100 % just some more to think about.

I started with a smaller size trap with a large pan and had toe catches frequently but switched to a #3 size trap mostly and pretty much most all of the toe catches went away. Still use the smaller trap some if I run out of clean traps and when do I they still get a higher percentage of toe catches than I like. With that I think I may put a little more dirt covering over my traps than some which may be a contributing factor. Just me experience.

This is targeting coyotes.

We read on here all the time that a 4 coil trap dose not freeze as fast as a 2coil. If I add a shock spring (5coil) will that extra stored spring energy keep my sets even more unthawed?

My experience of one shock spring is, a coon ate it lol.
I figure my sample of one is about the same as none.

We can listen to those that use em,
listen to those with no experience,
or try the dang things,
crap there just traps.

Somebody has to keep the guys in business that come up with things that are said to keep animals from hurting themselves in traps.

I still don’t understand the thought process that looks at a foot with utter horror if there is the slightest amount of “damage” but then runs a small piece of lead thru that animals skull with no remorse.

Not a necessity but an option

Buy a dozen...put them on your traps

Run them a season or two...you'll answer your own question along with some first hand experience

If you don't like them.....take them off and sell them on Trap Shed

Replace with a swivel

As stated, short chains have the same outcome as a shock spring.

I just got off the phone with Ed Medvetz, the man is an encyclopedia of information on government trapping study’s. He claims the biggest advantage of the spring is to give the trap that extra split second to lockup . This is not an issue with a full pad catch but is with a toe catch and chains shorter than 20” . He also said they did a study in PA with Dp’s and had very few pull outs when adding a 32 lbs. spring for coon .

The late Del Kramer also believed the same thing that is why he was a advocate for long chains.

Ed relayed those same sentiments to me as well. I know he is the spring manufacturer, but he had data to back it and told me just as many situations where springs wouldn't help as he did where springs would help. Ed is a straight shooter as far as I can tell.

You can find studies that say the world is flat, too.

Theres a reason why we don't add chain to DPs.

Some of us have already tested these theories.

But to each his own. Do what works for ya.

The only time I’ve had an issue with a pull out on a Dp was if I set too close to something the coon could get ahold of. This is where Ed says to use the spring to take away their power. I say move to a better location !