Bark on cabin

Getting ready to build a cabin in a new area Im opening up on my trapline. Going to be building it this winter and don't want the hassle of peeling frozen logs. Anyone have any experience building with unpeeled logs? How do they hold up over the years? I've built lots of log cabins but always peeled the logs first.

I built two like that in Februarys past. The beetles got into the logs the first summer. Other than hearing them chew, and sawdust falling, there really wasn't much downside. The bark eventually all fell off. Dirty but quick. I have read that if you run the saw down one side it will discourage or prevent beetles. ...because they work around the log . When they encounter the break in the bark they can't continue.

I have no idea whether that's valid

http://www.baileysonline.com/Chainsaws/C...rd-Debarker.axd

Anyone ever used one of these? Wonder if it'd work on frozen bark?

The log wizards are actually pretty slick. I don't know why they wouldn't work on frozen logs...maybe not as fast but certainly faster than drawknives.

I would think that if you could access the logs on a warm late season day like in April you should be able to peel them pretty easy. Maybe not perfect but enough to get them clean enough to discourage the bugs.
I worked one winter building a wooden logging bridge and the stringers were large white spruce, was one of the hardest jobs I had, peeling frozen logs, we would use a chainsaw as much as we could but mostly a draw knife, never want to do that again.

Peeled about fifty white pines one time for my log house some peeled like butter others you had to scrap the inter cambium bark off which was not easy to do.
At the right time winter cut logs in the spring will sweat and the bark comes off easy, you may be able to do this after the building is up.

As W17 mentions, bark beetles (mainly Ips beetles) will eventually "peel" the bark off. In the meantime, it is messy as (This word is unacceptable on Trapperman). It also slows the drying process to some degree.

I have always peeled the logs myself before building the cabin. The log wizard tool is fantastic. Particularly good if you miss "prime time" for peeling and the bark dries out and sets up. Not only can you rapidly remove bark, but you can also "tune up" your notches and flatten/plane the tops/bottoms of logs. One tip though, get some extra blades so all work doesn't have to stop when you dull the primary set. They are hard steel and a real bear to sharpen.

Pete

location would probably prevent this method but I built a bark on cabin and in the spring pumped water from a river and pressure washed the bark off. This was before chinking

Peeling all the bark off is the best way to prevent insect infestations, it will slow the decay of the wood and allow you to chink it without the chinking falling out or breaking seal, if you choose to do it at sometime. It will also have the added benefit as stated before of keeping the inside of your cabin much cleaner. it's usually well worth the effort. One good tip if you plan on having the cabin for a while is to dissolve a borate powder in water and douse all the logs with a garden sprayer (wear a mask), allow it time to dry thoroughly and hit all the wood with a 50/50 mix of linseed oil and turpentine. This will prevent rot, kill any bugs like carpenter ants, termites or flies that live in the logs, (for many years), and waterproof the logs as well as preventing the borate product from leeching out of the wood. Google Sashco products and you'll be able to see a great tutorial on making a log cabin last a very long time with minimal maintenance. Pete's dead on about peeling logs when they are still pretty green, wayyyy.. easier.

Here's pics of a before and after. The log with the bark removed with the remnants of bug crap and bark residue. Then the same log wire brushed.

The bugs make the peeling process easier as they loosen the bark but they leave an awful mess behind. You can actually hear them chewing on your wood if you listen carefully. As mentioned above, I treated my logs with a zinc borate solution after they were peeled and cleaned. It acts as an insecticide and a fungicide. It inhibits bugs and rot.

I used a bark spud to remove the bark, not a drawknife.

From these pics above I can see that the Long-horned bettles, (Cerambycidae) have already made their initial cambruim entry and have gone into the logs center. For their 1-2 year life cycle to be completed.
If there was any forest fire within 15 miles, 2 years prior, the adults have a long dispersal when they smell fresh cut logs

At this latitude, our more common beetle issues in fresh cut logs are from Ips and to some degree, Dendroctonus (rufipennis).

Pete (recovering forester)