You can use old film canisters with a cottonball inside as a lure holder.

This one is kind of hard to explain. When you have wire coon stretchers that the hooks won't hold tight and want to relax their grip, there is a fix. Just take a socket out of your 3/8 or 1/2 inch socket set that is a little bigt larger than than inside of your hooks. Place that socket inside the hooks next to the wire of the stretcher and place it on a hard surface and smack it with a hammer. It will expand the width of the hook body next to the stretcher and they will hold like new.

dont store urine in 20 oz coke bottles and have it up front when your thirsty.............made for an interesting date heh

Yep, use those, cut in squares, to even cover up the bait at cage traps!

When adjusting coil spring traps, if the lever scrapes the end of frame when setting, tap the spring pin back and forth until no more drag.

For those trapping in Lynx country, use a short string of christmas tree tensil as a visual attractor hanging out from your cubby set. Curiousity kills the cat.

FOR THOSE OF YOU THAT RUN IN THE DARK:

Go to WallyWorld or KameApart and buy a packet of reflective tape (the kind that folks put on semi-trailers and ATV trailers). Cut the tape in 1 1/2" pieces. Now cut 10" lengths of tie wire (or bailing wire) and form a "U" in one end. Peel the adheasive lable off one of the pieces of reflective tape, and place it on the loop, doubling it over the loop so the adheasive sticks to itself. Now you should have a little 8" wire with a small reflective "flag" on one end. You can either stick them in the ground near your sets, or tie them to a tree limb. They really light up when your flashlight or headlights hit them, but can't really be seen in the daylight.

You can also use glow in the dark push pins.Also glow in the dark twist ties,like the ones used on a loaf of bread.The twist ties work real good when checking snares along a fence line.

A few that I learned...

bed your trap solid, even take dirt and pinch it around they trap and tap it in with your hammer make sure it is solid.

Rather than digging dirt holes use a rerod stake or buy a hammer that has a dirt hole digger on it, saves weight and I think it looks and works better. easier to make it deep.

Use white cotton in the bottom of dirt holes

stick to simple and fast sets. I tried all the goofy pipe sets, cubby, big hole sets, etc, but I found it takes too much time or is a pain to carry in and out.

when you are done skinning coon through them in a plastic bag and put them in the freezer for a while and it makes fleshing them much easier and not as greasy

tims924, some really great tips for new comers as well as us guys who have been at it a few years...thanks.

Some guy wanted to know about washing coyotes....I save some of the "plain water" after I rinse them, (just after skinning) in a 5 gallon bucket of luke warm tap water....when you smell it, you'll know why!

I use it at ( some) coyote sets, dispensed with a one gallon garden pump type sprayer. Never spray it over the trap, just around the set area. Extremely attractive to coyotes as it has the natural body odor of a coyote!
Works the same on foxes using a fresh skinned fox pelt...although foxes are harder to dry out. I've use old laundry mats late at night in a distant town for that!

One tip I can pass along to trappers...Never let your competition know what kind of operation you're running....less said the better. Lots of jealousy out there, even among friends...well maybe not TRUE friends. But then.........

Before throwing away your cologne bottle when it's empty, you might want to use it to catch those wary coyotes, fox and occasional bobcat. Polo works very well, especially if you add it to a tuff of dry grass and light it with a match.

Never failed me before...

In yote and fox territory, set a double trap one out front for coyotes 8-9" in front of the hole, bait, lured site or flat set and the other up close 2-3" away from the same location. The coyote usually will get caught first and you still have another trap at the same set for an additional catch.

Only works with traps on drags though.

a weind up clock in a can used it a few times for yotes who dug me out or where real shy.......put a small weind up clock in a small tin cigar box or other and buary it bed your trap solid on top of it and leave...a good freind taught me that and didnt beleive it till i tryed it....way figure it wors is the tick tick makes the yote pounce right n the pan

Polo as a coyote lure? Does it only catch the bit females?

Now that's funny! The ones I caught were males...makes you wonder though!

How many use wasp nest as a lure holder or even as an attractor at a set? Anyone?

Not me, not a huge fan of being stung! (just kidding)

I will use whatever I can grab at the set that will hold lure better than just pouring it in a hole or on a rock. I dug some holes for coon today and used sticks, old bark, corn cob, and wadded up dead leaves.

When using 330S,Completely submerged,Stick a cattail stem or pencil sized limb in front of trap spring,deepenough in the mud so the current wont move it but the spring will when the trap fires. On footholds for cat prop up a log or pole so that when a critter gets caught it will knock down the pole,you still need to go up and check the set closely every few days,but this will save you going out of the way to check empty traps.

If you have to wash Cats,yotes or most anykind of fur,one way to get the fur dry faster,this works,I do it all the time. Pop the hide several times to get loose water out. Run a piece of cord or wire through the eyeholes and hang up,a tree limb or swing st works good,take a leaf blower and bowem dry. On heavy skins like,beaver or coyote, I only do a couple at a time,on fox and cats,I have bown down 5 or 6 at a time. I know,sounds crazy but it works good.