(Ok, so I stole the idea from the Alaskans...)

This is a thread that I would like to start for all the mole trappers out there on the ADC, as well as other trapping forums. I have noticed in the year that I have been on here, that there has been a great interest in mole trapping but it seems to get bounced around and eventually fades into oblivion...

There are some great mole trappers on here to be sure. Jameson, Barkstone, Albano, Moley (in the UK)...just to name a few. Some new innovations in trap design,(Albano's new mole trap), mole poisons, as well as techniques in catching them. Much of what we know can benefit those who follow in our footsteps. I invite all of you to join in with photos (and maybe even some short films) in your daily mole runs. A lot can be learned from how you set up a service contract, choose the best places to set traps over others, different techniques for soil conditions, etc. I hope to hear from everyone on here who pursue the mighty mole as a livelihood.

A few photos from today's run!


Case of 50 ready to go. The number one trap I use.








Always puts a smile on my face...."Come on, be there...Yes!"


Victor spear traps...Don't use as many of these. I know many trappers like them...even some even prefer them. I'm not one of them, although I used them for years.
Re-painted with "Kentucky chrome"!



I set up even small jobs heavy. I have killed moles even before I got done setting the last trap.



NO-MOL trap...Yeah, I use a few dozen of them at times.

You da man General Grey. :)You have come a long way over the years pilgrim.

I like those spear traps that use steroids.. They sure drive them home dont they.

You may have noticed the Formula 1 on those Victor O-S_O traps. I really like it on them and plan to show how I do them here in the future. Some will require some trigger scraping but work well after that and handle the damp weather conditions real well. We've had over 19" of rain this spring...."Enough all ready"!

Yes I knew that. I use it on all mine as well and treat the spear plate and spears with it as well.

Like everyone here, I use all the popular ones. O.O.S., no-mol, and even ordered some of Steve's new traps. What I'm curious about is what everybody prefers and why. Where do the different ones shine?

Hi everyone I just mole trap around our yard and have caught 19 moles so far in o-o-s's and nash loop traps. I am consistent with both but use loop traps more because of ease of setting. I do have a question on how people set the out o sites. Do you dig it out and then cover it back up or can you just stick in the ground like with nash traps? So far I have dug them out then covered them back up and have done well but was just wondering how you guys set em.

I'd like to see how someone uses a Nash trap! I've never set one but have a few that people gave me....How 'bout it mole trapper?
19 in one yard? You're mole poor!

Hey Jameson, Give us a few pics on "your techniques" on those spear traps when you get a chance, will ya?

I will try and get a program together today. I am off to check my traps in my nursery area in a little while and see if I connected with Steves traps.

My compliments to LT on an excellent choice of topics!

We do about half and half moles and gophers, with a few voles and other things thrown in as well. I have also been a die hard Out-o-Sight user. I've used that trap for 16 years, with great success.

Hey LT, exactly what kind of paint is that you're using. That sure would make it a lot easier to find a trap when a coon has dragged off a mole with trap attached. I gotta start doing that.

I took LT's advice on the orange paint last year too. I stake mine down so coons were'nt the issue. It was the, apparently, blind mower drivers on the golf course. Even painting them and putting white and orange survey flags next to them I still lose a few. Maybe the guys just a mole hugger.

I have most of the current mole traps on the market & use them all in the right places that warrent them. I do not how ever use the victor spear trap to much because of libility reasons,just me. My go to trap is the Nash Loop. Works well here with my soil conditions & is fast to set. The draw back is if your using numbers they take up a lot of space because of it's size. I like the under ground traps in places where I think I will have a problem with some one taking them or a high traffic area.

I have found out yself that those orange flags don't always help. A Nash Loop makes a lot of noise coming out the side of a 3 blade 46" cut deck. cer-chunk-chunk-chunk.

Well LT GREY with the nash traps when you compress the springs the 2 loops come out the bottom that you push into the mole tunnel. The trigger two set off the trap is about the same as an out o site. I hope this clarifies it a little bit. If I have time I will post some pics of my catches.

Lt Grey I commend you it has been along time since I have seen you post such an informative thread and its just getting started.

I have never trapped moles but there is a good need for mole trapping here in the "GRASS SEED CAPITAL OF THE WORLD". The critters mounds tend to break the cutter bars on the swathers and that is expensive to the farmers. They pay pretty good to get rid of them. This is a continuous commitment that I have not had time for but plan on doing some in the near future. I could use all the information I can get on "Mole Trapping".
Nineteen inches of rain is a good start for Sping. We do not have good soil, mostly clay base and that may make a difference in the type of trap??????
I have seen set-gun types also. Do not think they are legal though.

I have got to figure the out o sight trap out. I have caught lots and lots of moles using mostly spears and EZ set traps. I only own 1 out o sight trap and have never caught a mole in it. I would like to figure it out and buy a bunch more as they will take up less room than the other traps. I know how to catch moles,,just not with the out o sight. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks,,,Rickey

I posted an invitation on a British forum to see if any mole trappers from the UK want to compare techniques. Hopefully some of the lads will be along shortly. There's a long tradition of mole trapping in the UK, and some of those guys really know what they're doing. And they have some interesting traps.

Not much of a mole trapper here, though I almost always get the mole or two I'm after. I would like to here more on the service contracts as we don't seem to have the ongoing mole problems others are reporting.
Typical job down here is brand new activity in a small yard. Catch your one or two moles all activity ceases and no recurring problems.
We do have moles down here but they seem to prefer sticking to the woodlands. It's only the one that ventures into the lawns that get our attention.

The first step in setting a spear trap is lubrication. This allows less drag through the soil upon firing and better penetration into the animal for a clean fast kill.Also make sure your tines remain as straight and as sharp as possible. The needle point type spear points I find to be the better trap. The shear point I dont believe is as good as the older model.



The spikes when they are fully coated and ready for setting.





Probing the tunnel to determine use, depth and tunnel direction.



Marking the tunnel direction prior to setting the trap position in relation to the tunnel run.



Positioning the trap legs to straddle the run and ensureing the trap tines will penetrate the needed depth to pierce the tunnel completely and continue to pass thru the bottom of the tunnel to allow a good strike and to allow complete penetration of the mole.



Clearing a pilot shaft for each spear tine to follow without any obstruction or drag of the tines upon firing thru the soil.



Trap setting is now completed. One test fire is always done to guarantee a metal clang noise is established.If the clang is not heard then you need to reopen the tine passages once again and reset and fire again. If a thud noise is heard the trap is encountering too much resistance and it will not function properly to allow for a good clean kill and capture.

Once the trap legs are anchored to the proper depth to allow the tine plate to be pushed into the mole run this is the time I run the dandelion tool down each tine to open a good passage. Be careful not to move the anchor legs too much as this may effect the strike force of the tine plate and cause a poor catch or miss.

These are the tools I use for spear trap work and I also use the dandelion tool to cut my jaw path for the O/S traps as well. This tool serves different purposes for me. Opening the mole runs for inspection, mole removal after capture and to cut pilot holes and jaw paths for each trap.

Ok Lt thats what I do with spear traps.

Good info Bob Jameson,,,Rickey

Here we do about 5 mole jobs to 1 gopher job. O.o.s. is my "go to" mole trap in most cases. I started using Steves gopher trap about 2 months ago and it is, with out a doubt, the best gopher trap I've ever used, bar none. About a month ago I ordered a dozen of his mole traps and after using them on quite a few jobs we talked on the phone a bit discussing how they performed and we both felt that they needed a bit of "tweeking" and after he had done some retooling he sent me a dozen of the new ones. I'am happy to say in my humble opnion his mole trap blows all the rest of the "in ground" traps out of the water. I have had no snapped empty traps or no plugged traps at all. When they are tripped there is a dead mole in it every time. They won't take the place of my o.o.s.'s but in places where I need a in line trap that's the one I'll be using. For you guys that use a below ground trap such as the no-mole do yourself a favor and try some of Steves traps I think you'll be really pleased.

Bob

I have over 300 NoMol's , it is my trap of choice.

Just got some traps from Steve....can't wait to bury them.


Don't worry Steve , when people want to bury your product , it's all good.....Except for Mr. Mole....LOL !!!

Ahh man, How will I ever get any work done now? I have mole traps in 3 counties to run today... and here I am , reading Jameon's post... I love it!

Hey Bob, can you down side those photos any? They're runnin' off the screen!



Steve, All my traps are dipped 3 times in Formula 1 , once dry, they are painted with the brightest floresant orange paint I can find. Then, the bottom half is re-dipped in Formula 1 again. Occasionally I may have to scrape a trigger or two...and yes, the 'coons seemed to like to drag off a caught mole, trap and all, so this makes them easier to locate most times. Hey Jameson...any mole scented'coon baits in the works? Ha!

LT,,do you dig to install the OS traps or do you set them into the run without digging? Thanks,,,Rickey

I figured I wouldnt make you use your trifocals today.

I have done it both ways. Depending on soil conditions,(Moisture content), soil types, grass/root thickness and depth of run...and no one can explain what I mean better than Bob Jameson!

Has any of the UK mole trappers or anyone tried the Duffus tunnel trap? I've read some good reviews from [url=http://www.warrenfarm.co.uk/trapreview.htm ]

They seem to be a common trap in the UK, but for some reason, I can't find a supplier in the US. If they worked well, I'd pay the extra shipping to get them here.

Let me know if anyone has worked with these,
Thanks,
Ryan

Why not just order them from the U.K. ?

Ryan, I had some Duffus traps shipped over from the UK a few years back, and didn't get very far with them, though I later found out I wasn't placing them right. I was filling up the tunnel like an out of sight set, and then pushing the set Duffus trap into that blockage. Found you you should set the duffus into an opened up section of tunnel, with the roof of the trap forming a sort of artificial burrow, and then filter in some loose dirt over the set trap.

I actually had a couple more duffus made by the Flatpack co arrive today from a guy over there who swapped me for a couple of the traps I manufacture, so I'm all charged up to get out and give them another go.

A lot of guys in the UK swear by those traps.

As far as I know there is not US distributor for them, and shipping them in from the UK is a bit pricey, but not out of the question.

Let me know what you think of the Duffus' when you try them out.

Another question for everyone. Do you charge the customer when you catch a vole? And what is Formula 1 that LT talks about dipping on his o.o.s. traps?

That would depend on how you base your pricing, and if you are clear on your pricing BEFORE you start a job. Voles frequently use mole tunnels for travel and feeding purposes, but in many of those cases the voles are not causing the damage that the property owner "sees". Voles definitely dig tunnels and create above-ground runways in the grass, and I do a lot of vole trapping programs (without moles involved).

If you're one of the people who apply "per animal" charges, you would need to have that very clear in your printed or written info if you are going to charge for voles. However, if you are using OOS or harpoon mole traps, you're not going to catch voles. I have caught them in NoMols (often intentionally) but vole trapping is done with mouse traps (Snap-E's prefered).

Taking this a step further..... would you charge for a shrew? Shrews are a very effective predator for vole elimination, so by charging for the shrew (also a "non-target" when trapping moles) you are in fact charging money to remove a BENEFICIAL animal. It gets a bit difficult when trying to decide.

I guess that's another reason I have standard pricing "by the job" and don't care if it's one or 20 moles...same cost. Based on distance to site, size of area, and duration of program. Customer knows it up front, everyone's happy. They are also aware that future mole activity WILL happen eventually, and that will require another program (usually shorter time period).

Well said Ron.

Hi Steve
Thanks for the invite just registered thought I would say hello,Started pestiing with my grandad at the age of seven in the South Wales Valleys United Kingdom,done everything from fox to rat moles.
See your traps with intrest I tend to use Duffus,have 140 of this type and another type called TALPEX.
If I could put photos up I would show you

Heart of Wales, thanks for responding--it's great to hear from people who are catching moles with different tools that what are available here. We'd all love to see some pictures, and to post them here, you first have to put them on a photo hosting site like photobucket.com or imageshack.com, and then copy and paste the URL into the image feature of this forum. It's pretty easy, but alternatively, if you want to email me some pictures at albanstv@aol.com, I'd be happy to post them for you here.

The Duffus is completely different from any traps commonly used in the USA, however the Talpex is fairly similar to the Out-o-Sight traps LT Grey showed at the start of this thread. The outwards appearance is a little different, but the principle is that same.

Hey Bob J, and LT, would you guys have any objection to me re-posting some of your above photos to a British forum, and try to generate some more interest from some of the other guys in the UK?

Ok by me....always enjoy sharing trapping information with trappers across the globe.


Ryan75....I thought Bob Jameson would have responded, since he is the one I get Formula1 from. As many of you know, I have never liked "Trap Dips"....However, Formula1 is mixed with water NOT gasoline, as most are. I now use it for mole traps, water traps, kill traps and snares. Most of those will be also camo painted...the mole traps however are painted bright orange, that's to keep the mowers off them...(Well, it's supposed to work)

Fine by me Steve to post the photos.Is anyone else haveing problems with viewing my photos on my last post on spear traps.I am told there may be size problem like being too large.?

here you go pics of duffus traps
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u203/1fishat/2007_0210house0006-1.jpg

Heart of Wales, and Weasel, here's a picture of some moles in a trap that I've just started manufacturing. I'd be happy to send over some free samples if you want to give them a try. They're very small and light, so shipping is cheap. All I would ask in return is that you take some pictures, as it would be a thrill for me to see my trap in use in Wales or France. Thanks.

Steve, Can you post any step by step photos of how you set up a run,(both shallow and deep) with your new traps?.......that's what we're all dyin' to see!

I'll get some pics and a blow by blow commentary up tonight, LT. Sent you some traps the other day.

Hi Steve

Could you please send me some samples of the new mole trap, so I can try it.

Thanks

Art

Steve, I received some traps today.....The package had been opened...and appeared to have never been taped... Two traps inside though..(Right?)

It took me a bit to figure it out...but after a few tries, I fianally got it set right and sacraficed a #2 pencil into it's waiting jaws......SNAP!

Is this a big enough trap for Eastern moles? I know Bob is trying some out and I'm not sure which species you have in Cali, although, they look like ours on film. What keeps the mole from pushing the trap, once he feels it? Does he just disregard it as a root perhaps, and move on through?

In any event, thank you for sending me these and they will be in the ground tomorrow.

Here are some pictures from some setups from yesterday and today...

This first photo shows some superficial feeding tunnels in a lawn area. These tunnels are the reason the client called, but probably aren't the best place to set the traps. You could set them here, but best to check around and see what else you can find first.

Same yard as first photo, about 10 feet away from lawn, there is a very shady and damp area with a long wall running the length of the front of the property. There's about a 99% chance that there's going to be a somewhat deeper travel tunnel along the base of that wall. No signs of activity on the surface, because the tunnel has been in constant use for a long time, and all surface signs washed away long ago. This is a great place for a set up.



OK, here's the basic set with my traps. Just dig out a 4 or five inch segment of the tunnel, and place set traps both directions in the exposed tunnels. Push the traps into the tunnels at least far enough that the trigger pan is inside the tunnel. If you keep a finger against the back of the trigger pan, you can prevent the traps from firing as you push them in. Usually I can get them far enough in that the spring on the back of the trap is half way or all the way into the tunnel. Bed the trap into the soil a bit by pushing down on the spring or the spring catch on the back of the trap. Finally, block off the exposed end of the tunnel behind the trap with a dirt clod or compacted mud ball, and filter loose soil over set to exclude light.



Another good setup location. These are brand new tunnels in a flower bed that had just been worked and watered in preparation for some new plantings. The moles moved right in. There were obvious fresh signs on the surface, unlike the deeper travel tunnel shown next to wall in above photos. But I like setting on straight tunnels along walkways or other obstacles.

And what's that green thing at the top of the picture?



Oh, run for your lives, moles, the evil molechaser is going to get you. I catch moles right next to these things all the time.

LT, yes, just the two I sent. I don't know why your box was opened, but those priority mail boxes aren't supposed to be taped. They just close up with some a adhesive glue strip built into the box.

I'm pretty sure the trap is big enough for eastern moles, though I'd like to get feedback on that. The space between the front tines is actually a tad larger than the space between the uprights on a no-mol, so I think the size should be OK. But if it seems small to you, let me know.

Art, sure, I'll get a couple of samples to you soon.

Steve, Set the traps this morning. I tried to "snug it up" inside the tunnel, as much as possible. I am interested in how you know they're fired. Do you just dig them up everytime you check? When I've used the No-Mols, that's what I always had to do. I would assume it's probably the same.

The point you made about "the tunnel being 99% deeper along the wall" is a great tip for newcomers, if they payed attention. That tip will make you some money and "save face" chasing these sometimes elusive moles, especially when it's just one that has been there some time and has a network of tunnels.

I've found that a key ring and 1/16th cale will make an excellent tie off, if used with an 1/4" rod.

yes you need to cross stake those traps.HA! You gotta be kidding me LT Grey.MMMMMMm maybe use a drag on a few too.:)

Whatever! Just post us how you're using those tools you had in the post with the saddleback shrew! (I always caught a lot of shrews in the No-Mols too.... They eat the dead moles think)!

Steve, I received 2 traps Thursday and set them Friday. Set them back to back as you suggested and followed the written instructions that you sent me (like above). These were set in deep tunnels in Missouri clay. Today I checked them. The traps were both sprung and the eastern mole filled them full of clay. I didn't see any signs of tunneling around the traps, it just looked like the mole was trying to push them out of the ground. Any suggestions?

Tonight is a great night to bring this thread over onto a conference call call with Steve Albano

Thanks for the link Robb. I could finally listen to the program. I couldn't figure out how to listen without registering. Very informative. Great Show!

Can't have "The Mighty Mole Trapper's Thread " without this :

http://whacamole.com/

Enjoy !

Interesting! Thanks Cragar

If I ever get a vendor booth at one of the annual association meetings, I think the old whack-a-mole could really pull in the foot traffic!

what would happen if you opened up a mole tunnel and place a set mouse trap with extra large pan in the way with no bait? Just kind of blind set it. Would it work?