Any unique ideas for doing this, I've use disposable stakes and locked them before. Just curious

If someone wants them bad enough they will get them. If not they may just decide to vandalize them in some way. It depends on whether it is just theft for the sake of stealing or venting their anti anger towards you.

I am sure staking them will help to discourage those that may not want to spend the time needed to get a trap free. It certainly would be a good idea to stake or tie off/lock etc. if theft is suspected. A positioned trap only isn't hard to cart away.

Surprisingly I have only lost one cage trap in 40 years of doing this. Lots of cases of damage to a trap. Mostly due to people not knowing how a door system works on a trap when releasing an animal.

We always T bar stake thru the trap top to stabilize our traps all the time just as a matter of policy and lessons learned. Found out years back before we converted to all spring fired and rear access doors. We were using some gravity trap doors that were popular for fur trappers and still are.

Just had one too many escapes from that occasional rolled over trap or doors that didn't completely close at times due to grass/weed growth or a branch that fell preventing a good door closure.

When in areas I think someone might see my trap as a opportunity to just grab and go

I use T-stakes and cross stake it right through the cage in the back
Most likely they will try in the dark and they will/have no idea how it is stuck to the ground. The only one I ever lost I think a nieghbor's took. I made a police report just in case it ends up set illegally somewhere

I chain/cable them to something solid with a padlock.

I had a couple Koro beaver traps swiped from me and they were chained and locked ....They must have cut the chains...as the chains were gone too and those are almost 400 dollar traps...Like Bob said if somebody wants them ..they will get them...they must have went back home to get cutters...who the (This word is unacceptable on Trapperman) carries bolt cutters through the woods ?

actually a t bar through the trap is a great way to stabilize...however if you get a skunk can make it tricky to get stake out without him spraying sometimes so take the t bar and push along the outside of the trap and the T part goes down against the trap to stabilize...then it is easier to move

You just need to have better bedside manner Josh to work with skunks don't you know. We don't move the cage.. They go to sleep before we remove the animal. Clean it out and reset. We cover all our traps with folding covers after setting them.

As stated if they want it bad enough they'll get it. I like to run trail cams on my jobs when I have a gut feeling about leaving cages.

U know how big i am right? Animals immediately intimidated by me. I use a iowa state cyclone blanket to cover a caught skunk since i am a hawkeye fan...that way if i have a skunk that sprays i have 2 things that stink

Now that's funny.

You just have to make yourself look smaller when you approach. Walk towards them sideways like John Wayne used to do.

Use trap dip so they arent so easy to spot. Put some sticks over it too.

Giving some thought to setting your traps where they may be less obvious to others is always good sense or having to set to far off your needed location. Of course blending your traps as much as is reasonable is also a good idea in areas of concern.

Lots of things to consider when setting traps in domestic settings. Also the concern as to what damage they will do to the lawn,landscape or other materials located within reach of the trapped animal. We make the customer responsible for our property.

Yep have had a few insist I should put the trap on their deck because that is where that raccoon always is

Heard of a couple times when other companies put the trap rigt on the roof. Shingles everywhere

Charge the customer