I am old and foolish but sure like finding the untouched, get some real big ones in there, 1 mile in is about my limit. What is the curved knife you like?

I use the Dexter Russel beaver knife. It is inexpensive, but easy to sharpen and has a good curve. Trapper Les has another he uses which I think is a Green river...

Those beaver have glacier silt deposits In the fur. That's what's causing the matting. My son In Law has a few hides like that and I can't see anyway how you could get them out.

I trapped the claybelt for a few seasons and some of the beaver had hard mats deep in the underfur.I had never seen that before in the northcountry(mushkego).I asked the trappers what caused it and they said it was clayballs from the fine clay silt in the water.

My beaver out here throw up dust after put up no matter what I do. Can never get then clean. Like shaking out a welcome mat.

Blow the fur with a shop vac after drying.Its surprising all the dust that comes out of a dry beaver pelt.

ttt

Ok, this wouldn't be complete without feedback on how the fur graded. I only sent a small amount up to auction this time so I do know exactly how some of these graded (FHA).

1. Coyote: 3x-2x Select Semi B
2. Grey fox: 1x-LG I-II Semi Med
3. Red fox: 1x-Lg I-II C
4. Beaver:1x Slt DG XDK-Brn
Remember, I said the beaver would likely grade damaged due to the bite scars down by the tail?
5. Opossum: 4x-3x I-II
6. Skunk: 2x II & SLT
My skunks almost always grade poorly. Best I can come up with is that they are not prime when I get them. They all tend to have thin skin and a lot of flea bites. Hair on them is not really nice either, compared to what I see coming out of other states.
7. Mink: Male: 1x-lg Select XDK-DK
Female: 1x-lg Select XDK-DK
8. Muskrat: Honestly, I can't say because I sent too many in. I have all sorts of grades from I-II Semi to I-II SLT DMG (all 3x-2x this year). Understand too that having damaged rats, just like the beaver, often doesn't have anything to do with the put up. Some rats get bitten and have scars.
9. Raccoon: same, I sent several so it is hard to know which was what. Grades were good as they can be considering the type of raccoon we have here. I think I showed the one that graded 3x Select A-B above next to one that graded 5x-4x GD SLT D...(3x is next to the two mink on the boards, 5x is next to another coon and the two foxes)

I know this is a down year, but once they sell I will post prices too.

Skunks prime really late. Late winter and Spring skunks are your best. And the stripe configuration also makes a difference In how your skunks grade.

Beav, that is what I figured. Unfortunately around here any late skunks I get are always rubbed and the white turns very yellow. Most here tend to den underground which seems to be quite rough on them.

Just realized that I didn't include section/region of the grades.

Ok prices. Understand that this is a down year...
Coyote: $30, which is typical for our easterns. Bad color and wire haired. This was a good coyote by the standards around here (except for the color), but can't compare to a western.
Red and grey fox were no sale.
Beaver: $10.50
Opossum: $5, did better than rats lol. Too bad no top lot awards for possum... I try and only put up the good ones.
Skunk: no sale
Mink: Male $16.50, top lot. Female was $7.50
Muskrat: Average just under $3. Best and worst didn't sell.
Raccoon: all no sale

Again, prices are bad this year. I can't imagine trying to sell poorly handled fur in a down market.

Frost scraped and frost dried fall skunk(didn't want to dry it inside).

I'd like to try the frost scraping some time, but it almost never gets cold enough here. This winter especially. Do you have trouble going too deep and hitting the roots when you frost scrape a skunk? The early ones can be tough in that regard when done over a beam.

Skunk is mostly fat so it scrapes very easy.I usually do mine outside in the spring on a beam,and dry in the shed.
I found that one in bottom of freezer when digging out the bear hide so I thought I would try the frost scrape and dry.
It seems to be mostly grease free no problem with the hair roots.

Thanks. I agree they scrape easily, just the early ones can be easily overdone. I start getting them in October in canine sets and they are a long way from prime then.

Lay your skunks on top of your beam when fleshing that way the hide Is cushioned. And try and keep your fleshing knife a lot flatter when your removing that fat.

Try melby fur conditioner it works good for getting fur thats matted with blood untangled. Give it a try and see if it works.

I'll have to try that. Like the coons, on skunks it is mostly pushed off with the dull side. However, I agree the angle still matters.

Nice fur ! Excellent handling, all trappers should strive to be excellent fur handlers like yourself. I lay my mink on top of my beam and flesh from tail to head first and then reverse. Protects hair roots and easier to control fat. The fat under the saddle sqweejeez out easier.

These were layed on top of beam like Beav describes for skunk. Lay your fleshing knife flat with light pressure and the saddles come off mostly without damageing hair roots. If the saddle doesn't come off easy sqweeze all the fat you can from them and leave the saddle. Hey Fingertrapper do your mink grade northern or north central? Mine are a mix.