What state are you in? Should have that in
Your location. I would get a few more years of trapping
Under your belt first, And read read read.

Go back in the archives and read about the live trap. Just stay away from the cheap ones. I think most everyone only uses traps from 4 different Co. once they get started. Always remember you get what you pay for. Instead of buying two junk traps when starting by one good one because it will last. JMO. Read,Read,Read.

I would be slow to buy things. Buy as you go and save the money until you need something. Youd be surprised how much stuff you think you "need" sits in the corner. Maybe, if you feel you should, or so you can practice more, buy another trap. I would get another coon size trap, that way you can use it for coon or skunk.

A big question is, do you want to be a TRAPPER or a WILDLIFE CONTROL OPERATOR, there is, as most of us learned by doing, a big difference. That difference will dictate what you buy.

I like it when the young guys get interested.

You have the right idea about starting trapping for friends but add family and neighbors in that as well. Get as much experience as you can.

My recommendation would be to buy traps one at a time from a company like http://www.wildlifecontrolsupplies.com/ That way you will be getting equipment that will work and last. Safeguard and Tomahawk would be my suggestion.

Since you like chipmunks, start there. Add squirrel traps as you can afford them. Add one or two raccoon sized cages when you can afford them and you will be good to go.

Try to keep your traps in use. Even if you are not getting paid the traps that are in the field and set will provide an education that can't be had any other way.

Don't let yourself get over worked or overwhelmed. Set you schedule to your interest level and enjoy the experience.

Are u having anyone help like a parent or doing,it,on your own

Just make sure you keep an adult like your in the loop on all jobs. Someone who can look for trouble and make sure you are being safe and that the jobs are safe.

Although I dont really like the "Per animal" method, you should do per animal due to experience, there is less pressure to perform, no one can be outraged by the price.

I know, I know, I said dont buy gear until you need it. BUT

I recommend finding out if you have gophers or moles in your area. A couple reasons, they easy to trap, but not everyone knows how or will try. A lot of people will buy a coon trap throw some tuna in it and get a coon, not everyone feels comfortable prodding and finding underground tunnels. Second, its safer. No handling live animals, no roofs, no crawlspaces, just grass. It may not seem as glamorous as big coons, but its pretty good. Also, you want to trap for family and friends, That might be a dozen houses or so. You are really just hoping one out of them has an actual problem. Presence of animals like skunks, squirrels and coon is not a problem, but presence of moles and gophers is.

I have only trapped a few, but i like in the tunnel traps a lot more than any other. You will hear his name anytime people talk moles, Steve Albano makes great gopher and mole traps. traplineproducts.com. If for some reason you wanted to go with something else, Nomol mole traps are a little cheaper, and you can find Macabee gopher traps in most stores. In my opinion moles are great to start with.

First thing I would do is be very aware of your state wildlife laws as in what you can and can't do as a wo, make a list of questions you are unsure of and note them, ask the instructor who is giving the exam, they should be able to give you the answer on the spot. Although the internet has a lot of truth it's a double edged sword as well, nothing worse than gearing up for something and ready to execute, then run into legal problems. Wouldn't be a bad idea on seeking out a well known trapper with a good reputation who will be willing to mentor you as needed, help is always needed no one has all the answers and if they tell you they do their lying, I call them type of people "google posters". For a trap I'd recommend safeguard I find no problems with them at all, personally I like using single door rear release stock no mods and have no issues with multiple catches or coons unlatching the rear door like some people claim, and if it did ever happen it's nothing that a piece of wire couldn't fix, but it's preference. If you have the money to spend on 175 to 200 dollar cage traps a whack just starting out god bless ya. Famous quote "I'm not an expert but" It's a good idea to become well rounded in the whole "trade" but being efficient at them will greatly benefit you a lot more. This site is filled with good information and some good people. If you're planning on doing beaver work with hancock and Bailey traps be careful on buying used, some people swap out the springs for an inferior spring. I wish you success in your project.

Yeah, the price for one is insane considering you can pick up a dozen of 330's for the price of one bailey. I'm not sure of your state laws but in mass most of the beaver work is done with permits using 330's the pro to a Bailey trap is, in some towns you aren't always able to obtain a permit for a 330 so live catch is needed. Most guys won't bother, that means there's room for you to make a little more money for whatever the reason. Just be sure you wear ya helmet when you first start using them, if ever.