Dog Proofs vs cages.
#4643281
09/11/14 04:24 PM
09/11/14 04:24 PM
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 188 California
Throw Back
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OP
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Posts: 188
California
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I am getting ready for a coon job, and from what I understand the woman has cage shied the coons. I was going to throw out 4 dog proofs, but wonder what you guys think about them for adc.
Last edited by Throw Back; 09/14/14 12:52 PM.
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Re: Dog Proofs vs cages.
[Re: Throw Back]
#4643439
09/11/14 06:23 PM
09/11/14 06:23 PM
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,361 mequon, wisconsin
Paul Winkelmann
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Throw Back, I'm really not the right guy for this question but that never stopped me before. I don't own a dog proof and never have,
although they are perfectly legal everywhere in our state. My big thing is to do my job well, but keep a low profile. I don't feel
that dog proofs fit that description. ( And, of course, now that I said that, you know I'm going to need them ) Anyway, we have so
many different style cage traps that we've been able to take even the smartest raccoon simply by switching cages.
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Re: Dog Proofs vs cages.
[Re: Monster Toms]
#4643761
09/11/14 09:47 PM
09/11/14 09:47 PM
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 188 California
Throw Back
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You know, I have to call the department. After reading all 187 unclear pages of the regulations they dont appear to be. The little old lady at Fish and Wildlife said she thought they would be considered a coni under 6 inches, when they are really classified as a foothold. No one knows the trapping laws in this state and its becomming a headache. Too bad I just bought 4 traps I cant use.
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Re: Dog Proofs vs cages.
[Re: Throw Back]
#4643875
09/11/14 10:45 PM
09/11/14 10:45 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 25,634 Georgia
warrior
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What are some things you guys do to lure in those cage shy coons? Look up some of the podcasts that Jonesie did on the subject.
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Re: Dog Proofs vs cages.
[Re: Throw Back]
#4644229
09/12/14 09:59 AM
09/12/14 09:59 AM
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,361 mequon, wisconsin
Paul Winkelmann
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,361
mequon, wisconsin
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Throw Back, the last trap-shy coon I caught by running a handful of lured mini-marshmallows through a Comstock.
Caution: Do not use the large beaver sized Comstocks. You'll spend all day releasing kids.
Last edited by Paul Winkelmann; 09/12/14 10:18 AM.
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Re: Dog Proofs vs cages.
[Re: Paul Winkelmann]
#4644880
09/12/14 05:56 PM
09/12/14 05:56 PM
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 188 California
Throw Back
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OP
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Throw Back, the last trap-shy coon I caught by running a handful of lured mini-marshmallows through a Comstock.
Caution: Do not use the large beaver sized Comstocks. You'll spend all day releasing kids. I got mallows in voo doo coon lure now
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Re: Dog Proofs vs cages.
[Re: warrior]
#4646141
09/13/14 07:36 PM
09/13/14 07:36 PM
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 188 California
Throw Back
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I don't. I can see some tender heart/soft head getting their butt in a sling over a trapped critter in one of bone crushing, foot chopping off traps and trying to pet or release the poor dear. I explained to her the difference between the steel jaw and dog proof, and put my finger in one to show her. My finger hurts tho.
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Re: Dog Proofs vs cages.
[Re: Jonesie]
#4646628
09/14/14 06:41 AM
09/14/14 06:41 AM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,785 Georgia
Kirk De
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Now I am going to tell you that what I use is the best in the world if we are at a show, but here I am going to say, get the critter thinking on the baits or lures and wanting them outside of the trap and they will forget about the trap that is the ticket. By the way 80% will go right in. 10 % will make you cuss a little and the last 10% will make me cuss a lot and throw things. This is just my thoughts could be wrong. Wendall Reeves told me about a large coon that was cage shy. The coon work the trap circling-even climbing on the 12x16x28 cage he was using, but would not go in. He could tell the coons focus was on the bait inside. He placed a double doored trap between the house and the trap (with no bait or lure) the coon had been circling. He caught the coon that night. I have caught beaver many a time in traps whether they are conibears, snares, or cage traps with the bait placed in the center with the traps place to where the beaver is caught circling and not paying attention. It is the same principle. The exception is that with a cage the animal acts as a decoy for the next animal as long as the cages are set properly. Example: Set three large-tall double door traps in the shape of a triangle right out in the water at a level of 4-8". Place a fake caster mound in the middle of the triangle formed by the cages. Use no bait in the cages. You catch one, you,ll probably catch another. If the traps are tall the beaver won,t climb over, but circle and go in.
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Re: Dog Proofs vs cages.
[Re: Kirk De]
#4646916
09/14/14 12:57 PM
09/14/14 12:57 PM
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 188 California
Throw Back
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OP
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Now I am going to tell you that what I use is the best in the world if we are at a show, but here I am going to say, get the critter thinking on the baits or lures and wanting them outside of the trap and they will forget about the trap that is the ticket. By the way 80% will go right in. 10 % will make you cuss a little and the last 10% will make me cuss a lot and throw things. This is just my thoughts could be wrong. Wendall Reeves told me about a large coon that was cage shy. The coon work the trap circling-even climbing on the 12x16x28 cage he was using, but would not go in. He could tell the coons focus was on the bait inside. He placed a double doored trap between the house and the trap (with no bait or lure) the coon had been circling. He caught the coon that night. I have caught beaver many a time in traps whether they are conibears, snares, or cage traps with the bait placed in the center with the traps place to where the beaver is caught circling and not paying attention. It is the same principle. The exception is that with a cage the animal acts as a decoy for the next animal as long as the cages are set properly. Example: Set three large-tall double door traps in the shape of a triangle right out in the water at a level of 4-8". Place a fake caster mound in the middle of the triangle formed by the cages. Use no bait in the cages. You catch one, you,ll probably catch another. If the traps are tall the beaver won,t climb over, but circle and go in. I will try this. I am going to have to buy a double door, and to think I thought I might make money on this job :S
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Re: Dog Proofs vs cages.
[Re: Jonesie]
#4647117
09/14/14 05:03 PM
09/14/14 05:03 PM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,785 Georgia
Kirk De
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A coon working the trap is not cage shy but cage smart. There is a big difference. That coon type you mentioned Kirk is either cage smart or dumb as snot. Eric Arnold and I talked for at least 2 hours one night not long ago on baiting cages. The way a person baits a cage can cause the coon to work the back sides, back and top of a cage rather than the front. By a simple baiting technique change they can get those coon to the front of the trap. the dumb go right in, the smart will still play with me unless I get them thinking about other things. A trap smart coon knows what is going on with a cage. they know what is the norm. one of the tricks I do with the above mentioned type of coon is simply turn the trap around so the open door is now where the back of the trap was and put the bait there where it was and some inside the back. Most people only bait the back of a trap, so why wouldn't the coon go to the back of a trap. If you ever watch a coon work a cage that is baited only in the back they will most of the time go to the downwind side of the trap and wind the bait. If they want the bait or lure then they will work the trap from that spot because that is where the bait is. Now I am going to shut up now because Paul tells me I give out too much info for free and I don't want him yelling at me any more. The trap Wendall was using was this trap. It was designed purposely years ago to catch a circling coon (basically designed to do what you described but the trap does not need to be turned around). By a double doored trap between the house and this trap the circling coon would be after the bait at both ends leading him into the double doored trap. Here is a beaver set with the lure only in the large cage. The beaver can get to the back of the large cage where the lure is by going through the double doored cage with no lure in it. That is how he got caught. Same principle as above. The double doored trap Wendall caught the coon with was a 10x12x30 swingdown doored fast door trap.
Last edited by Kirk De; 09/14/14 05:29 PM. Reason: more information.
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Re: Dog Proofs vs cages.
[Re: Throw Back]
#4650319
09/16/14 11:47 PM
09/16/14 11:47 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 56 Frankfort, Ky. USA
trapperpaw
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Posts: 56
Frankfort, Ky. USA
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That double trap of Kirk's is effective and efficient. If I was going to use dog proofs I would set them in pairs. The coon will pull both of them greatly limiting his ability to do further damage. I use them ocasionally but for the most part they are not the best tool in our situations. I wouldn't feel bad about having 4 of them in my tool box but I wouldn't put my finger in one to demonstrate how they work. That hurts thinking about it. If you get the WCT magazine Ron wrote a very good article on baits and lures that I think it will help you with trap smart coons.
Sleep'n with an animal..I can help. Do not use both feet when testing the depth or temperature of the water Your Friend, Paul Brooker
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