Had nothing but success over the last few years using DP's when the time & location was right. Make my own baits and just switched to a sweet dry mix (catfood, corn etc) that doesn't include mini marshmallos (heat) and last night had two of my three catches pullout. Racking my brain to find a reason. Anyone found that a larger bait above the trigger results in a deeper catch? These were almost new Duke & Bridger DP's so no weekness in spring. I'm wondering if I was getting a premature trip as they were pulling some out rather than diggin under the trigger for the last few bites? The one I did hold was deep caught just like all of them have been up till now.

Thanks for any experiences,
HJ

How were the 2 pull-outs anchored? The pull-outs I've experienced all have been tethered to trees or brush with extension cables. They wrapped up and where able to put pressure on the spring when they pulled, thus freeing them IMO.

The DP's you are using are pull only - I can't see why bait size above the trigger would have any bearing on catch quality??

Had one tethered to a 4" tree and one on a 12ft forcked limb as a big drag.

Junkie I've been running Duke dps for 5 years now and I can't remember any pullouts. I always connect mine with a quick linc and chain to trees and have never seen it affect them either. I know my coons aren't nearly as big as Northern coons and that may make a difference.

I've got 18 dp traps and have caught just under 400 coon and possum with them and have no complaints.

North40.... If it was me I'd edit that 1st sentence of that post this is an open forum... Just a suggestion

Better?

Yes sir! Thank you!

Thanks Justin, You sound just like my wife and I guess that's why she's the President and I'm the janitor.

Dry pellets and dog food type baits are more likely to have more miss problems and pull outs then paste type baits under the trigger system. Just enough bait to cause interest is all that is needed. I wont use dry particle baits for that reason.
Too much bait in the cylinder can cause poor catches as the paw is not deep enough in the trap particularly in push/pull type designs.

i use mini marshmallows with anise extract dripped in use a dish wash sponge make a small hole in a little piece
slide up on the trigger a little bit . sponge holds the anise and can,t be pulled off without setting trap off. i never put marshmallows above trigger,. i put some on the ground to attract coon.never a pull out.

Amazing! Not sure what's going on but I do appreciate the feedback. I was suspecting they just weren't caught deep enough but now I'm wondering. Pullouts were never an issue anchored to small trees and with 3 swivels never had a problem before today...was thinking that maybe they were setting it off getting the stuff on top. Switched to marshmallow last night just to see and had another pullout. DP was on a 12ft limb as a drag. You can see where he wrapped up some in the limb but doesn't look like enough to put any super amount of leverage on the trap. I just don't think they're getting caught deep enough.

HJ

x2 what Bob J said and x2 what bridog said when using longer cable to trees. I don't think when using chain to a tree that the coon can get the same type of wrap pressure on the spring as it can with cable, may be wrong though, Also a piece of leather in the bottom with a good taste or food lure on it works very well.

Possible issues: mechanical, obstructions, trigger, leverage, baiting technique, outside interference.

Mechanical: I'd swap out the suspect traps and test them back at the office. Use a 3/4 inch PVC pipe and as the "paw" and fire off the trap onto it. Now see how hard it is to pull the pipe out. It's easiest to put the DP in a vice to hold it in place so all that can move is the pipe. If the pipe pulls out easily, you some of your other traps and see if there is a difference or not. Springs do weaken based on use, type of trap prep done to them or you could have an manufacturing issue but if you don't test them, you can't rule this possibility out.

Obstructions: The most common obstruction, like Bob mentioned, is with the bait. However, other obstructions can occur as well based on surrounding conditions. If the DP gets knocked on it's side by deer, is set that way, or just falls over sticks, small stones or other debris can be knocked inside the trap (or for that matter fall into it if it right side up) which could prevent closing just enough to allow for a pullout.

Trigger: There are too possibilities with the triggers. If the traps have two way replacement triggers, the traps could be set off before the paw is far enough into the trap for a good capture. If the traps have a one way trigger you tend to get a deeper catch if there is nothing in the trap that can be hooked and pulled up to fire the trap. Although you said you didn't use marshmallows, it is a good example to think about with this problem. When a marshmallow gets wet, it's structural integrity changes into more of a blobish item that can be pulled on and stretched. While they still maintain some resistance, they don't have the same resistance as they do when they become slightly stale.

Leverage: I only use Sterling Lil-Griz DP's and almost had a pullout this year with a brand new trap. It was a 22 lb boar that was able to stand up and use it's size as leverage. The trap was attached to a tree with a 3 foot cable, but he was able to hook the base on some roots which shortened the distance he had to pull considerable. If he would have always tried pulling horizontally, he would have never gotten as far as being able to pull vertically (think of the root acting like the vise for testing the spring I've already talked about) as he was able to get his feet under him for additional leverage instead of behind him.

Baiting: I just covered an issue with marshmallows but again like Bob said, any type of pellet style bait (fish food, cat food, dog food, corn, shell fish, etc.) can interfere with the firing of the trap just like too much dirt or a stone can interfere with a foothold trap. My preferred baiting strategy is to install part of a tube worm over the trigger system and than use a liquid bait in the trap or a paste bait on the lip. This allows the raccoon to feel something down in the trap and grab a hold other than metal. I've had success without the tube worm as well and can't say it increases the catch when using a paste bait, but I can say it does matter for liquid style baits.

Outside Interference: While not likely, I do like to cover most of the possibilities. First possibility is that a person came by and interfered for whatever reason. Second, is that the trap could have been fired off by another animal like a mouse or chipmunk and was then "played with" by a raccoon or fox.

Thank you WCT for a very detailed response. I'm going to switch them to earth anchors in the wide open tonight rather than the drags or the tree tether to see if that makes a diff. I'll let ya know.

HJ

Dps should always be anchored away from entanglement as much as possible or leverage can be used for pullouts.

Entanglement can always be a problem. To much bait above the trigger is a big problem if using a 2 way as they are designed to get the animal while reaching for the bait, so you only need enough to cover the bottom of the tube. do not fill up to the trigger. I have seen to many fill the trap up to the top with bait. Another tip , always set the trap at an angle with the trigger down toward the ground. This does 2 things, it keeps the animal from misfiring the trigger and it also catches the animal with the restraint on the back of the pad. the reason I am saying this is that I had a customer get on video of a raccoon getting caught, rolling over on his back and hooking its back feet into the opening of the trap and grabbing the crossbar of the spring with its other front foot and releasing itself.

Nice! That's good info right there! I always do it but not conciously!

I have used duke dp traps ever since they came out with no problems.Last year I purchased the new Bridger DP's,Nothing but problems.Pullout after pullout.

I had one dp that was keep set off and moved. i got fish oil on the outside ot the trap and the coon was settting the trap off from the outside then getting food. i watch it happen to two traps in a barn i quit using. oils not had a problem since.
Michael

You have to bait trap and then set it. Different times I have seen a chunky locking trigger to were to were it wouldn't move. So bait trap, wiggle trigger, no bait above trigger, and then set it. This is on a pull only trigger. With a two way trigger you cannot fill to trigger with kibble or else you cannot push trigger.

Raymond F seems to have violated THE most important law of all. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Done it way too many times myself!

Mark Steck suggests putting sheep wool
Under trigger and then adding a all amount of bait. I've done that and it works
Similarly, we've used coarse ground fish in DPs along a river and had infrequent
Times when coon got bait without getting caught